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sivadselim

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Everything posted by sivadselim

  1. Assymetrically locating the horn and pushing the drivers closer together actually reduces the lobing problem. But why must this hypothetical speaker have two drivers? One will work fine. A Chorus with the woofer simply moved down (which would be over to the side if horizontally oriented) and with the horns rotated 90degrees would work just fine. I thought that by using the PR in the place of one of the woofers you were trying to eliminate having two horizontally-oriented (mid)woofers producing identical output (the cause of lobing). I thought you were proposing a single-horned speaker much like the current Reference centers, but with one driver being a PR. But why do you even need the PR? A single-woofered center channel speaker would be fine. In looking at the current Reference center offerings, I noticed that the 2 woofers operate such that they both cover the low-end of things, but only one operates over the mid-range frequencies, thereby reducing (or eliminating) the lobing effect.
  2. I'm not sure why this would be better than your aforementioned Chorus design, unless you are trying to use a single central horn and use a passive to eliminate any lobing issues that you may have with 2 identical woofers straddling the horn. Honestly, I'm not sure where the Tractix horn is normally crossed in relative to a conventional tweeter on the Reference centers. I think it is crossed in lower already, so it may handle enough of the midrange to make lobing from the mid-woofers less of an issue. However, except to make the speaker slimmer, vertically, by using two smaller drivers, whether it's two woofers or a woofer and a passive, there really is no reason to use two drivers. One is plenty. Again, the "vertical Cornwall" design, although still not as slim in appearance as most horizontally-oriented center channel speakers, is probably the best. Your similar "horizontally-oriented Chorus" design, would actually appear more like a conventional center channel speaker.
  3. I totally agree, but what do you do? If you have a speaker as tall as a Chorus or Khorn, you'd have to place your seats on a 12" pedestal in order to orient your viewing height correctly, then the other thing, the looks. A tall speaker standing under or worse, on top of the television looks rediculous, according to the WAF, ( I tend to agree). At least a re-think on this Heratige center thing that's hot on everyones mind, I just think a little more thought should be put into actual use. You either place the matching center speaker on the floor, identically to the front left and right speakers, and position the TV or screen above the center speaker, or, if you place the speaker above the TV or screen, you can flip it over, upside-down, to place the mid/tweets closer to ear level. I never really understood why a speaker like a huge La Scala, when placed on it's side, made it any more aesthetically acceptable than simply orienting the monster vertically. [] Consumers (and their wives) need to be re-trained into accepting a vertically-oriented center speaker. [:|] [] [] ANY horizontally-oriented center speaker is a compromise, however there are ways to design them better to overcome many of the short-comings of the majority of the horizontally-oriented center channel speakers that are available. Horizontally-oriented MTM speakers (midwoofer-tweeter-midwoofer; the design that the majority of horizontal center channel speakers exhibit) suffer from "lobing", which is, basically, an interference phenomenon caused by adjacent placement of two identical drivers that are producing acoustically identical output. The result of lobing, with respect to the horizontal mid-woofer to mid-woofer distance and arrangement encountered in most MTM center channel speakers, is a dip in horizontal, off-axis midrange frequency response. Since most dialogue relies heavily upon midrange frequencies for reproduction of human voices, a midrange dip is exactly what you don't want from a center-channel speaker. There ARE several horizontally-oriented speaker designs that attempt to alleviate the problems associated with horizontally-oriented center channel speakers; both the dispersion issue and the lobing issue. Horizontal MTMs are usually designed with a lower crossover point between the midwoofers and tweeter, so that the single tweeter produces some of the midrange content that would normally be cancelled due to lobing. Sometimes an offset tweeter design is used which allows for closer spacing of the 2 midwoofers, which helps reduce, but not eliminate, the lobing effect. Another common method used in horizontal center speakers to reduce lobing is to simply add a midrange driver, arranged vertically with a tweeter, both located between the two midwoofers; the so-called WTMW design. This is probably the design that a specifically-designed Heritage center channel speaker would exhibit. But none of these designs completely eliminates the vertical dispersion issues associated with horizontally-oriented vertically "slim" center channel speaker. Actually, the better design for a Heritage center channel speaker, although not as slim, vertically, would probably be similar to that of the single-woofer, "vertical Cornwall" that is referenced in this thread. Another design, and perhaps the best, is the coincidental array design, where the tweeter is located in the center of a single midwoofer. This design, with only a single midwoofer, completely eliminates the lobing issue. But even a horizontally-oriented coincidental array designed speaker does not disperse sound as ideally as a vertically-oriented coincidental array speaker would. Of course, the coincidental array design would NOT be a design embraced by Klipsch for a center-channel specific speaker, as it is simply not their "heritage". In the end, a vertically-oriented speaker is still the best design for not only the front left and right stereo pairs, but also for the center channel speaker. A horizontally-oriented center-channel speaker, no matter the design, is not ideal. It is purely a compromise.
