BusaDude
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Posts posted by BusaDude
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You'll have to contact Crites and ask them directly. I'm sure they can give you more detail about how much power their diaphragms can handle... if it's more than stock.
But most if not all of their products are essentially drop in replacements for the stock items. And built to perform as new.
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The amplifier is what clips... When it's asked to produce more power than it's capable. When this happens, it can generate high frequency distortion which is what can cause the tweeter voice coil to burn out.
If the amp is powerful enough, it may not clip, but will send enough voltage to physically move the voice coils too far (forward & back) which just damages the speaker.
A woofer's voice coil can also burn out, but usually from just too much continuous power (overheating). And that's if the woofer voice coil isn't already bottoming out... which can cause physical damage to the woofer.
Even though the KG4 may be rated for 100 watts continuous, the tweeter itself might only be capable of handling a few watts. The crossover sends the rest of the power to the woofers.
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It's hard to know what 50% on a volume knob represents... Depending on the gain structure of the amp and the input voltage driving it, it could be 20 watts or 120 watts??? So it's possible to reach an amp's limit well before the volume is "turned all the way up".
Even if the amp was just barely clipping, you might not know it. But if it went on for 30 minutes, then it could still kill a tweeter.
As you mentioned, the turn off sequence, if not followed, can easily send some loud transients through your speakers. And again, since they sounded fine for a minute or so after you turned them down, it was probably the pop that did them in... And not the volume itself.
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KG4's are rated for 100 watts continuous, 500 watts peak. Based on your description of what happened, the loud pop when you turned off the amp, is probably what killed the tweeters. Particularly since you said they sounded fine for a minute or so after you turned the volume down.
And if your amp is making that pop every time you turn it off, even with the volume turned down, it may have an electrical issue. And that could be sending some very high energy, high frequency noise to your speakers. Which could easily kill the new diaphragms you ordered from Crites.
The type of music could have something to do with it, particularly if it was bass heavy...as that may have just pushed the amp into clipping. And 30 minutes of that could kill a tweeter as well.
The main Klipsch website is being updated, so the specs for the KG4 aren't available. But here is a link to the archived specs for the KG4.
https://web.archive.org/web/20111127070629/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-4
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Yeah, the Academy has a 90x40 exponential horn and that matches the 90x40 exponential horns on the Chorus. So it's about as close (tonally) as you can get. You may also be able to find one with the same type of veneer. So it'll be close in the looks department as well (if that matters to you).
Here's the link to the Chorus page/specs in case you haven't seen them before.
https://web.archive.org/web/20130527204020/http://www.klipsch.com/chorus-floorstanding-speaker
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Chorus was definitely the way to go... If you can't fit another Chorus I, Forte I or Heresy in to your center channel position then try and find an Academy. It's the closest conventional center channel match for the Chorus I.
Here's a link to a web archive for the Academy... Unfortunately the main Klipsch website is being updated and there are no specs/information currently listed for the Academy. Next best choice would probably be KLF-C7. Both are relatively easy to find (craigslist/ebay), but are becoming more rare by the day.
https://web.archive.org/web/20130527194758/http://www.klipsch.com/academy-center-speaker
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Hello,
The midrange driver in one of my KLF-20's is toast. Can anyone help me source it and/or let me know the part # I'm looking for?
Thanks!
Here's the link to Crites speakers... They can get you fixed up.
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For reference, here is a link to the Cornwall II page on the Klipsch website.
http://www.klipsch.com/products/cornwall-ii-floorstanding-speaker
As you can see, and as others have mentioned, the Cornwall II has the drivers mounted from the front.
Unfortunately the Klipsch website is being updated, so the page for the original Cornwall doesn't appear to have the correct picture right now.
And just to clarify... The serial numbers for your speakers are:
21 T 568
21 T 569
With the letter "T" signifying the year of manufacture. These serial numbers should also be stamped into the wood on the back side of the speaker (the edge of the plywood).
