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Posts posted by schwock5

  1. Marantz and Denon are owned by the same parent company, so they should be reflecting their "specs" similarly, maybe you can find better details in a different area online.

    FWIW, i went from an older Denon 4308 to the Marantz 8012 to run my Klipsch 7 channel System.


    I upgraded because i got a 4k tv and needed more HDMI inputs and better passthrough and also to eventually add some atmos speakers.


    What always interested me was people saying Marantz is good for Music and Denon for movies.

    That honestly makes no sense to me. If something is "better" for music (more clarity, wider soundstage, more dynamic, better sound) then isn't it also better for movies?

    I played a 7.1 DTS soundtrack from ant man and was completely floored by the marantz. 

    It's also got a lot more mid-range than my old denon so music and records sound phenomenal on it.

    The sound seperation and presence in the surround channels is also much more present, but i'm also updating from a 10 year old receiver.


    I honestly don't know if the comparable denon line would be any different from this marantz i have, but i don't think you can go wrong with either.

    Klipsch are pretty easy to run and efficient, so i think it comes down to budget and features for you.


    If you got any questions feel free to ask!

    I've also really enjoyed the HEOS implementation (never thought i'd even use this), but in 5 minutes i was streaming Pandora to it and using their "enhancer" and the sound and ease to put that on while working fomr home some days has been really nice (both denon and marantz will have that)

    • Like 1
  2. https://usa.denon.com/us/product/hometheater/receivers/avr4308ci


    Upgraded to a Marantz 8012 for Atmos and finally parting ways with my Denon 4308.

    This has been a workhorse and shows no signs of slowing down.

    Been in my rack since it was purchased, original owner. One of the last ones made in Japan until recently.

    Absolute beast of a receiver. Local pickup for now, looking for $500 or best offer.


    I have the radio transmitter, both remotes, and the audyssey calibration mic.

    I may have the original manual as well, but also available online.


    Alternatives Process MAP.xlsx


  3. The key is not having a subwoofer! Even though the RF7s get low, i keep it in check and usually only blast during reasonable hours...


    Also need to update my sig... the marantz 8012 is in and I couldn't be happier 

  4. On 8/22/2018 at 2:30 PM, Nismo said:

    Hey schwock5... I've been using the RP-140's for over 3 years now & they perform very well. With these there is no need to wall mount them... they sit horizontally on top of your existing Front Towers & Rear Speakers. For Atmos applications, the angle is already engineered into the cabinet (level - horizontal), & designed to bounce off the ceiling (sitting on top of your existing Front & Rear Speakers). If you still require a wall mount application... I'd position & hang a wall mount shelf & place them on the shelf.


    The RP-140SA's  are 4"... coming soon are the new 5" RP-500SA. You might want to hold off & consider the RP-500SA's when they come out.

    • ...

    I've heard that reflecting is "less than idea" and folks in other forums who have used these at height channels getting better results.

    I also don't have an ideal ceiling as there are beams running across, so not a solid surface.

    Whenever i get these I will first try them as reflecting and then mounted as heights to compare.


    I saw these 500s recently on the site, i think i am going to hold off for those since they have a larger woofer and changeable crossover to use better as the height channel instead of the reflecting atmos setting.

  5. Yes, I agree, i was looking at the 140s to add and then stumbled across these on the site, almost seems like they weren't even announced.

    Seems these are the new top of the line with a larger woofer than the 140s and a switchable crossover?


    Seems like a better competitor to the SVS Prime Elevations speakers and these can be set to be used either way (heights or reflecting Atmos).

  6. I have a Marantz 8012 coming this week. Looking to pick up 4 140SAs to mount as front and rear heights for atmos for my current 7 channel system

    Anyone use these as atmos heights yet and have any recommendations? 

    Also any specific speaker wall mounts to use to angle them (if needed)?

  7. Not sure what was going on with my post, but here it is as it should be:


    Is there a special tool needed to remove the front of these speakers? Are the holes where the grills went in the actual screws to remove to open up the whole front? 

    A buddy of mine dabbles in repairing old turntables and is pretty handle with soldering. But i was thinking if i was gonna open the whole thing up, maybe it's replacing those wires, the crossover, and anything else. Just a little 10 year clean-up.....

  8. On 3/2/2018 at 11:22 AM, wvu80 said:

    Is there a special tool needed to remove the front of these speakers? Are the holes where the grills went in the actual screws to remove to open up the whole front? 

    A buddy of mine dabbles in repairing old turntables and is pretty handle with soldering. But i was thinking if i was gonna open the whole thing up, maybe it's replacing those wires, the crossover, and anything else. Just a little 10 year clean-up.....


  9. I love my RF7s. I started with the RF35s as my fronts, and when these went on closeout to make room for the series 2 I snatched them up.

    It's been 10 years.


    While I have no desire to spend the kind of money needed to upgrade to the series 3 of these, I was wondering, do speakers need maintenance like old vintage amps/receivers?

    I know there's always talk of changing the crossovers and such, but anything else?


    After 10 years, if i wanted to "update" these to keep them as good as they were or to improve them without having to change speakers, what updates/mods are people doing?

    How much should I be looking spend and how difficult are the mods?


    I also noted sometimes recently my bass would sound off and when looking through the back porthole i could see the wire came lose and i'd have to attach it again.

    They seem very small. Is that something people have upgraded as well? and with a better connection?


    I lost my front grills long ago (cats thought it was a climbing tree), and i think some of the foam inside one of the speakers was torn up a little by a cat. Does the foam need to be replaced if it's shifted a little since the beginning?