  4. VERY poor nomenclature. [*-)] [:S] [] But I HAVE started using "vertically-oriented" and "horizontally-oriented" for some clarity, here.
  5. This is exactly my point. The Heresy is a poor option for a center channel, not because of the quality of sound, but rather the shape of the cabinet. [:^)] But MY point was that a Heresy or a La Scala doesn't look much different nor take up much more vertical space if it IS oriented properly (vertically). That almost all speakers made are longer vertically than their horizontal width is no accident. The horizontally-oriented center channel speaker that is all too common today is simply a compromise (and a bad one, at that) for users who either don't have the space to orient a conventional speaker vertically, or don't like the appearance of a vertically-oriented conventional speaker, in the center. The best choice for a center channel speaker is obviously one that is absolutely identical to and oriented identically to your front left and right speakers.
  6. [:^)] Don't you mean a "horizontal Heresy"? [:S] It won't sound better than a properly oriented (vertical) Heresy. [*-)] HORIZONTAL! [] That IS a vertical Heresy! The Heresy was specifically designed to disperse sound properly in the horizontal plane when it is used as intended; vertically. If you turn it on it's side, it disperses much of its sound toward the ceiling and floor with a very narrow horizontal dispersion window. This is exactly what you DO NOT WANT from your center channel speaker. Unnecessary reflections off the ceiling and floor can alter a speaker's clarity significantly. This is particularly unwanted with a center channel speaker, which is responsible for almost all of a movie's dialogue. And unless you watch movies alone and always sit in the "sweet spot", what you want from your center channel speaker is wide horizontal dispersion so that the dialogue can be heard clearly from anywhere someone may sit in the room. With both the Heresy and La Scala, the speaker's width is not much different than it's height. If it just won't fit in your space vertically, that's one thing, but if it's at all possible, a vertical speaker used as a center channel speaker should be used as it was intended; vertically. In that posted picture, it appears that the horizontally-oriented "center speaker" will clearly fit in the same space if it was oriented vertically. Tilting it down toward the listening spot can be useful and it can also be turned upside down if it's mounted high above ear level.
  7. Either one would sound fine on a hardwood floor. A carpeted floor absorbs some of the upper-end bass with a down-firing sub.
  8. If you have the subwoofer connected to your processor's LFE or sub-out, then leave the low-pass disabled; there is NO reason to "toggle" it. [*-)]
  9. Not the most technical but certainly one of the most influential: BILL LASWELL http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bill+laswell&search=Search Again, take your pick. Probably not gonna find a solo, but his stuff is all over the place. [:|]
  10. John Patitucci http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=john+patitucci&search=Search Take your pick. [:S]
  11. Don't forget OTEIL! [] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILzzTQzNPIY'>
  12. Heart of the Sunrise Tempus Fugit Siberian Khatru []
  13. [:^)][:|][] WHY? That shouldn't be necessary. At all. Have you calibrated the system properly? Do you have the low-pass "disabled"?
  14. Do you mean RW-12 or RW-12d? If you just got an RW-12, you should have gotten a good deal because they've been discontinued for a while, now. One immediately apparent "difference" is that the Sub12 is downfiring.
  15. LOL [] For years, I've jokingly called my mother, Mothra. []
  16. The in-wall rating refers to governmental regulations concerning the flammability and toxic smoke-producing capability of the wire when it is burning. If you are truly doing an in-wall installation and you want the wiring to be "up to code" (as well as safe), then I'd use the proper wire. If you decide to sell your house, an inspector may check this. That said, I am actually using some grey, in-wall, 16/4 wire (twisted pair) for my surround speakers in a non-in-wall situation simply because I found it easier to shove beneath my baseboards as well as less conspicuous than copper speaker wire.
  17. Well............................ the idea is simple. It's the implementation that can be difficult to "dial-in". True, but that fixed high-pass filter is usually near the low-end capabilities of the sub and would be too low to use as a high-pass in this instance unless, of course, it is adjustable to a relatively high value. Yep. You could even use a cheap, in-line RCA-type high-pass filter of fixed frequency to do it. But the exact implementation and proper calibration of this sort of setup is still difficult and I wouldn't recommend it for a novice. I agree.
  18. Not sure what you're saying, but if you mean letting one handle upper bass and the other lower, this is pretty hard to implement. Would require a high-pass filter on the upper end sub.
  19. That's what the (very) large majority use. Some subs do have a pre-out pass-through but I've always heard that it's actually better to just use a Y-adapter. If there is no pass-through, then you have no choice but the Y-adapter. It works fine.
  20. You can, if you do something like this: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/906507.aspx Lou You'd want to use the tower vertically, as it was intended. This avoids all the pitfalls of the horizontal center channel speaker, especially the horizontal MTM center channel speaker.
  21. With your speakers set to SMALL, and 2-PB12/Plus2s, 2 more RF82s should be plenty and, except for your center, you'll have all matching speakers. Add another RF82 for center duty and you'd have RF82s all the way around, which would be awesome.
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