The "C-BR" stands for Cornwall Birch Raw.
If you have the paperwork you received with the speakers, post a photo and maybe that will help explain the confusion. In any case, from the photos and serial numbers you provided, they look to be original Cornwalls and not Cornwall II's.
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You may also want to post this in the "garage sale" section of the forum (see link below)... Either as a "For Sale" item or that you're requesting/needing some information.
https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/forum/63-garage-sale/
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Your Sony's implementation of the CEC/ARC protocol may be forcing it's own speakers on... Which is weird??? But there should be a way to turn the Sony TV speakers OFF in the settings and enable the CEC/ARC to the on position.
Could you post your Sony TV model number? If we can look up the owners manual online, maybe there's a setting you've missed that another pair of eyes might catch?
Having said that, getting the CEC/ARC protocol between two different brands to work correctly, sometimes (in my own experience) brings weird issues.
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Forte II's love some good solid state horsepower, so don't worry about the extra bit of headroom your amp has over the rated input power of the speaker.
A little too much is better than not enough as it will provide a little insurance that you don't clip the amp even if you have the volume up a bit.
Dust'em off... hook them up... turn it up!
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Those are nice... Wish you were closer to Dallas. Are they walnut oil?
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I think a 3 way RF-7 type, with a much lower (600-700 Hz) woofer to midrange crossover, and a separate tweeter, would be a speaker worth potentially purchasing. Until then I'll stick with my LaScalas.
Over the years I've seen this comment made so no offense to the poster but, don't you think the engineers at Klipsch thought of that and would have implemented it if it were going to sound better, in that footprint? For the record, the KLF-20s.30s are 3 way design speakers and they were replaced with the RF-7s which still have rave reviews...Fwiw, I have the KLF-20s/C-7 and they sound awesome but what is listed below is what is on our main Home Theater.
Having seen and heard much of what has come out of Klipsch since the KLF series ended... I don't think the "engineers" were exactly getting their way. I think marketing to a particular customer/segment that was more interested in looks/size won out. And that was driven by profit and competing for market share, as most other manufacturers were moving to/towards slim and smaller speakers.
The RF-7 is just an extension of that... 2-way like the cheaper lines with the same copper colored (hey look at us!) drivers.
Yes, the RF-7's are highly respected. And from the very short time I ever heard a pair, they sound pretty good. But, I wonder how many people would think that if they were blindly comparing to a similar sized 3-way design (KLF 30 or Chorus 2).
Or to put it another way... if Klipsch were to build brand new versions of the KLF 30 and Chorus II and line them up against the current RF-7, and sold all for the same price, which model would you choose?
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5.1 is all I have so far so that isn't a problem. right now the TV is giving me 0.0 though whether I use hdmi or optical or both.
Are you sure your HDMI cable is oriented correctly? The new ones work one way and one way only.
The "new ones"? Really? Unless he has one of the very few active/directional cables, which have been around for several years and are generally for very long cable runs... there is no need or requirement to use them for HDMI 2.0 at all.
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What about Palladiums? Aren't some of them 3 way? Just sayin'Who knows? I have more confidence in saying they'll never make another 3-way (mainstream, other than Heritage) speaker.
Read my quote... I said "mainstream". The Palladium series is NOT mainstream.
I'm talking about the models that used to be more mass market (KLF 20/30, Quartet, Forte II, Chorus II) and were within reach (price wise) to most.
Since the KLF series, all of the Reference, Reference Premier, etc. has been 2-way only and priced much lower. And the only current model (RF-7II) in the same price range as the KLF 30 or Chorus II, is also a 2-way.
And having owned KLF 20`s and multiple pairs of Forte II, Chorus II and Quartet... I'd personally take them over anything (except the Heritage line) made since the KLF series ended.
I think a 3 way RF-7 type, with a much lower (600-700 Hz) woofer to midrange crossover, and a separate tweeter, would be a speaker worth potentially purchasing. Until then I'll stick with my LaScalas.
