[Sunfire Theater Grand IV w/ Sunfire 200 x 7 Amp FIXED with Klipsch KA 1000 amp and KW 120 Subs! YES!!]

Indy, thanks for the reply.

Yes, I have the TGIV - you have the latest firmware too?

I figured when it got to the certain distance it would jump by increments, I just don't understand why it wouldn't do it equally.

I have tried to call customer support, and I have never been able to get someone to call me back after having to leave a message...

I will try to unplug it...hadn't thought about that, but I am pretty sure that I have already done that after flashing the software...

Check your software, I am thinking it is a glitch in the new update...

Thanks,

K

[Heresy II problems]

Hmmm...

I am not entirely sure what that problem could be, usually IME, is that if the horn is out - it is out, not coming on just when the volume is turned up...

There are several things I would check - first, make sure the wiring is all attached and working right, that almost sounds to me like a short someplace - if the wiring inside is all good...then I certainly would replace the diaphragms on the horn, which is actually a very easy procedure (if they are anything like the tweeter diaphragms - which I have replaced 5) - and they are still available I beleive - do a search for Bob Crites on this forum, and he can set you up with the parts and instructions to redo the diaphragms for the horns...

I suggest that you look at reworking the crossovers by replacing the capacitors too at some point, even at 16 years old I think they could problably use a refeshing - search for Heresy II crossovers here in the forum, and you will find lots of information - Bob is the man for those parts too.

Hope this helped, welcome to the forum.

K

[Sunfire Theater Grand IV w/ Sunfire 200 x 7 Amp FIXED with Klipsch KA 1000 amp and KW 120 Subs! YES!!]

Hey Indy,

Since this thread has resurfaced - I had a question for your Sunfire guys on the distance setting in the TGIV -

I have worked very hard resetting all of my stuff, and with the help of a trusty assistant and tape measure, I had my front RF-7's equidistant from the listening sweet spot - now the weird thing -

I went into the distance settings on the TGIV, and I tried to set the distance of the fronts the same - and I couldn't do it - the TG would NOT let me set the speakers at the same distance - I could set 12'8", then it would jump to 13' even, but the other speaker would only go 12'10" to 13'4" - in other words it jumps at that distance by 3-4" inches and not the same in each channel? I have updated to the latest firmware (X.23) - could you guys try this and conform what I am getting?

I tried to e-mail getech, but received no response; I thought that might be easier than making a separate post here, but ...

Thanks,

K

[Who bought the poster?]

Got mine in the mail today. Nice, and bigger than I thought, just not huge.

Off to the framers.

Don't know the number, didn't open it past pulling it out a couple of inches; heavy stock looks good, and just as illegible.

B

[Does anyone have experience with black stain (on oak)?]

Hey RFP,

My 2c, for what it is worth...I refinished a single birch HEresy not

too long ago, was stained badly, I sanded it down, but the brown stain

went too deep, so I decided to make them black - the stain that i used

was the darkest ebony I could find, but it still (even after preparing

the wood with stain sealer) came out lighter than I wanted (kind of a

black tinted mocha, with the original dark brwon oak stain coming out

here and there) I wanted pitch black with some grain showing -

kind of like my black RF-7's - anyways...

I used black wood DYE, which I found at a local Woodcrafters, it was

pitch and soaked into the wood nicely..I followed up with a coat of

Watco that I sanded in, re-dyed where necessary, and it came out a very

black satin with a low sheen, but I am sure that followed up with

laquer, it would do quite nicely as a shiny surface. Wood grain

intact, no problems with hardwood splotchy spots, and a nice lustre to

boot. A littel dye goes a long way, brush it on the inside and

leave it, no painting necessary - and no chance of overspray either.

Just my experience - I guess it depends on how dark you want it?

K

[Brand new (black) T-shirt design--60th anniv!]

Jeff! Hey man, long time no see -still want to see that all CW HT

... I have been collecting the components to finish one myself

one of these millennia -

Oh and read the thread dude! I had my LSD and figured out "Celebrating 60 Legendary Years" several pages back!

And there IS a poster - mine is on its way - from drowning creek studios at

www.drowningcreek.com

They are pretty smallish, about the size of the picture on the shirt, so beware!

K aka B

[Brand new (black) T-shirt design--60th anniv!]

Nope, mine was FedEx box too - and the box said it required signature - but here, that jus don matter much...

