Jay L

All floor level speakers should be as close to 1.2 meters from the floor as possible. This means everything that isn't a height channel. It is okay to push surrounds up to 1.25 times the height of your main speakers. Being at ear height is ideal, when the system is calibrated properly, nothing will overload anything else. Also at no point should any speaker be closer than 3 feet (5 feet or more is ideal).

We have had one since it was available to purchase in one of our listening rooms. Never a single problem out of it. It was replaced with an 80.3, and no problems with those either.

I guess I should defer everyone to the latest guide. I have a guide from a while back, apparently they have changed their mind on the layout guides. All the newer guides (3 releases newer since the one I have) do not have near the detailed information.

I read it straight from Dolby guide I have. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Thanks Jay...just so I understand correctly...if my mains are 10' apart, then my IC speakers should be between 5' and 7' apart? I had based my spacing on the below graphic from Dolby which shows them spaced at the same width as the mains. Dolby 7.1.4 Graphic_Page_22.jpg CorrectSent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Your IC speaker locations are a bit off. They should be .5 -.7 x width of the front left and right mains. They should also be as close as possible to 45 deg. from the MLP when looking at a side view. From front to back IC speakers should be .5 x length of the front mains to the back surrounds. Hope that helps.

Also unless your rear DEAS channels are on the side surrounds, you want Dolby REAR, not Dolby Surround. The Denon manual does call that out. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Nismo, that sucks your Denon went down. With any AVR you want the verbiage Dolby when selecting height channels. Onkyo calls them out correctly, they use Dolby Enabled Speaker. Obviously location is followed in parenthesis in the menu. I used a Denon 5200 when I was at Dolby labs. I was confused for a minute, until I thought about the options. Dolby folk hanging round confirmed what I had picked so I am very confident that is correct. I just read the Denon manual and it even contradicts itself about 4 pages apart. We considered putting something about this in our manuals. It was just to exhausting to cover every single name from every AVR. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

That is not a correct configuration when using Dolby Enabled Atmos Speakers. You should always use the "Dolby" + location with those speakers. The "TOP" selections are for in/on ceiling. The "Front Height", "Rear Height" are for legacy upmixers, or other 3D speaker layouts.

I have not A/B'd them with a real time switcher. I do not have time right now or I would set that up. There is an appreciable difference from memory. I know in the direct axis the integrated is a big step up. It also has more bass output if that is important to anyone. If I haven't said it before, the direct axis is what you hear while sitting down. The less of it, the better.Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Power cable: How can replacing the last 3 feet of cable make any difference when there is several feet of other cable running back to the breaker? Mind you this other cable is thrown about and probably has a boatload of noise on it. Speaker wire: Not going to matter under 50 ft. Use appropriate size, and move on. Amplifiers: This is one I feel there are differences in. I would qualify this by saying I have seen measureable differences along with the audible ones I have heard. If two amplifiers measured the same, not sure you could hear a difference. It comes down to your pocket, your ears. If you hear a difference, and are happy, then it is good. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

There really is no such one button solution out there. There is a lot of solutions, all of which accomplish similar tasks. I know a couple options for server/client. I use a windows 7 box with shared folders which contain music and movies. The clients are running openelec OS, which is bare minimum Kodi(xbmc). The other software I have used is JRiver Media Center. This can be used on both server and client, very smooth and awesome software. You must use all windows machines for a really good JRMC experience. For ripping I use MakeMKV for all Blu-ray/dvd. Love that software. For music I have used EAC for what seems like the past 20 years. Combo that with straight FLAC encoders on the fly and it rips pretty flawlessly every time. If you want to eliminate the oppo at any point u will need a decryptor software to ru 24/7 in the background when you throw in a brand new movie. I gave a generic overview. I can be more specific should you have questions. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

I am glad someone noticed this feature. We put some effort into that whole input cup. The mounting, angles for banana plugs, network attachment, etc. We wanted full use of the binding post while being somewhat stealth when using banana plugs.Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Because research by Dolby indicated that placement worked good. The angle of the speaker has to do with the reason for placement. I just left Dolby labs of Burbank. Great experience, we left a lasting impression with our Atmos system. I know we did, because we made pieces fall out of their ceiling. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

DaveWJr is a wire aficionado. All the loose wire in the lab is now braided! We tease him as being a closet wire freak! haha If I take money out of my pocket for wire it is the cheapest 16-14ga stuff I can find at Lowes or Menards. But do put it on those little Barbie tables to keep it off the floor.

I could tell you exactly how to make just a standard speaker better, but I can't without permission. What I would tell you would literally be reading the spec book. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

non issue in my experience

Dolby has two different guidelines for two very different applications(Home/Cinema). In smaller spaces you can easily use smaller speakers, which we all know. What I think people are forgetting is in the home the sweet spot is WAY smaller than a cinema. Because of this you don't need massive surrounds or height channels to cover multiple rows of seating. I think there is way way too much concentration being put on the DAES height channels. The Dolby Atmos Enabled Speakers are just one way for a consumer to get the effect. If you don't want to cut holes in your ceiling, or bolt a speaker overhead then this is the way to go. I am not trying to convince anyone that these two models are the best thing since sliced bread. What I can tell you is they work, and they work really well. Anyone wanting to DIY an up-firing style speaker, best of luck to ya. I highly recommend you pay very close attention to products already on the market and copy some of the details.

Our recommendation is a 150Hz crossover for the RP-140SA. It can be lower if you aren't running 200W to the speaker. We error on the safe side so don't be alarmed by the higher number. The crossover is near 2k for both models. The RP-280FA height channel can be crossed at 80Hz. The RP-140SA speaker works the same no matter what location it is used in. My point regarding the rear direct axis was in reference to a requirement by Dolby. It is more a comment about speakers in general. I can only say so much depending on what information they (Dolby) have told the public. I need to seek out what has been released, and what is held close so I don't overstep my bounds. I have a spec book, but 90% is not for everyone's eyes.

Ah ha!, somebody is putting some actual thought into this. Wavelengths larger than the cone diameter becomes less directional the lower you go. The nearest speaker can actually pick up the bass depending on chosen crossover point. The two models were designed similar to a standard 2-way, while applying the required Dolby IP. The directivity of our direct axis is really good compared to others on the market. You also have to pay attention to what is spraying on the back of the speaker. This will hit the nearby wall and give off more direct axis information as well. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

I have the RP-280FA in front, so the Atmos channels are built in. I wanted to use the RP-140SA as a surround to showcase it in other uses. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Part of what makes it work is not getting too much direct axis information. If you hear info from the speakers position, it destroys the effect. Not just any speaker can be canted back and fired toward the ceiling.

No offense taken at all. I am trying to encourage people to try Atmos. If you don't like the up-firing approach, we have a ton of other speakers we can sell you. I have been at Klipsch just under 15 years if that matters. I have had a home theater since 1995. I have always had "big" speakers, and I always will. Trust me when I say I know where you guys are coming from, I get it. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

For never hearing it, there is a lot of negative comments regarding the capabilities of speakers APPROVED by Dolby to accomplish this effect. They wrote the spec, we meet it. Our Atmos speakers are exceeding things other companies could not accomplish, yet our stuff is taking a beating without hearing it.

If they find Atmos a joke, then they did not receive a proper demo.