  10. i'm not trying to mix the signals, i want to ensure they are separated to exactly prevent this issue from happening :-)


    1 hour ago, wvu80 said:

    I misunderstood the original problem.  I think I'm clear now, use two pre-pros simultaneously with a single power amp using the balanced inputs to the amp for one pre/pro, the un-balanced inputs for the other.  I have two comments.


    1.  Don't do it, for one simple reason; the amp was not designed to be used that way.  One pre-pro, one amp.


    2.  The ONLY thing that would change my opinion on that is if you contact the manufacturers of each and get their EXPRESSED approval.  If ANY of the companies say no, then it's "no."  Don't ask us, ask the company that made your amp.


    The common way to do what you want to do would be to get a switch to completely separate the signals.  The first time you power two pre-pros into one amp, I would anticipate lots of blue smoke, maybe for all three pieces of equipment.  And hope that they don't take the speakers with them.


    Unless you are independently wealthy and can afford to buy new amps and pre/pros every time you do something crazy and blow everything up, don't do it.


  11. 11 hours ago, pbphoto said:

    Yes.  I have a passive-pre for my two-channel listening.  Basically a switch box between my DAC and TT with a volume attenuator.  The other pre is an AVR for movies and the kids' PS4, appleTV etc.  The two are never used at the same time but the passive pre's volume attenuator is always part of the equation.  In other words, when playing a move with the AVR, I make sure my two-channel passive pre's volume is set at a consistent level - like 12 o'clock - and this makes the volume of my L/R speakers match the rest of the center/surround speakers.


    is this the only way to do it?

  12. 59 minutes ago, pbphoto said:

    I just use Y-cables to the unbalanced inputs on my amp.


    so you run 2 separate pre-pros through a splitter to 1 amp input?

    What happens if you have both running? do your speakers play both signals simultaneously?

  13. 3 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

    I think he wants to have one amp, connect one pre to the balanced inputs and another one to the unbalanced inputs of the same amp.


    Correct! (in theory). Just postulating.

    I know people usually have a dedicated 2 channel and dedicated home theater setup.

    How would you combine to leverage 1 amp and 1 set of speakers?

    Let's say you like the sound of a specific tube pre-amp and want to use that for music but still have your home theater.


    I mentioned balanced and unbalanced since an amp can have both inputs and you can connect 1 pre-pro to each.


  14. Wasn't sure where to really ask this or even to do it in the Klipsch forum, but was wondering about something...(i'm not too technical)


    I was looking into getting an older Sunfire Cinema Grand Amp (5 channel or 7 channel), but this could really apply to any amp with both balanced and unbalanced inputs.

    For Home Theater i'd run a Marantz Pre-Pro through it for multi-channel.

    I could run my turntable through the Marantz, however, is something like this possible:

    If i obtained a Sunfure Tube Pre-amp (or some other stereo pre-amp) and ran my turntable into that as well as my CD player, could i do unbalanced inputs from the marantz to the amp and balanced from the pre-pro to the amp in the same input of the front channels?

    If one pre-pro is off while the other is on would this cause any issues? What happens if both are on and sending a signal?


    I've seen some threads mention running the fronts of the home theater pre-pro into a line-in of the stereo pre-pro and having to have both on and the the volume regulated for both, but i wouldn't want to run the stereo pre-amp unnecessarily.


    Or do i send the stereo pre-amp into the L/R "external in" of the marantz and send the signal that way? (keeping it in pure direct and analog all the way through)

  15. I saw that, i'm still waiting to get some info back regarding if it's a 17 or 19", series i or series ii with the toroidal.

    Really only need the 5 channel (so looking to save some money) as this would be used for my main 5 and i'd probably sound out the surround back and future atmos with a 7 channel Outlaw Audio.

  16. I think the processor will make the most difference, but getting a processor with no amp will leave you with no sound :-)

    I always tell people invest in speakers they want first (since the technology doesn't really change and you will keep these for a looong time) with a semi-affordable reciever to keep you going until you can afford the other stuff. (which is exactly where you are at now)

    then invest in the good amp, then when you have your amps, you can get the processor and get rid of the reciever. at this point, the processor will also be the most up to date, or you can get a previous years model for much much cheaper.

    Then get the TV, since picture quality and other tech is constantly changing.

    Just my thoughts.

  17. I believe that the HD and SD color spaces and standards are different.

    You'd want the old DVE or AVIA or SD dvd players and the HD ones for blu ray and HD to properly calibrate brightness, black level, and the colors.

    I think.

    Also, with the enhanced resolution, you will be able to calibrate the sharpness controls better.

    For instance, I am going ot use this disk to calibrate my HDTV, but since everything is hooke dup thugh my denon, I'm going ot use my old avia / DVE disk to calibrate my actual SD dvd player since the player it self has color controls.

    That way my ps3, xbox 360, and blu rays will look great since my tv is calibrated as should, and my dvd player will have it's own settings so nothing ever has to change on my tv.

  18. The thing was, with my old sony's, since they weren't as far in my ear as my klipsch, i had to up the level to get to what i can get now with the Image at 3/4 volume.

    This max volume would cause a lot of distoriton too, which is another reason the image sound better, because I can get the same volume at a lower output.

    But there's a certain volume level, whether in my home theater or through headphones, where the drums, bass, treble, and everything has that perfect sound and impact.

    And i've noticed that at 14-15 of 20 on my mp3 player (3/4 volume), that's where it is (this moves slightly depending on if the source is 128 mp3, 320 mp3, or another bitrate, plus dependent on albm level.

    But generally, 14-15 is the level (when outside or on the train with lots of ambient noise), that the perfect sound level comes.

    If i'm home in a quiet room listening, yes, 10-11 (of 20, half) sounds fine.

    I never go above 3/4, as this volume level is loud enough for me and sound sperfect.

    When I lower it, i feel that some of the impact and live feel and energy of the song is lost.

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