Paragon

Ya.. I love it. Will do a villin frame in about 35 seconds so a bit over an hour for a WU. Hope ya get your home system folding soon - good luck.

Most places pay for BB so a lot of them will be the same layout. I think some are hosted by the company they pay while some get the scripts

hmm.. missed this post.. I probably just joined when you checked so the server was not updated. Check now. I have been ard at Folding on my 1GHz.. I figured I'd search for you and it looks like you are slackin a little.. *nudge nudge*

What's with the bold and large font? Loaded with sugar?

quote: Originally posted by SomeGuy15: Read the page totalkaos linked to. It clearly shows that the placebo effect in action. Ahh yeah.. the placebo... sugar pill anyone?

With the sat fadin in and out sound like it might be due to teh mini jack. Check the connection to the sat - twising it should make the volume fade so find the spot of max volume. Else, you might want to send Amy an email: Amy ProMedia Tech Support promediatech@klipsch.com

ermm.. if anyone has bothethe 4.1 and 4.2.. they must have money burning in their pockets. As for wattage.. the 4.1 is 400W.. the 4.2 is 2 2.1 @ 200W each = 400W so they are the same. There have been many posts about 4.1 vs. 4.2 - use the search feature of the BB. Also..it is true power..

I would give it at least a foot or two.. probably 2. The magnetic field is quite large For soundwise.. I would just keep the sub near the floor and the room acoustics will probably help it our more when it is in a corner on the floor than if it were up the wall. Remember.. magnets are bad for tubes.

I doubt you heard static and crackling all the time.. anyway.. it would not be due to the wires. The only static I get is when rotating the jacks on the back of the sats <4.1> which I don't do all the time while listening to music. I don't see how static/crackling could come out all the time.. oh well.. Im glad your wire mod did work. My sets works well enough and I dont have the time nor the money to change the wires at the mement.

OutPatient.. there is nothing wrong with Klipsch.. The speakers are fine.. yes a few mods help the quality.. but what would the price be if they did these changes? The speaker wire does its job.. you hear wonderful music..right? then the wires work. There is always room for improvement in everything.. I think Klipsch know what they are doing and I highly doubt there are no Idiots working there.. so zip it.

BASH is just a sticker.. nothing really exciting

You will notice the hight FPS when your card gets bogged down and your FPS drop down. As for 24fps in the theatre.. the reason why it looks good is because of motion blur - which video cards don't do Also.. forget the GF2 cards now.. GF3MX will be coming out and will be better than GF2Ultra at around $150-$200 ------------------ All Your Base Are Belong To Us ------------------------------------- 1GHz TBird Abit KT7A-RAID FOP38 & CuShim Kingmax 256MB PC150 Annihilator2 32MB GTS Intel Pro100+Management NIC Promise Ultra100 IBM 75GXP 45GB ATA100 & Maxtor DMP6800 27.2GB ATA66 Plextor 16X10X40A Sony 12X DVD SBLive! 5.1 AOpen HX08 Full Tower 300W Sony CPD-G400 19" Triny ProMedia 4.1

There should be an autodetect selection in the BIOS.. They should be autodetected in BIOS if setup correctly. What other type of Hardware do you have If they are detected in Device Manager tab then things should be fine. Which drives do you have? Some can handle DMA mode.. some can't. Most likely.. the DVD will handle it fine so make sure that is checked as for the CD-RW.. My new Plextor 16X handles it fine.. my old Sony CRX100E did not handle DMA mode. ------------------ All Your Base Are Belong To Us ------------------------------------- 1GHz TBird Abit KT7A-RAID FOP38 & CuShim Kingmax 256MB PC150 Annihilator2 32MB GTS Intel Pro100+Management NIC Promise Ultra100 IBM 75GXP 45GB ATA100 & Maxtor DMP6800 27.2GB ATA66 Plextor 16X10X40A Sony 12X DVD SBLive! 5.1 AOpen HX08 Full Tower 300W Sony CPD-G400 19" Triny ProMedia 4.1