I like the T's, very cool..and quite unreadable - I figured them out

however, "Celebrating 60 Lengendary Years" is the worst - but the

"Bullsh!t" was pretty funny...

And I thought the same thing - FedEx?

K

[FREE Yamaha Turntable - Just pay shipping]

I have a Sui 9090 and a pair of Corns that would just be made made for this bear.

Lets see if I was first, I tend to doubt it!

Bruce

[FREE Yamaha Turntable - Just pay shipping]

I responded via PM - I want it!

Bruce

[Has anyone seen this on-line "dealer"??]

Guter Nachmittag, Kamerad Colter!

I just don't understand why it would be so difficult for Klipsch to

shut this practice down if they really wanted to, and I do not

understand how they would be able to differentiate between grey market

and authorized dealer sold speakers - despite what Colter says, even

though they probably have little alien homing devices under the evil

bucking magnets that watch you from the tuning ports...

Authorized dealers buy more speakers than they can move in order to

maintain their authorized sales label, and secondarily sell to the grey

guys - I can understand that - but wouldn't it be as easy for a company

mole (such as Amy-no offense) buying a pair of cheap speaks from the

grey guys, getting the speakers in, and tracking down the serial

numbers to the authorized dealer leaking these speakers? But what

the hell do I know...I may be just wacked into thinking Klispch really

turns a blind eye to this, as I can't even figure out which speaker

cable to use

Anyways, just curious - didn't mean to hijack the thread - just musing on this lousy Monday.

K

[Has anyone seen this on-line "dealer"??]

Ok, tell me how this works - Klipsch has "authorized" dealers, and

those dealers purchase speakers at wholesale, right? They are required

by their purchaser agreement to only sell at a certain price,

etc., but they can guarantee Klipsch customer support -

The speakers are all serial numbered, which should make tracking them an easy affair.

SO, how does an "unauthorized" reseller get their hands on these

speakers? Surely they aren't buying them at retail cost and then

reducing them -20% just for giggles - they are obviously purchasing

wholsesale from somewhere - which only leaves two possibilities -

a) They are buying them from "authorized" dealers after those dealers

purchase a big lot of speakers - a secondary market as it were, make a

bit on each unit sold wholesale plus -

OR

Klipsch is selling these speakers directly wholesale to anyone who

orders them, but only will give support to those folks who are on their

"authorized" dealer list - but in that way sell more speakers.

Now under scenario a), it would be rather impossible for the company to

say what is and what isn't an authorized seller's speaker, as the

serial numbers would only be traceable to an "authorized" dealer - and

who could say where they went from there, if they kept the paperwork

intact? Yet, when you call Klipsch customer service, they can

pretty much tell you from the serial number, whether the speaker is

grey market or from the authorized dealer, can't they? Why keep

serial numbers if not to maintain inventory lists and distribution

data? Or do they just ask where you purchased them from, or

require a receipt from an authorized dealer?

So it seems more likely that scenario is the answer, downplaying the

obvious bite that it would otherwise cutting into the "authorized"

dealers, by not offering support of nay kind, but selling them cheaper

because of it? These unauthorized sellers on the Bay and

elsewhere have been around for a long time and they apparently receive

and sell al ot of grey market Klipsch stuff - new stuff too, so doens;t

that just kind of negate the whole "Klipsch will get all over them"

thing? Further, what kind of premium does the authorized dealer

pay for the Klisch "service" over just straight, take your chances,

wholesale lot? From the trip to AK, we saw that Klipsch has

relatively low failure rate in production quality, so woudn't the

gamble that service wouldn be unnecessary on the big speakers be a good

one?

Am I missing something here?

Just thinking out loud on Monday morning. Don't send the Klipsch commandos after me, really.

K

[FS: DVD-Audio Collection - instant collection for you!]

Art!

Long tome no see - why are you getting rid of these?

Hey I would be interested in several...and I have been in the neighborhood moving my buddy in down the road - saw the tropical plants, makes the pool look fantastic...

Give me a shout. I can PM you.

Bruce

[Banana Jacks]

I beleive the Chorus did have a recessed cup, and I am relatively

certain that the crossover would have been on the cup, but replacement

of the binding posts that I have done on my speakers with the cup

crossover was pretty easy, either the positive and negative were held

on with washers and screws around an eyelet, or (minimally) soldered on

the post - which can be easily removed with a desoldering tool and

resoldered - I would clean or rough up the connection just to remove

any corrosion (which is just me being picky) and solder the joint

carefully - so as not to run solder into the crossover components and

or melt the cup (can you tell I accomplished each?) The new parts

express binding posts were of course larger and beefier than the stock,

so I had to enlarge the holes in the plastic washers at the cup, easily

accomplished with my trusty Dremel and a fine file - and a bottle of

Labatts during Star Trek reruns. Worked well, looks good and the

beer was a bonus.

