tk49
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Posts posted by tk49
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They added more definition to the top and bottom, as well as more air between the images. Well worth the investment.
Yes, you're right SANTA, christmas is just around the corner.
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Paul, you were right about the Jupiter copper's in the VRD's. Like you said, they add more of everything that was already great about the VRD's.
Thank's Craig.
Tom
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Thanks Cameron
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I used joewoodwork to build my vacuum press and bag. Very happy with the total system. I recommend the polyurethane bag, much more durable.
tom
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Im going to order a SoundSmith Counter Intuitive today
Good choice, make setup much easier.
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The full case does look good.
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Willland that yamaha gear reminds me of Marks JM Merlin.
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Nice touch, looking forward to pics of the burl.
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You have a PM
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Good read Thebes
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Some great suggestions here. It all boils down to the condition of you veneer. If it's clean and free of dents and ding then sanding with 220 grit will remove the semi-rough surfaces. If using an random orbital sander still sand with the grain.When you think you done sanding look for the fine "pig tails" the orbital will leave behind, 320 grit should take care of those. Biggest concern in sanding veneers is being careful near the edges, that's were uneven pressure will go through first.
If you have dents and dings try some water on them to raise the grain, circle with pencil so you can find all of them later when sanding.
Watco is a great product and will take a top coat after a few days of dry time. One concern when working with stained wood and light sanding (by hand no orbital) after the first top coat is breaking through the stained surface, watch the corners, and never use anything coarser than 220.
And yes, the bottom is always the preferred place to start.
t
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Very well said Dave, Happy Birthday. In 2 months I'll be riding the same train.
Tom
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Paul, you have a PM
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The contrast between the black and the cherry looks good, with time the cherry will age and develop it's own patina. Nice job, now sit back and enjoy the music.
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That's what makes some of those older cherry furniture pieces so beautiful, years of exposure and many rubbings of furniture oil over the years. I found a quick start for darkening cherry many years ago. It involved filling a bucket/jar half full of fireplace ashes, then filling the jar to the top with water. The ashes settled and the jar sat undisturbed for 3-4 months. At that time you could carefully ladle off the water from the top without disturbing the sediment in the bottom. When you applied the mixture like stain to the cherry it would turn several shades darker. It would of course raise the grain, but after a light sanding it still maintain some of the darker color. I have experimented with a number of "cherry" stains, oil, water and alcohol based and not found one that can produce what mother nature does with time. I'm glad to see results and hear from other woodworkers lots of knowledge to be shared. I haven't tried this in years, guess I should gather some ashes and get the brew going.
Tom
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Nice job Bill, there's always a lot more to the finishing process then one thinks.
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Curly maple
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I will keep Rylee and your family in my prayers
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By the way, did you want those splines to be swiss or cheddar?
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Thanks, more to come.
t
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Certainly worth $50
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After trying stock AL'3's, refreshing the stock AL'3's with sonicaps, then your roadshow AA's, then your Universal's, then the ClarityCap/Mundorf Supremes, which gave me detail and clarity I never had before and a sound stage that was big, with each instrument was well placed and a clean edge to it, I thought I had it all. Then I heard the AA's with the Jensen Oilers, they did all the ClarityCap/Mundorf Supremes did and gave an additional coherent sound that was the match I was looking for in my system. The LaScala's have never sounded more natural, I have to say it's been quite a journey. Are the SuperX loaded with the big ClarityCap ESA and the Mundorf Supremes anything like the ones you built for me? I should mention the other modifications I've made is Dave's Fastrac horn and reinforcing the bass bins.
I agree with your comment on sonic memory, I've done the whole power down, switch tubes, interconnects, whatever, then fire back up trying to compare, sometimes you hear it sometimes you don't. But long term listening and memory of that does work, at least for me.
t
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Poplar, being a soft even grained wood, if sanded smooth like to 230 grit, will take a water or oil base stain well. I see your stands have both light and dark grain, the stain will mute that some but you will still see the difference. I haven't worked with the stain and poly all in one so I can't speak for it. If possible, I would test sample on the back.
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I have the Sonos Connect feeding my living room system. Turn it on in the morning and listen all day. Never touch a cd and find Pandora a great way to hear new music. I have found it to be a good way to manage my music collection and non serious listening. Would like to get another Connect feed the deck system.
VRD Mono Blocks
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted · Edited by tk49
My screw up on first reply.
You're a good man Paul , sure you don't need more case work?
Thanks for the kind words in the earlier post