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Just to clarify, in case I've missed or misunderstood your issue...
To get the audio back from the TV... your HDMI cable has to be plugged into the ARC (audio return channel) capable HDMI ports on both the TV and the receiver/preprocessor. Or in your case the Klipsch Wireless controller.
Generally these HDMI ports are labeled with "ARC" and based on what you said, the Sony's HDMI4 port is the ARC connection. You need to find the ARC capable HDMI on the Klipsch controller and plug the HDMI cable into that connecter/port. And make sure ARC is enabled in the settings for both.
The Klipsch controller has one HDMI 2.0 & HDCP 2.2 capable port, from what I've found in the owners manual... listed as HDMI IN1. But there's nothing (in the manual) saying the HDMI OUT/TV is labeled as ARC capable.
Unless Klipsch left that capability off of the wireless controller. And I don't actually see it (ARC) specifically mentioned in the specs (online or in the manual). Just the HDMI 2.0 and HDCP 2.2 capability on the HDMI IN1 as shown in the manual.
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If you really want them then why not find a nice used pair and buy them? Whether Klipsch produces an RF-7 III or not doesn't seem to matter. Do you think a theoretical RF-7 III is going to be so much better than the current version II, that you'd lose money selling the II at some point in the future?
Was the RF-7 II any different/better than the original? Splitting hairs if you ask me...
Whether Klipsch makes another floorstander with dual 10" drivers... Who knows? I have more confidence in saying they'll never make another 3-way (mainstream, other than Heritage) speaker. Something they haven't done since the KLF series ended in 2001.
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Buy one of these and split it...
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Efficiency is not affected by the number of drivers.the 2 driver setup would increase (not double) efficiency.
I'm simply saying... To answer the OP's question about why it could matter...
If you had two equal size/volume cabinets, one with nothing more than a single, generic 8" driver, capable of 90 dB 1w/1m.
And the other with two of those exact same 8" drivers...
And you feed both of them 1 watt...
then you will in fact get 3 dB more SPL out of the "speaker" that has the two drivers.
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You're assuming that you're just hooking two drivers up with no regards to the crossover or what impedance you'll end up with, which isn't reality.A very basic question here but one that I think would be immensely help to understand.
One speaker has say 1 8" driver and a tweeter.
Another has 2, 3 or 4 8" drivers and a tweeter.
Why?
When you decide what to purchase for a particular purpose, how do you decide what size drivers to purchase. An example say is the Klipsch RP series....you can get the 250, 260 or 280 series. How and why would you choose between them?
Yes it's a newbie question.
Thanks in advance for any information shared.
Respectfully,
RK
Several possible reasons....
First... a single 8" driver has a surface area = pi x radius x radius = 3.14159 x 4 x 4 = 50.27 square inches
Two 8" drivers have a surface area = pi x radius x radius = 3.14159 x 4 x 4 = 50.27 x 2 = 100.54 square inches
Now you've immediately doubled the amount of air you're moving, which in part gives you an increase in efficiency.
This increase, by adding another driver of the same size/specs, gives you another 3 decibels in sound level.
So if one 8" driver gave you 90 dB with 1 watt at 1 meter... then two 8" drivers will give you 93 dB with 1 watt at 1 meter.
Or the two 8" drivers will give you 90 dB with exactly half the power, in this case 1/2 a watt. And since the drivers aren't moving as far to create the same sound level, they should be more linear (accurate) and create less distortion.
Funny how you ignored the part where I said...
"All of these variables would then come into play within the speaker, crossover and how the cabinet is tuned."
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Doubling speakers does NOT double efficiency, for example.
I didn't say that... I said it doubled the amount of air moved, which contributes to an increase in SPL of 3 dB.
And since every 3 dB increase in SPL requires a doubling of power, the 2 driver setup would increase (not double) efficiency. And it would reduce the amount of power needed (by 1/2) to generate the same SPL.