Oh, and I have some broken replacements - if you need them exact (Coy you instigator).

K

[Banana Jacks]

I enjoyed your post - very terse; short and to the point - but what do you want?

Are you looking for someone to offer replacements, or comment on where

you can get replacements? Or are you just wanting to vent your

frustration for not being able to locate exact replacements or the fact

that you (or someone) busted them off in the first place?

Personally, I think the binding posts on older Heritage are weak parts (busted one off myself),

and I would suggest you replace them with heavier duty all metal

binding posts that you could find on Parts Express (www.partsexpress.com). They are cheap-ish and a good upgrade that will not break very easily.

Just my 2c.

K

[FS: KSF-S5's]

Still haven't had any interest in these things, surely someone wants to complete their set?

Beautiful shape, white KSF-S5's for sale with ceiling Omnimounts, I would rather them go to some well

meaning folks on here then put them up for *gasp* auction...

So get back to me dammit.

K

[OT: GPS Units]

If you want specifics, I have a Garmin 60CS handheld GPS, and frankly I

couldn't mange without it - it has a nice color screen with about 56

meg of internal memory for maps and POI (which is frankly its biggest

drawback - there are other units out there that have far more memry, or

it is removeable, so you can load far more maps - BUT that being said,

I have currently loaded all of the maps for the DFW Metroplex to

Oklahoma, and all of the maps down 35 to Austin, with room to spare, so

I don't have a problem with it) - and the the auto navigation is tops,

with turn by turn (no silly voices - just beeps) directions - it is

water resistant but does not float (it does float but it is not

guaran-teed...personal experience here) and it is a rugged little

bugger - has compass and altimeter too. Ram Mounts are made

specifically for this model for car or boat, great mounts - I recommend

those too.

The water specific model (76C or CS) does float and has more memory, I think, but it is also bigger.

They have come out with a new 60CSx series which I beleive has a memory

card slot and faster satellite acquisition, but you will have to look

for that -

I suggest them pretty highly - around here, where everything looks

exactly the same and we have roads like 35W that actually goes south,

and 820 N that actually goes east west, it is a life saver sometimes- I

can see on a boat how it would definitely be indispensable.

Just 2c.

K

[Heresy 2 crossover]

Thanks as usual Bob -

Couple of follow up questions, I know that you suggest not bothering

loading up the binding pole cap with all of this stuff and just putting

these things on boards, do you think it is worth while replacing the

tiny inductors on this crossover? Is it necessary? They do

not look as robust as the inductors on say my Cornwall crossovers, but

I don't know the difference - and why are there three on this

thing? If I wanted to replace the #3504 on the diagram, what

would I be looking for - eg. value of mH, etc?

I have seen that you are using Sonicaps now, do you have a H2 kit

available for the DYI crossovers? Board, inductors, caps and wire

harness? AND placement on board instructions? Just a

thought _ I would really like to upgrade my new Heresy 2's too one of

these days, but that is on a PCB on the square binding pole cap - I think a little easier.

Thanks again,

K

[Heresy 2 crossover]

I am lining up the winter projects and I want to do a recap of my beat up garage H2's, but I cannot tell what the cap values are supposed to be - I was going to attempt to just go ahead and rig them on the black binding post caps as they are now, but I might just go ahead and put a board together - lots of parts on these too that I don't understand as follows:

3 blue rectangular caps

1 blue "can" cap (and has "15k" stamped up the side)

as well as 1 square and 1 small round wound AF's (which don;t need replacing, or should I?)

If anyone could give me the schematics or tell me what the cap values are in this crossover I would appreciate it...

K

[Heresy II's on stands]

Hey,

Do a search on the forum for Heresy risers, and you should find

everything you need - I know that there are dimensions and size

measurements on Cornwalls and Heresys here about - if I was close to a

pair of mine I would measure them for you!

