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KT88

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Everything posted by KT88

  1. Your Khorns look really nice. I see the rollers under the speakers. Are they temporary or should they stay there? The bass could be better if the speakers are on the floor without the wheels after final positioning..
  2. Yes, that's exactly what I mean. The metal tongues should be firmly tightened, not with too much force of course, you do it with your hands and without pliers. If the metal tongues are nice and tight, there will be no micro-vibrations and the sound will be stable. You can try it out by ear whether you plug plus and minus into the connections for the tweeter or for the bass. I have found that it sounds "rounder" if you use the bass terminals. But some manufacturers, such as Tannoy, recommend the tweeter terminals. It's up to your ears. The difference is only very subtle.
  3. I understand that there are separate connections for bi amping. Biwiring should be done by whoever wants, I have not recognized any advantage in 40 years, only disadvantages, you get a pseudo sense of space and sacrifice timing. The most absurd thing is that today there are extra short cable bridges from HF to LF that can cost 300 USD instead of the metal tongues from the factory. The best connection if you do without biamping would be one pair of cables to the crossover, or both internal pairs of cables to one contact point each for HF and LF.
  4. A question about the correct connection of the mains cable. On old devices with transformer power supplies, you can measure the voltage at the housing vs. earth. If I turn the mains plug 180 degrees in Europe, I have a worse sound if the AC voltage between the housing and earth is higher and I have a better sound if I measure a lower voltage. This type of measurement does not work for devices with a switching power supply without a real transformer. The Node is such a device. I have found out which way round the mains plug has to be so that it sounds better to me. I would like to know whether my subjective impression corresponds to the correct recommendation. So my question is, on which side of the two-core Euro cable should the "hot" wire be regarding the Node? Looking from the back, left or right? Or is there a general way to find out the correct polarity of the power cable for switching power supplies, other than by ear?
  5. Do you drive the AMT actively to compensate for the lower efficiency?
  6. Does the AMT1 have to be open at the back @babadono? Or could it also be placed between the bass and the K402 so that it is positioned center center, so to speak, and only protrudes slightly? I have seen 100dB efficiency 1w1/m. So that seems to be enough to hear a difference? A really interesting project. It remains the two-way principle but with a little more "air". Do you hear a change in the spatiality? The staggering of the instruments etc.?
  7. From what I see on Decware's website, the main difference is that the SE84UFO25 uses three separate rectifier tubes, one for each tube in the signal path. The "simple" UFO and UFO2.1 do not have this complexity and they use only one rectifier tube. I wonder if that has anything to do with the hum?
  8. I do not know the H4 so I am just curious. Which freq. region do you address concerning box resonances?
  9. I have a question about this. Let's assume we have a baffle of 2 (high) x1 (wide) meter e.g. We install a 15" driver at the center. In a second baffle of the same size we install an 8" driver in the center. Now, regardless of the fact that the larger driver can move more air (and regardless of influence of a given resonance freq. of the drivers) would the OB with the 8" driver go lower in frequency because its diaphragm is further away from the side ends of the baffle? And therefore the acoustic short circuit occurs later (in the sense of a longer wave length)?
  10. I'm pretty sure they sound good with this setup. they have such a wide dispersion factor...a real 2" driver without a narrowing adapter like some 1,4“ drivers need plus Roy's additional phase plug will be ok with this setup.
  11. Truly an aristocratic sound system! And he has enough spiritual drinks in case his ears need a fine-tuning😀
  12. And not only re metal…Mostly to my ears the original mixes sound the best, also with rock, pop and jazz.
  13. I can only tell you from my own experience with my 1977 LaScala that your current autoformers and coils are worth their weight in gold. Everything else (and Crites does not have the original values of the autoformers) is an audible deterioration. That leaves the capacitors. I have had bad experience with Crits Sonicaps. I don't know what he sells today. But just buy new capacitors from JEM. They will give you the original sound of your Heresy. Please take care of all other components forever and don't replace them.