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DSD hugh, I don't know much about it other than its a new higher def streaming that is better than mp3.
How big are the files of a typical song? In Megabytes if you would.
Ugh I see crooked Sony is behind the technology.
The DSD format/recordings have been around for more than a decade... the only relatively new thing about it is you can now download recordings online in the high-res format. Sony and Phillips actually created the technology.
Here's a pretty good article on the subject... http://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/the-abcs-of-dsd-downloads/
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A very basic question here but one that I think would be immensely help to understand.
One speaker has say 1 8" driver and a tweeter.
Another has 2, 3 or 4 8" drivers and a tweeter.
Why?
When you decide what to purchase for a particular purpose, how do you decide what size drivers to purchase. An example say is the Klipsch RP series....you can get the 250, 260 or 280 series. How and why would you choose between them?
Yes it's a newbie question.
Thanks in advance for any information shared.
Respectfully,
RK
Several possible reasons....
First... a single 8" driver has a surface area = pi x radius x radius = 3.14159 x 4 x 4 = 50.27 square inches
Two 8" drivers have a surface area = pi x radius x radius = 3.14159 x 4 x 4 = 50.27 x 2 = 100.54 square inches
Now you've immediately doubled the amount of air you're moving, which in part gives you an increase in efficiency.
This increase, by adding another driver of the same size/specs, gives you another 3 decibels in sound level.
So if one 8" driver gave you 90 dB with 1 watt at 1 meter... then two 8" drivers will give you 93 dB with 1 watt at 1 meter.
Or the two 8" drivers will give you 90 dB with exactly half the power, in this case 1/2 a watt. And since the drivers aren't moving as far to create the same sound level, they should be more linear (accurate) and create less distortion.
All of these variables would then come into play within the speaker, crossover and how the cabinet is tuned.
On the RP-260, you have two 6.5" drivers versus the RP-280 with two 8" drivers.
The RP-260 is in a slightly smaller cabinet (34 Hz low end) versus the RP-280 (32 Hz low end).
The RP-260 is slightly less efficient (97 dB 1w/1m) versus the RP-280 (98 dB 1w/1m).
The RP-260 has slightly less power handling (125w cont / 500w peak) versus the RP-280 (150w cont / 600w peak).
In this case the adage "Bigger is better" pays off... the RP-280 has better low end frequency response, is more efficient and has better power handling. That's not always the case, but is generally true. On some past Klipsch models, the bigger model (Chorus II vs Forte II or KLF30 vs KLF 20) in the series had slightly less bass response in exchange for increased efficiency.
If you have a very large room (all else being equal, except for price) the RP-280's would probably be the better choice and perform better. If you have a smaller room, the RP-260's would probably be sufficient. It will come down to your room, your ears, what kind of music/movies you're listening to and how much you want to spend.
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Looking to add a high quality 2 channel amp, not sure if I am on the right track..
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
Aaron... look at page 9 and 22 of your owner's manual... those RCA jacks are for connecting to legacy (older) 2-channel devices such as a VCR or CD player. They will not function correctly as a "Pre Out" jack (like the subwoofer is labeled). In fact after looking at all of the current Yamaha RX-V series receivers, the only one that has a full set of "Pre Out" jacks (suitable for driving an outboard amplifier) is the RX-V777 or V779 (see attached photo).
On the Yamaha Aventage series the "Pre Out" jacks appear to be available on the RX-A840 or A850 series and higher.
The Yamaha you have will work just fine... But as a lower end AVR it does have some limitations and doesn't have some of the "bells & whistles" of the higher end units.
As discussed in your other post, the Chorus will be perfectly happy with the RX-V377 and it's 70 watts per channel. BUT, if you really wanted to explore what the Chorus is capable of and listen to loud (110 dB+ range) music (or movies) with chest thumping bass, then you'll really need to find a quality amp and another AVR or Pre-Pro to drive it.