The general thinking I have gleaned is that the Heresy works best on

the floor (for bass enforcement) and pointed upwards to angle the horns

more toward the listeners ears...I have Heresys in threee

configurations right now, on small, square double stacked end tables

(which positions the horns right at above ear level when sitting

-approx three to four foot in the air) for rear surrounds - on metal

wire risers, which have them about 12 inches off the ground and angled

upwards towards my ears as I sit in my listening chair, AND on standard

Klipsch risers. Only difference I hear is the varying bass

response, floor and angled being optimal. The various stand and

risers that you could buy are many, my tables I bought form IKEA (cheap

but relatively sturdy) and I stack them to the right height, place

sandbags in them to dampen vibration, and they work like a champ.

Also you may find a couple of aftermarket wood workers on EBAY that

make and sell Klispch risers for the Heresy and Cornwalls to original

specs.

Oh, and I love the in-your-face sound - you will either love it or hate

it, but it will be the most live sound you will ever hear, IMHO - Good

luck!

K

[U2's ZOO TV on DVD!]

I saw the Zoo TV tour concert in 1991 or 2 in Toronto way back in the

days - it was the wildest event I had ever been to, and that is saying

a lot.

Mysterious Ways, the phone call to George Bush, the huge screens, the

pre-concert interview videos - man, what a show...I have been a huge U2

fan from my college days, one of the first college discoveries I

made...haven't followed them much in the later years...

I felt about U2 like I did Sting (post Police) - I appreciated the raw

anger of the early protest music (Bloody Sunday), but their strength

(IMVHO) was the love songs, the yearning passionate almost simple love

songs (Wild Horses) - like some of the early Police tunes - I

mean I enjoyed "Angel of Harlem", and "In the Name of Love" but from

there, it started just going to crap in so many ways...

When Sting started doing the politically sensitive stuff, it just lost

my attention - there were good nuggets in all of the politcally

motivated music, but not enough for me to care...

Bad Live is the just the most fantastic U2 speaker test of them all -

play it often, replaced it three times from use - good stuff...

How is the latest album; How to Dismantle a Nuclear Bomb?

K

[FS: KSF-S5's]

Bump...

Surely someone can use these?

Bruce

[FS: KSF-S5's]

Hey,

I talked about getting rid of these a while back, but thanks to Mongster, I now have the RS7's to replace them...So...haven't heard from Dylan, and here they are for sale...

I have a pair of KSF-S5's for sale, they are white, and in good shape - I take exceptional care of my speakers, they have never been driven too hard and they look good - there is a little cosmetic corner damage but nothing noticeable and nothing to affect the drivers. Guaranteed no DOA, you local, you come listen.

The white of the speakers looks good against a ceiling - I do not have an idea of price on these things, but I do know that they do not come up for sale very often, so if you need them to round out your system, you should jump...Of course local pick-up preferred, but I can ship for actual cost where ever you may be in the CONUS; I have a knack for packing

I also have a pair of Omnimouts specifically designed for these things (fit the screw section in the backs) that I may include, if you are interested.

If you want picts or want to make an offer, e-mail me, and I will get back to you.

Thanks,

Bruce

[Sunfire 5X200 amp .5% distortion?]

Huh? I would love to read that article, post a link please.

I have run my 400/7 at full out both music and cinema, and never thought I had a problem with distortion from the amp?

Maybe someone can chime in on this, but it seems far faetched to me at

normal listening levels that even .5% distortion could cause audible

difference or fatigue?

Never had the problem with mine, so maybe I am just tone deaf.

K

[SACD is the real deal]

You know, I thought that too - that SACD was dead, and while there are

not a lot of current albums coming out on SACD, there seems to be no

end to the classical (both seemingly new and old remastered) being

issued in SACD, I am forever seeing ads from Acouctic Sounds, et al.

with new albums coming out on SACD - somebody is still buying them...

I think SACD is awesome, I am just sorry it took me so long to find

that out - hard to listen to some of my cds now after spending a great

deal of time with SACD - even the hybrid discs shoot themselves in the

foot, when you listen to the cd track and the SACD track right after

each other, you start to get the real perspective -

BUt I am with OB, this format jumping thing is crap and nonsense - pick the best format, and get on with it...

K

[I am the new one here in this nice Klipsch Forum..................]

Ok, the translation was pretty hilarious -

How many times does it refer to our German friend as "Werner tightness"

- very funny, and for some reason I thought of the tight curls on

Michael fro -

"Colter tightness"

Works for me!

Ok, question I have is the one photo of the Klipsch "priminister" that

black sinister looking speaker in the one photo - is that the "Premier"

that we have been hearing about? What does that bugger sound like

and do we have specs?

K