bchulett

I've also had a pair of 1980 Cornwalls since new. After remodeling, buying new oak furniture and refinishing the hardwood floors a few years ago, I decided to go black. They match my HT system now... the finish came out flawless. See the pic in this thread... http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/683605/ShowPost.aspx

Here's my original Cornwall Is... I purchased these new in 1980. They're flawless...

Thank you, I appreciate the feedback... I sent Bob Crites (BEC) a PM last night. What's a K-55V? I can't imagine my Cornwalls sounding better than they do now, but from what I've read in several posts, the upgrades are significant to say the least. Thanks again, Bob

Greetings, My Cornwalls haven't been touched or opened up since new... I was supposed to have opened these up and posted pics by now but haven't allocated the time---I'll get to that part eventually. However, my question is related to updating these after 25 years. I'm not a technical person, so any help or pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated. Thanks, Bob

Sorry to hear of the carnage... using a belt sander can be risky. When I was a kid my dad decided he wanted to refinish the natural birch cabinets in the kitchen. The first mistake was deciding to refinish... the second was to listen to the so-called experts at the hardware store. My dad was a perfectionist... after thoroughly sanding the varnish he went on to oil-stain the Birchwood cabinets in Walnut, which turned out very blotchy. After he was completely done the cabinets looked like crap. He found out the Birchwood had been coated with some sort of clear sealer that impregnated the wood. To salvage the job it took gallons of Jasco, carefully scraping with a putty knife and hand sanding multiple layers to remove the newly stained Birchwood and sealer... I know, I had to help. I guess the moral of the story is use extreme patience... and get rid of the belt sander. There's no satisfactory substitute for hand block-sanding. BTW, I finished my Birchwood Corns in black... and used spray cans. You could never tell I did these in my garage without gun and a booth...

Did a search and didn't find anything... I have a Yamaha DSP A-1 connected to a KSW 200 using the Subwoofer Mono jack. The KSW is sitting next to my right Cornwall... and I was curious how to determine the optimum settings on the subwoofer. The Yamaha subwoofer jacks have built-in high cut-off filters (90 Hz). The manual says to set the SW high-pass on max. So I set the KSW on 80 Hz, but would appreciate some insight on the other settings. What's optimum with Cornwalls? SW Options: Phase: 0 or 180 (degrees) AV +3db: On or Off High Pass: 40Hz or 80Hz Low Pass: 40Hz - 120Hz Level: 1 - 11 Thanks.

Danny, thanks for the info... yes, they sound excellent and the finish turned out surprisingly factory like. I hope this isn't taboo among this group, but when I finally decided to finish them, I wanted to match my new Klipsch "satin black" home theatre speakers. After a full prep, I spray applied 4 coats of epoxy black. Then sprayed 12-coats of Varathane clear satin... with a light color sand between each coat. The depth turned out excellent... they match my new Klispch speakers perfectly. I wanted my vintage Klipsch Cornwalls flanking the modern Klipsch theatre ensemble with a subtle but profound influence... I'm hopelessly nostalgic at heart. Regards, Bob ---------------- On 3/23/2005 7:50:11 PM dbflash wrote: Its simple to take the backs off. I bet even when you remove all the screws the back will not fall off. You will have to pull on the terminal strip (where the speaker wires attach) to pry it out. The nice thing about Klipsch is they made the wires that attach to the terminal strip to the crossover long. Once you get the back off you will be able to lay the back panel on the left side of the speaker so you don'y have to hold it. On your left you will see the crossover. It will say Type something. Mine says Type B. The Top Horn (tweeter) maybe K-77 The Middle Horn (midrange) maybe K-55-V The bottom is the woofer. It may say K-33-E Once you are done writing all this down, put the back panel in place and start putting all those screws back into place. Don't put alot of torque on them because you don't want to strip them. Removing the panel is very easy. Your speakers sound beautiful and I know they sound Great. danny ----------------

Mike, suddenly I feel like Geraldo Rivera uncovering Al Capones vault... I'm so embarrased. All these years I thought they were plastic. I will proceed and open one of the Cornwalls for my public hazing. I appreciate all the responses and help... I feel smarter now. On the bright side, I'm a proud original owner of Klipsch Cornwall speakers. Bob ---------------- On 3/23/2005 8:29:11 PM Good2BHome wrote: Bob, If they are a little rough or pebbled with about a 1/8" - 1/4" seam down each side then they are most probably metal. The metal Midrange horns were made from two aluminum (I assume) cast halves that were "welded" together. Tap it with a Quarter. Everone here has learned a great deal from the Forum, so don't feel bad about any question, when you're trying to learn. I have saved many threads over the years to be sources of information and it's humorous to read some of the posts by the the current "gurus". They learned here too. Now, you are still required to take the back off to complete you initiation to the black art of speaker tweaking. Mike ----------------

Mike, something tells me I really have metal midrange horns... if I do please forgive my ignorance regarding Klipsch speakers. ---------------- On 3/23/2005 2:35:33 PM Good2BHome wrote: I have one question before you start. Is the surface of the mouth of the Midrange horn Smooth or pebbled (a little rough)?? If it is Smooth proceed to removing the back and opening them up. If it is pebbled/a little rough let us know first. ----------------