I'm looking at gettign the HD496.. they look great and sound great from what I have read. Impedance is 32 Ohm. I will probably build an Altoids headphone amp over the summer. ------------------ All Your Base Are Belong To Us ------------------------------------- 1GHz TBird Abit KT7A-RAID FOP38 & CuShim Kingmax 256MB PC150 Annihilator2 32MB GTS Intel Pro100+Management NIC Promise Ultra100 IBM 75GXP 45GB ATA100 & Maxtor DMP6800 27.2GB ATA66 Plextor 16X10X40A Sony 12X DVD SBLive! 5.1 AOpen HX08 Full Tower 300W Sony CPD-G400 19" Triny ProMedia 4.1

y'll jumped all over this post. I know.. there have been too many like it The new crossovers are in the sats and like those used in the 2.1s which are better than the old ones in v.2-400. If you like your v.2-400.. keep them. There is no need to have the latest of everything.. If you can't live without the 4.1, then sell your v.2-400 and buy the 4.1 - that simple.

forget stable.. you need the KT7A for the new Birds. As for HSF.. I have an FOP38 and it is LOUD. My suggestion.. don't go by looks or by the fan it comes with. Chances are you won't see it when it is in your case ans who really cares how it looks.. as long as it is fast. As for the fan, you can put an 80mm fan on pretty much any HS and it will be quieter and preform better than the Delta. That aside.. the best HS reviews are ones where they put the same fan on them all.. most reviews stick the Delta 7k RPM fan on the HSs. If you don't move your case around that much.. you can get away with the alotted 300g for a HSF. The Cu HedgeHog always performs well and the new HS from GW is good too New Vantech is good too but has a fan louder than the Delta. Also.. the swiftech is good. just remember.. become friends with an 80mm HO case fan and enjoy http://www.virtualhideout.net - check out the reviews look at http://www.hardocp.com too there are many reviews out there

Or you mess the paint on the screws up or strip the heads.. then they might be able to. Just don't leave anything in there while it is open..

MUAHAHAHA.. nice animation.. nice movement of the drivers.

No.. overdriving does.. Does it hurt your ears to listen to regular volumes.. or twice as loud? The sats have no problem with handling the 60W.

quote: Originally posted by 440CUDA: Ahhh this sounds better,one more question,are the front speakers suppose to sound louder then the rears? Depends on how you want it to sound. Since all four sats are the same, they have the capability to play as loud as each other. with the surround set at 12 o'clock, tbe fronts will be louder than the rears.. I have mine set pretty much to max.. so the fronts and rears are pretty even with a little more coming from the fronts. You can always use the fade setting for your sound card to adjust it som more. I generally like the sound to be even so I am in the middle of music as it sounds like it is all around me evenly. Really up to you tho.

It is all in what you pasted.. just read. "stopped production of the original v.2-400" - translation: The v.2-400 are no longer in production.. "has shifted to an updated 4.1 system" - translation: the 4.1 is the new system "uses the updated crossover network found in their new 2.1 system and the new CP-1 pre-amp" - translation: It includes the better crossovers and does include the CP-1 The v.2-400 has not been renamed anything since the 4.1 is a different version of it. You will know if you have the 4.1 system: 1) it usually states that you are buying the 4.1 system 2) The Box has 4.1 on it 3) the CP-1 is included

nice.. but add lights.. lots of them.. that is too dark.. hard to see. Also, are you going to make the drivers move? It would be cool to have visible sound waves like TheKillerBean and Matrix with the bullets.

It wont be the same if you make your own special adapter as I had mentioned in my previous post. As for the modes/5.1, are you using analogue in cause you dont get any 5.1 that way? I would not even worry about Movie mode.. I don't even use that stuff. Just listen to the movies how they are and enjoy the bass.

How did you make the images tho?

I know what you mean.. I have my TV on the right side of my speakers, so the rights would be fronts and the lefts woudl be rears, but at the moment, only have a mono hookup to my computer so all speakers are the same. I have been trying to think up a way to do it to where I dont have to have any switched between the sub and sat connections. I wish there was a way to do it thru Creative SoundMixer. The easiest way would probably be to forget about the sound card and make a splitter/adapter that puts the TV output into two mono right and left. Then connect these mono to the speaker inputs that are normally in your soundcard. Would have to make a few custome splitters but it is possible.