wireless

I had Denon 4800 and the hissing was one of several reasons I returned it. The volume could be turned all the way down to where there were two -- dashes on the front panel display. However, as soon as one notch on the volume was clicked and the display showed -60, the hiss was there. It didn't go up as the volume was increased but it was quite noticeable. I bought a Marantz to replace the Denon and every once in a while some hiss is detectable and it occurs when the volume is high. I think it's the Denon that's your problem.

I have a Toshiba 1600. Works okay but lotta noise when the disk is spinning. Wouldn't recommend it because of that.

Originally posted by Ray Garrison: wireless, The full discussion of jitter, what is and is not audible, and why, is (1) way to much to go into here, and (2) waaaaaaay beyond me anyway. That was a good article (I think) that you linked to. I still wonder how noticeable it is to the listener. That is, how many people can say they listened to two CD players where there was a measured difference in jitter and could clearly hear the difference. This reminds me of the cable debate. I would spend the $$$ if I were convinced of a difference. I may see if I can A/B my $180 Toshiba 1600 against something else at the local audiophile stereo dealer. BTW this weekend I listend to some paradyme speakers, then to some Theil MCS1s on Aragon equipment and a Pioneer DVD. I could clearly hear the difference. Of course the price diff was very large.

Originally posted by Ray Garrison: On a CD or DVD player, you are reading the data in real time, clocking it out to the digital filter and the D/A converter using a time code embedded in the data stream. The timing of the pluse code representing the 0 and 1 bit transitions must be accurate to within a few hundred **PICOSECONDS** for the timing-induced distortion ("jitter") to be below audible levels. Picoseconds? If you assume a sampling rate of 96 Khz (2*44.1 for stereo?) and 24 bits per sample that wouldn't be anywhere near a picosecond bitstream. How do come up with the picosecond requirement? for a good example of a well engineered product with low jitter specs. Have you heard sonic differences in DVD/CD players with your own ears that you could attribute to jitter? Where are jitter specs for DVD players? It normally isn't given as a specification by the manufacturers. I can imaging very few people spending 6k for a Levinson CD player, can you? Whole thing could have been avoided if the whiz kids at Sony/Phillips had designed the CD system around a data buffer where you read in and clocked out the data... How would this avoided jitter? Wouldn't the clocking still be an issue? -David

I've owned both an SR-8000 and a AVR-4800 and its my opinion the Marantz wins hands down. It is better in sound, build quality, and functionality.

If you're outputting the digital stream straight to your receiver and letting it do the decoding then there shouldn't be any difference. It's still ones and zeros no matter where they're coming from.

I recommend Uncle's but I could see where there might be some hitches in certain situations like that one described above. My Uncle's experience was for the most part positive and I would use them again especially considering the price savings over retail. I must have saved between $1000 and $2000 over what I would have paid retail. I ordered a Denon 4800, 2 Klf020's, a c-7, and a Toshiba DVD from them before Christmas. All arrived double-boxed except for the 20s which were shipped through a freight company. They all arrived about a week before Uncle's said they would. I called Uncle's about the 20s and got a tracking number for the freight company. I called the freight company and they already had the speakers in Atlanta but had the wrong phone number for me. They were quite helpful and sent the speakers quickly to my house that day by courier. So everything ordered arrived okay, no damage, and in working condition. I decided I didn't like the Denon and sent it back even though Uncle's web site said they had a 15% restocking fee. I called them and they said they wouldn't charge the restocking fee and just today I found my credit card had been credited back without them charging the fee. I'm satisfied with their service. A couple of things though. When I called, they did check to see if it was in stock. I think they really did check because it took the guy a while to look but who knows - the stuff showed up. Secondly, there is quite a bit of difference between the sales reps you get on the phone. Some of them are pretty rude while others are great. I found Carlos was pretty good and there's another guy I've seen recommended I think his name is Andrew Kent. Carlos will bargain on the price while others will tell you to get lost. I would buy from them again and I hope they can hurry up and get the new Klipsch sub because I'm having a hard time waiting to get a sub for my system. -David

quote: Originally posted by JohnJoesph108: Does anybody know if theres any Photos/Pics of the Entire line of the New Klipsch speakers available other than the ones from the CES 2001 show? There's a advertisement for the line with photo in the Jan. issue of Sound and Vision magazine on page 105.

quote: Originally posted by boa12: looks like the new rsw subs are using an equal sized passive radiator. why don't more of today's subs use these? i haven't noticed (w/ my limited experience) any other subs using them. any cons to them? I was wondering the same thing. Also, why aren't passive woofers used on regular speakers anymore? They are on my Fortes and they seemed to work pretty good. However, in recent times passive woofers have been done away with on the KLFs in favor of ports. Is it just less expensive to build them with ports? -David

quote: Originally posted by PhilH: We can hardly wait to get the new subs to market so you can see that what we're saying is true When exactly will one be available for purchase? I was about to purchase an LF-10 in a matter of days but would rather get the latest.

quote: Originally posted by kleggatt: I think that they have to be the Rf-5 or the RF-7 due to the fact that they have a real wood veneer whereas the RF-3 only come in a black ash vinyl veneer. They are pretty lookin' speakers and I think that I can find a spot for that sub in my living room The size makes 'em look like they would be 5's. But they are only 2-way is looks like. What's up with that?