  14. Is the H1 not the only one with the same squaker drivers and tweeters as LaScala and Khorn at that time? Which must not be a bad thing.
  15. I wouldn't describe all tube amps in general as "hummers". I have had an MC275 MK4 for 23 years and it is absolutely quiet even at 108 dB UJ. Even vintage amps like my Leak stereo20 and Quad II are absolutely quiet. Ok, the Leak is a bit noisy because of the very high sensitivity, but no hum. I am absolutely no expert, what I have learned is that the double hum frequency has nothing to do with ground loop. If you hear 120Hz or in Europe 100Hz (and you can clearly hear that if it is double the mains frequency) then that is the sound after the rectifiers have turned the negative half wave to the positive side. This doubles the frequency. This is followed by the PSU filter capacitors in the circuit. If one of these caps is broken, you will hear this doubled mains frequency, same in an SS amp. I cannot contribute to the solution if an amp is new and has been tested before delivery. But it must have something to do with the mains filter or the mains filter caps, or their size? but not with ground problems.
  16. I hope Groomlakearea51 is doing well. His last post was 2016.
  17. One suggestion is to connect both pairs of speakers when it comes to ambient sound to fill the house. If it is a compromise in sound, only connect the one pair that is consciously needed for beautiful listening at any given time. No matter which of the two.
  18. A very silly question, but sometimes it helps. Have you tried different cassettes? I remember in the past that some cassettes simply had too much friction and the take-up spool was not free. Or that the unwinding spool was blocked and the friction wheel together with the drive shaft could not transport. And cassettes become not better when aging.
  19. I have just seen this ebay offer by chance, if you do not already know about it. Having all the parts a local tech should be able to do the job. https://www.ebay.com/itm/314148606692
  20. sorry double post, the Klipsch site was not accessible after I posted.
  21. I don't want to recommend or suggest anything to anyone. What was the starting point for my first post: The thread opener has been using quite expensive cables that he liked. He needs more of them due to changes in the stereo setup. So for this specific case he asked and I thought about it, what is just as good but not as expensive? I thought I could give input because I recently had a very good experience with a much cheaper cable than the price of my old Kimber 8TC cables by chance. So my post was just referring to this specific case where someone wants to save money but still get a comparable solution. Apart from this individual case, everyone can do what they want. There are so many types of hi-fi enthusiasts, so many budgets and so many preferences. Everything has its justification and everyone should have fun with what they consider to be beautiful and important. When the discussion of the answer posts started, I wanted to point out to the supporters of the camp of inexpensive cables that there are cables for marginally more money that could be significantly better. If someone from the exclusive cable camp wants to enjoy their expensive cable, they are welcome to do so. I hope that the forum members have understood me in this way. Everyone has weaknesses for expensive and perhaps not always rationally explainable products. That's all very well. For example, I enjoy a Les Paul Beano Eric Clapton. Rationally speaking, a normal Les Paul would be perfectly adequate for my playing style. Very probably a Korean Les Paul copy would be sufficient for my playing skills. So what's the point. I respect people who are economical just as much as I respect people who enjoy special things, even if they are speaker cables. There is no reason to polarize this discussion from my point of view. I totally agree with you that anyone who likes it should buy natural wool braided cables.
  22. Nevertheless, I have the impression that you don't differentiate in a way that someone could. I think spending hundreds or thousands of dollars on speaker cables is a lot of nonsense. But if I can buy a cable for 6 dollars per meter that can keep up with the most expensive cables, why should I prefer a dollar for a meter of lamp strips? that's a difference of 40 dollars for 2x4 meters, for example. So not more than one fill-up. In my experience, it's really worth it.
  23. Ok, we have a faction here that says that the cheapest cables are good enough. I don't belong to that camp. In my experience, cables can make a difference. However, the Canare 4S11 is not a "compromise". Some people have given up their €2000+ cables for it.
  24. See also the „extended version“ in the other thread. Meanwhile I also think that the 4S11 becomes more and more 3D
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