KT88

Agree with all posts. What is this little black box above the yellow 5 uF Mylar cap?

I forgot one more point, the best and spatially accurate speakers cannot sound good in this respect if they are not the same distance from your ears. I measure the distance from the wall to the speaker exactly, with a laser or a tape measure, so the inner distance and the outer distance which is further away by the angle. This sounds pedantic but it really helps.

Flevomann, my contribution is about the spatiality of listening, less about the volume of the bass. First of all, when the speaker is moved a bit away from the wall, it often sounds often more spatial, the sound can "breathe" better. But, for example, my Lascala are so deep themselves that they are against the wall. I would just experiment it where it sounds best within your margin. As for bass fullness, sometimes moving one of the speakers a few inches to the left or right on the wall works wonders. Just give it a try. Your room has a different resonance at each point and the effect is sometimes impressive. You can try with both speakers to move them a little to the left or right. I don't mean away from the wall or closer to the wall, just move them a little on the line, just a few cm. i don't know the CW4 but with other speakers, especially LaScalas but also big Tannoys and small LS3/5a i have learned the following effect concerning holography, imaging and soundstage. I don't angle the speakers as much as you do. With the Lascala, I can clearly see the inner sidewall from my listening position when I have the best effect for the stage. If the speakers are angled in too little (or even completely parallel), the stage becomes too wide and lose and two dimensional, like a line from left to right. But if I angle in so much that I only see the front of the speakers, it is no longer spatial, but everything overlaps which can be confusing and it allows not so good the listening of the placement of instruments. Just try to position both speakers in a way that you can still see the inner side wall and experiment with angling in a bit more or angling out a bit more. Sometimes it is good to listen to a position for a few hours, sometimes you know immediately when it is wrong or right. If you have found the right angle then try again to move the speakers closer to the wall or further away, we are talking just cm but you can try the extrem points of your scope at first. and then try the possibilities in between..

Prof. Sengspiel was a sound engineer and audio engineer. He passed away a few years ago and his heirs have fortunately decided to keep his website online, also in English. One of the best collections for most calculations and explanations in audio. http://www.sengpielaudio.com/Calculations03.htm Maybe good enough and helpful enough to be pinned permanently.

Thanks for posting, it looks great. Aside of measurements etc. what is your first impression re the bass performance? Is it perhaps more articulated in the upper bass region, but is it also with the same „feel“ of body even if it is lifted from the floor? or even more so? My first thought was it could sound a tad less „grounded“?

Ok, I admit that the definition of Oxford can be found repeatedly. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_German_languages I did not know that. Our current accent-free High German has its origins in Lower Saxony.

In principle, the Oxford definition is correct with the influence of Luther's Bible translation. But what is definitely not correct is the origin of High German that is given there. This must be a confusion of the meaning of the word "high". But in reality it has nothing to do with high landscapes or mountains. And because we have high mountains only in the south it is consequently a wrong localization. The real High German is spoken in Hanover, which is the capital of Lower Saxony, and that is flat lowland pretty much in the north. High German means that it is spoken at a "high" level understandable to all.

Dean, is it this town? The only one I have found via google maps with the name Speicher. Speicher https://maps.app.goo.gl/3Pm2z8aWqTb6MngV9?g_st=ic Which Opa did not like the Platt, the German or the US Opa? The German Opa may be was from another region by origin? Or the US Opa had bad memories from war time in Germany? „High German“ I did not know this expression in English. But in fact it is a one-to-one translation of the German word "Hochdeutsch". And so it is also used in English as I googled. It means a dialect free language. Before mechanization, no one from Bavaria would have been able to talk to someone from Hamburg or Cologne, the very different dialects are a symptom of centuries of small-scale statehood. Everywhere small princes with their compatriots. In addition, there was a rather strict separation of Catholic and Protestant areas with peculiarities of language, further on animosities e.g. between Swabians and Badeners or between Rhinelanders and Prussians. It was not until the middle of the 19th century that there were national movements striving for unification. Until the beginning of the 20th century, Bavaria was still against it. Only with the invention of the radio the language became more uniform. The radio broadcasts came in High German, which was then learned in each region. But the Platt, i.e. the dialects, were cultivated for a very long time because it also strengthened the regional identity and does it still today (then most are able to speak also High German. I like that every region has its own sound. That can be quite different here within 120 km, in the U.S. you have to drive from New York to Ohio.

I did not know you had Grundig gear in the States?

This is the joke of history. We talk about the cheapest caps and in a few years no one builds them anymore. In the 1960s and 70s in Germany in every kitchen radio and TV set were Telefunken ECC83 tubes (12AX7 for you). At that time price in today's money maybe 2 USD. Today 500 USD NOS.

I thought you were American, so you are in Canada or Mexiko? May be a tank full of gas were cheaper than shipping?

geoff. that is an impressive description of how you can not improve something good as long as the parts work, and how quickly you run the risk of replacing something that no longer works well but was right by something wrong if you are not careful. The problem is that from the old vintage speakers many of the Aerovox caps are gone and therefore the users don't have a benchmark in mind anymore. So they have the choice of either believing what Klipsch recommends today or believing more expensive replacements could only be better.

I'm honestly a little glad Aoran came forward with this thread so you really see the dimension of additional costs, same to Germany. My empathy and commitment to his situation has exactly to do with the fact that it was the same game re my costs and the search for alternatives. Therefore once again, if I were in the states it would have been a 10 second email to JEM and the case would have been settled. But no matter if I would be a millionaire or if I just make ends meet, I do not accept such shipping and customs costs. The crazy thing about this situation is that most people can't believe that in this case the cheap thing is the right thing.

and I would take 8.2 uF plus 4.7 uF to reach 12.9 uF. If you know someone who can read capacitance you will see there is tolerance of 0.6uF both caps together anyway.

yes, this are the ones I would take.