Mike, will do. I'm not at home right now, but I'm pretty sure the midrange horn is pebbled or rough... like they came from an unfinished mold as you describe. It sounds and feels like thick plastic when I tap on it... its definitly not formed sheet metal that was painted. If it is metal, it looks like cast aluminum or magnesium. If I recall you can see the mold seem. Should I proceed? BTW, I can save the pics to a shared folder on Yahoo and provide a link or upload them. Which is more preferable? Bob ---------------- On 3/23/2005 2:35:33 PM Good2BHome wrote: Bob, Silversport's description about covers it. I have one question before you start. Is the surface of the mouth of the Midrange horn Smooth or pebbled (a little rough)?? If it is Smooth proceed to removing the back and opening them up. If it is pebbled/a little rough let us know first. Removal information: The screws around the edge of the speaker are all that need to be removed. The wire, from the connection on the INSIDE back to the crossover, is #18 lampcord, very sturdy stuff with sturdy connectors. Just look and go slow and you will have no problems. After the back is off, if you decide to disconnect the wire (which is not necessary), do it at the crossover, that will be the easiest. Each of the 4 components will have a model #. On the drivers it will be on the back of the magnet. What "should" be there is K-77 Tweeter, K-55 Mid, K-33 Woofer. The Crossover's # will be on a metal strip on the EDGE of the crossover's plywood body and "should" be "B2". Since we think this is an "experimental" Cornwall with a plastic horn all of the "shoulds" may not be so. A single picture, which is as close to the open back as possible and yet still includes all 4 of the above elements, will probably be good enough, but take as may as seems necessary while you have it open, since this is listening down time! Just post the one picture here first and if we have other questions the other pictures will be available. All of this will be interesting, but what I'm most interested in seeing, is the plactic horn. Is it a K-601 or ??? Mike ----------------

Mike, okay I guess I'll need to go through my hazing. This is going to be painful. Anything I should know before removing the panel and closing it back up? What pics are essential for identifying the components? Can you identify them visually? Or do they have part numbers? Sorry for all the questions. Plus, the speaker connection on the top of the panel, will that need to be removed? I'm assuming there are wires running to it from inside... it has a weird sort of block with screw and nut connectors. Do all Cornwalls have this? I don't want to take the panel off and disturb the connection inside. Any advice would be appreciated. Bob ---------------- On 3/23/2005 7:57:43 AM Good2BHome wrote: Bob, the chances are excellent!! Klipsch made running changes and backed off many times, experiments, parts availability, etc. Removing / replacing the backs will not harm the speakers, just go slow and the necessary moves should be obvious, (in fact it is part of the secret induction to the Klipsch Forum). Klipsch production information is like peeling an onion. Mike ----------------

Michael, I think I have clarity on the SN issue. And you're correct, the SNs are stamped on the edge of the back panels... right above the speaker connections. They also have "USA" stamped on the same edge but in the right upper corner. I don't know what I have in midrange drivers (you mean horn right?) or tweeters... how would I find out? I guess I need to remove the back panel take pics and post them. What's a Cornwall 1.5? Thanks, Bob ---------------- On 3/20/2005 4:26:31 PM colterphoto1 wrote: Do you have K57 or K55 midrange drivers? K77 or K79 tweeters? Also the serial number may be stamped on the back edge of the top panel. Letters are about 3/8" high. That might clarify the SN question. If have K57 and or K79 with removeable back cabinet yours is one of the Cornwall 1.5's, but I think that occured in the mid 80's. Michael- a Cornwall collector ----------------

Dodger, Thanks for the suggestions... to say that I like the overall sound is an understatement. I'm on a raised foundation with hardwood floors. My Cornwalls can make the whole house vibrate when pushed. When I use DSP, let's say when playing Nora Jones in concert at the Roxy Theatre, I feel she's sitting right in front of me. The only thing I've considered is better isolating the speakers from the floor... like maybe retrofit adjustable isolators similar to the ones I have on my Lovan racks and surround stands. Right now they still have the round metal feet embedded in the wood.. the way they came from the factory. Any ideas? Thanks, Bob ---------------- On 3/21/2005 4:39:49 PM dodger wrote: Greetings: Since it has been established that you have Cornwalls, by the "u" and removable back the best things to do are check all coonections. Look for any Oxidation, loosening, check your crossovers - any leaking caps, Oxidation. Some say add some internal bracing to what is there to reduce resonance. Check the search for Cornwall mods and see if there is anything that may strike your fancy. Are you happy with the overall sound? dodger ----------------

Mike, An experimental set?... what's the chances of that happening? I realize I said I never removed the back panels before, but if I recall correctly, many years ago before finishing them, I believe I did briefly remove the back panel on just one out of curiosity---just to take a peek. To tell you the truth, I wouldn't know what to look for anyway. I would like to know what's inside, but I don't know if I should take the chance and remove the rear panel. These basically have not been disturbed... the only time they've been moved was into the garage for a brief period to finish them. As soon as I get the courage, I'll post some pics. Thanks! Bob ---------------- On 3/21/2005 4:15:04 PM Good2BHome wrote: What you have is an Klipsch experiment. I own 3 pairs of Cornwalls, 2 of them "U" 1980 Models. And have owned several others over the years. The serial numbers for my 1st pair starts 24U753. The serial numbers for my 2st pair starts 25U700. This brackets your pair. Both my pair have metal horns. All the records I have show that the K601 plastic horn did not enter production (emphasize production) until some time in 1984. I've been tracking Cornwalls for years. It would be interesting and helpful to know what drivers and crossover you have?? Have you taken the backs off and looked inside? Pictures would help, if you interested. Mike ----------------

Do you mean replace the Cornwalls with RF-7s ? ... or use the 1.5s for front effects? I actually purchased the extra pair of 1.5s to use for front effects but never installed them. Thanks. ---------------- On 3/19/2005 7:51:48 PM 3dzapper wrote: Keep the 1.5s for when you move up to 7.1 IMO YMMV. ----------------