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Spkrdctr

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Posts posted by Spkrdctr

  1. They have no mention of any technical info. Sounds to me like a capacitor or an RC circuit cutting off the high frequencies (maybe). Or it could be a very small coil. Anyway, from the reviews and ESPECIALLY their method of listening tests, the product is useless. There listening methods are pure trash and snakeoil.

  2. You are correct. Original packaging is NOT sufficient for shipping UPS. Use the 8ft drop test. If the package can't handle being dropped 5 times from 8ft, than it is NOT packed good enough. Most of the old timers know this. It is the guys who are starting to ship stuff that get burned. UPS will screw you over in a heart beat, as you are not a million dollar customer. Good luck with future shipping!

  3. The Sub-12 is by far the best bang for buck subwoofer on the market...you can't even beat it going DIY for the same price! It will completely demolish your old sub, both in output and quality.

    As far as the F3's go...think of the psychology involved. No matter what, people are going to claim the reference sounds better, if for nothing else because they are prettier and cost more (so they have to sound better).

    Dr.Who

    Those are words of wisdom Dr. Who. Reference may sound better, but at a much, much, higher cost!

  4. I read that review, and it is the most untechnical jackass review of equipment that I have read in a long time. The reviewer is an audio amatuer of the highest order. All I can say is my response to the review was "What a jackass!" No technical info at all.

    I have heard the F3s and they sound darned nice. If the bass was muddy, it was because he had severe room issues or an equipment problem. Sheesh! The crap that gets on the internet!

    I'm done ranting now........[:D]

  5. When an amplifier is expected to deliver more current to a speaker than its capable of doing, clipping occurs. When an amplifier clips, it literally cuts off the tops and bottoms of the sound waveforms that its trying to produce.

    I would insert voltage in the first sentence, instead of current. Other than that, go for all the power you can afford if you listen to loud music.

  6. If your serious Ken, take some sound deadener material for car audio and conform it to your horn on the exterior, so it will be on the interior of the speaker. The caps could be replaced as has been mentioned. I would go with the cheaper sound deadener first, rather than the caps. Since the material is fairly thin, you can even line the interior of the cabinet. Once you do the cheaper things, I'd sit back and enjoy!

  7. I would caution that the author needed to move his SPL numbers higher to get the heating effect. Playing in the 1 watt range will not cause any heating. But as far as generalizing, he did a good job. Once again, a good case for buying Klipsch speakers if you want a more "realistic", you are there sound for instruments. Especially solo instruments.

  8. Well, I'll give you some good ideas. First you can't apply these ideas to a digital Class D amp or a marketing hype class T amp[:P]. Tthe size of the power supply will determine the current capacity, also, you want to look through the top heat vents and look at the transistors attached to the main heat sink, if they are all 1/4 inch square in size, they are the standard HT reciever type (low to midrange current) devices, if they are around 1.25 inch in size (square), then you have high current devices. I have found that almost all of the time, the manufacturers with high current devices put in high current diodes as they are very inexpensive. Capacitors I would not worry about, in that most of the companies that build quality amps, put in a high quality power circuit throughout. It is really a matter of just paying a reputable company the higher price for a good product. For example, Sony, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC and most Yamaha HT recievers have run of the mill power supplies in them. Most of the pre-amp/amp manufacturers have the larger power supply circuit in them, so they are much more expensive. Remember, this is all generalizing of course. I hope it helps!

    Oh, I talk current in the above example, only because again, the higher dollar equipment usually has the higher voltage that you want for better performance. This being the main reason you get better slam out of higher end equipment. It is not because of higher current. (I love goring that old ill-informed worn out ox.......)

    If anyone wants all of the above in engineering terms with pictures, please see Dr. Who. I'm way to overworked to do the heavy lifting![:D]

  9. With Klipsch speakers, I always like to increase the bass some. I would move the sub crossover higher if you can and that might help. Worst case you can turn the treble down. It really all depends on your room. Also, do not turn the Klipsch up on the reciever as loud as you turned the old speakers. I have seen MANY, MANY people demo Klipsch incorrectly. They listen to the 89db/watt speaker and then switch over to Klipsch at 100 db/watt and it is so loud it is harsh. Turn it down a tad and it starts to sound "right".

    Sheesh! Here I am giving away some of my hard learned "secrets"......

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