ajsons

Here's my take on breaking the flare. I'll break it at the circled point shown on the previous attachment, and rotate the path 32 degrees inward.

There is a difference in the distances from the room corner between the old and the new SK's, as you can see from this picture. The "new" has to be 8" from the room corner. The "old", by design, pushes the enclosure forward by about half an inch. This is something to be aware of, I think. Also, the tailboard is 4" from the rear opening, and the distance between the wall and the rear opening corner is 3 1/2. In other words, the path went from 4 to 3-1/2 while its making a turn. I don't know if this has any negative impact but if I have to build a false corner, I'll pull the enclosure forward (into the room), to correct the expansion. But then again, the taiboard's angles/reflectors issue have to be taken care of first.

Chris, I have not heard from Dana in the last three weeks, neither have I seen a post from him in the last three weeks. Before he "disappeared", he sent me some horn literature and plans, mostly he wrote/designed himself, and they were very good. I'll send him an email to see how he's doing. Has anybody heard from Dana? Anyway, I sent you an email with a CAD drawing of the old SK bass bin attached. Maybe you can use it...cut and paste, trim, whatever. It was drawn actual size, using the 2002 version of AutoCAD. I have also a .dwg file of the new SK like what you have but it is slightly modified at the front assembly. I can send it to you if you are interested. Let me know. I think your idea is great. I wish I thought of it. I was thinking of getting rid of my SK's, but your idea changed my mind. I am thinking of the Hartsfield look. Your SK's don't have tailboards. I'm not a speaker building guru like Dana, but I know he'll agree with me on this one. The old SK's have tailboards, but they need to be Huygen's reflectors, like the Jubilee's. The exit angles are different, though. I think before you build your false corners, you have to decide on the correct reflectors' angles first. I tried, but can't come up with a good solution. You can try radius reflectors, as option B. The old SK's tailboards will be the least likely choice. And there are other things wrong with those tailboards. More to follow. (I need to figure out how to attach pictures using the new software). Armando

The 1829 has a 1-1/8" throat, usually mated to a larger midhorn such as the cobreflex III. Here's a quote from Gil and DJK from an old thread on the same subject. "I'm using 1828 drivers. They tested better than the 1824." (Gil Mcdermott) "Klipsch uses the predecessor of the DH2, the DH1506, in a couple of the pro models. The DH1506 had an aluminum dome with a kapton surround.The DH2 is all one piece titanium.It does not sound very good crossed at 400hz with a low order crossover.EV has been playing around with the thickness of the titanium on the DH2 for some time now. First they tried the thicker stuff of the DH1 and then the thinner stuff of the DH3 and now they have gone to something in the middle.None of them sound good.The newest is the best and I would not crossover at less than 800hz.For something that spins on to the K400 that sounds better than an 1824 I would get a DH1506.If you can't find a DH1506 I would get an 1829. While the throat size is a poor match for the K400 the 1829 still sounds great. Leave the cap plug on the rear exit.With some network tweaking I have been able to get the 1829 to measure +/- 1dB to 6.3Khz." (djk) I personally prefer the 1824M, the one usually paired with the 8HD and SM120, but it rolls off rapidly after 3.5khz. (Luckily, the T35 goes down to 3.5khz) I like the 1828 also, the throat is smaller, I don't know its high or low ends, and have only used it only on the EV (mailing tube horn) 848HF (a "technological dead-end" (Boom3)). Armando

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From Sound Practices

Page 2 P.Wilson

P.Wilson 1935

From the Gramophone 1935

Seti, I have some Voight related articles that I wil post when I figure out how to do it, with the new forum software.

The EV 12L's are excellent drivers, widely used as electric guitar speakers. Dr. Edgar used them for the his 50hz Show horn.

The Dean that started this thread is back on ebay. The ex-winning bidder is from Hongkong, and is willing to pay for packing and shipping which will most likely exceed the winning bid, but the seller would not ship. Somebody from the U.S. should get this. There is not a lot of this around. If I only live in CA.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5877813675&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

Wolfram, I prefer the cobreflex because it can be crossed at a lower point. The SM120's were my first midhorns and I like them vey much with my Khorn clones, but they don't go low enough for my University Classic. I like to have a pair of K-400's, but with the way things are going on this forum, with the trachorns, 511b's, 311's and others replacing the K-400, they may end up on my "technological dead-end" shelf with my EV 828HF's (the mailing tube midhorn) .

Thanks for posting, Q. That thread was very inspiring, "lots of meat and few potatos". I printed the entire thread then (came to about 1/2 thick, 8.5 x 11's) and I have it to this day. I'm glad I did...Try to goggle search that today.... Armando

Boom3, Maybe you should give the cobreflex a listen, and not at the airport.. I actually prefer it over my EV SM120 and 511B, using the same driver. About 3 years ago, there was a thread called Installing Mike's 511B, where a couple of forum members did listening tests on the cobreflex, 511b and the K-400 horn. The cobreflex was the first choice and the K-400 the dead-end.

It sure looks good!

I got it installed. Great pictures. I'll go back to that website.

Ok, I'll try that, tnx.

Yes, you're right. The specs from hifilit.com say it's good down to 250. D, I tried the website but I don't have a tiff viewer.

The exterior, after sandblasting. They really look nice unpainted. And they sound real good.

Internal view of the cobreflex. An assembled unit has a stiff cardboard piece that splits the path of the section close to the throat, (i.e. a center divider). A rubber gasket separates the top and bottom half to prevent metal-to-metal-contact.

Maybe this will help. The dimensions given on the previous posts and on this drawing are close. Recheck with your 511b's when you get them.