Sorry but I understand the forum in the way that I would like to help if I can contribute a little bit. If I and others here do not make an effort then at the end for the thread opener is statement against statement and opinion against opinion. For this reason it may have become a bit educational. But isn't that part of our hobby? I have a good feeling about the end now. Without the interaction of Dean, CBH, geoff., henry and others we would not now have the result that the thread opener has a good feeling what he is ordering and also that he has found a very lucrative regional source. The MKT will be fine...and if not @Aoran994 can always reorder the cheap Mundorf. If it sometimes takes 10 pages, then in this case it was a good 10 pages. We sometimes forget that some people are music lovers and technically not as knowledgeable as many others here in the forum.

Something to say against it if @Aoran994would order 8.2 uF plus 4.7 uF? That results in 12.9 uF and the deviation regarding 5% tolerance is + 0.33 uF and - 0.33 uF ?

Aoran, ok, but the Mundorf you want to order are no! MKT (Polyester) types they are MKP (Polypropylene) types. This is exactly the difference half of the whole thread was about. Even if it is a bit more expensive (but we have neared a good price in general finally when you order everything from this Italian website) I would order the MKT types, this yellow housebrand, because only those are similar to that what Klipsch sells and recommends themselves. If you will afford it you could buy the Mundorfs and the yellow MKT types and make your own comparison. The difference will not be only a change in sound (may be more metallic harsh with the Mundorf) but the balance and the timing of the whole speaker could be a bit out of tune. Even if the caps are intended to control the squaker and tweeter, they have influence how the bass will perform. I do not say that it will not work at all when using the Mundorf caps but after so much effort I would take the MKTs at least as the Alternative choice. We can discuss about the freedom of taste and choice, I only say that the MKT are electrically the right ones because of their properties. Funnily the cheapest Mundorf MKP will work better with the Khorn than the more expensive ones because the expensive ones may have an even lower ESR which is the opposite of our goal here but they are only a compromise. Only I imagine you listening for years to your pride and joy Khorns but because of a 10 € difference you never have experienced how the Khorn was intended to sound.

Thank you a lot, Dean. Here is an example of a shop where to buy the correct Jantzen part number in Italy. https://www.costruireaudio.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=000-1528 But @Aoran994may know better where to buy. Aoran, does it make sense what Dean also recommends, to buy the capacitors from Mouser and the coils like in my link above (or another supplier)? I just run over the numbers, and because the 1 uF capacitors cost 4 € each (you need 8 of them) you get about 65€ for all capacitors together. So the shipping is free at Mouser. (Only Italian VAT will be added). But then you have all the parts quite correctly in the electrical properties and the correct values. EDIT: By chance I have seen that this italian side offers also Polyester caps, It looks like a „house brand“ and I do not know what one could do wrong or less good when producing Polyester Caps. https://www.costruireaudio.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=6.8 uF On the other hand the website looks serious and you see reputed brands of caps for other purposes. So this yellow MKT capacitors are „in good society“. Could be even cheaper to buy those caps. (MKT = Polyester) BTW, in the end you have to know yourself what you like better, type A or type AA. You have read it, there are different tastes here, and that's good. With your parts you can very quickly turn a type AA into a type A xover and vice versa. Then you can listen to one for a whole day or week and then the other. Please come back to this forum or thread also when you have all installed because I guess that all here are curious what you think regarding the sound and which type A vs AA you personally may prefer. PS @geoff.Thanks for your link. We still have to get used to the fact that the British are no longer in the EU. It's now the same expensive hassle as buying something in the US or Japan. Gone are the days where I could buy good spark plugs from England via Amazon for almost half. the price..

Yes that’s what I also thought. A quick look shows several dealers for Jantzen coils over here in the EU. Having the info of 20 gauge @Aoran994 or I could calculate the thickness of the wire in mm by tomorrow, or you have a Jantzen parts number of the right coil, Dean?

Sorry @henry4841, Parts Express may be was the name, Unfortunately they have no office in Europe from where they could sell customs free goods. Here in the Link is all info when you scroll down. https://www.parts-express.com/shipping

The problem is that dealers like parts connection have no official office in Europe, so you must add expensive shipping, customs and VAT. Mouser has offices in different European countries, no warehouse, just the office and therefore all orders are without customs but only the German or Italian VAT. VAT is always the final addition, so when you pay for shipping e.g. 70€ then VAT of 19% in G. must be paid as the last step for everything. So, the best would be to find another supplier for the coils or even for the whole order who is based in Europe to get all out of one hand. Or do you already reach 50€ @Aoran994 at your order with mouser without the coils? Then I would order it and we look where to get the coils separately this side of the pond.

I really think, that this JEM capacitors are especially made for 2uF and 13uF. Even my order of conventional values was shipped from Texas.

In 2009 I got an xover from a third party supplier that I could easily switch from type A to type AA and vice versa with two contacts. I have already described what sounds better to me. My guess is that the lower overlap of the AA crossover improves the intelligibility of speech and sounds.

Randy, I like your post and you are certainly a Klipsch Forum veteran. But sorry, with your last post you only contribute to the uncertainty of the topic opener @Aoran994 1) In my view, and I know both xovers, a type AA is in most cases the better xover, both in terms of tweeter protection and better sound. Every push pull amp, and that are most, the AA draws the better music. 2) We have had long discussions here in the forum with listening impressions and measurement protocols that these protective diodes not only protect but can significantly spoil the sound. Since you are one of the most active people on the forum (which is a good thing), it should not have escaped your attention. And everyone in the know says that even at higher volumes, nothing bad has to happen with the tweeter even when not using the diodes. The funny thing is that the protection diodes would have been even more urgent with the type A xover, but they didn't even exist then.