tk49
-
Posts
268 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by tk49
-
-
I agree with the bracing method, did it on my LS's and heard the difference. If your set on wrapping, use the plywood, the solid stock will be a nightmare keeping it flat and you're right the solid stock will move at a greater rate than the ply. I still have my patterns for the bracing and would be happy to make paper copies and mail them to you.
Tom
Can you post a PDF of them?
The pattern is too big for me to scan and I never made a technical drawing, I'm rather IT challenged. But I'll look into it next week when I get back from my spring fishing trip.
t
-
PM me with address's and I will send paper patterns.
-
I agree with the bracing method, did it on my LS's and heard the difference. If your set on wrapping, use the plywood, the solid stock will be a nightmare keeping it flat and you're right the solid stock will move at a greater rate than the ply. I still have my patterns for the bracing and would be happy to make paper copies and mail them to you.
Tom
-
6
-
-
Sounds like either you're leaving the finish on too long, which will allow it to tack up, before wiping clean, or you cabinet surface is too rough and snagging the fine fibers
-
Good article Moray, I agree with staying away from the oil/varnish finishes with steel wool, though the 0000 works well in between coats if you're using shellac. I like to use the Watco an 1200 wet/dry and creat a slurry as the final application before going to the Watco satin wax, but only if you want a glassy finish. Another great product is Sam Maloofs Oil and wax finish, I believe it a combination of tung oil, boiled linseed oil and shredded bees wax, but don't quote me, it leave a great natural finish. Down side is dry time, but it worth the wait. All of the finish talk is moot if you don't use proper sanding techniques before appling finish though.
t
-
What stain did you choose looks a little different than my walnut.
Most stains will blend the differences in the grain color, the darker you go the less the difference, like music it all boils down to personal choice.
t
-
I have to agree with Dean, boiled linseed oil will smell for some time but will leave a well sealed finish. I have found if you don't follow with a wax type finish it will eventually have a muted/dull look. Watco is a great product but will also get a flat look after a period, I like to follow it with Watco Natural Satin Wax. It seals and leave a nice luster that won't go flat, retreating every six months with the wax keeps the surface sealed and clean. You can also use Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac over the Watco instead of the Satin wax, steel wool it with 0000 and have a more protection than the wax and eliminate the 6 mo. treatment. Best is to try any of your finishes on left over stock to see if you like it.
t
-
Schu, pm sent.
-
I was with muel till you got to the part where they are going to college. Skip the stain, protect them with the poly, then if they ever come home you can repair the damage and re-skin them with muels buuuuubinga.
Actually the gym seal will do a better job, used it on my bench tops in jr hi shop , wears like iron.
t
-
Can't believe this hasn't been snagged. A NOSValve rebuild and a mahogany case, sweet deal.
-
Another non-contributing member present.
-
I've done some "drop over the top" for Scott 299's and Fisher. PM me and we can discuss. I see you're in Omaha, I'm in Lincoln.Tom, do you make cases for other audio gear, such as McIntosh, or H.H.Scott. Or and leave it alone.
-
Those Belle's are beautiful. The venting was done with highly discipline termites. Cameron, very generous, thanks.
t
-
Thanks. The JM Blueberry is a great piece, only sold it because I had JM Merlin (hot-rodded by Craig) and no need for the phono section at the time.Great work Tom! Still enjoying the JM Blueberry I got from you
-
1
-
-
Thanks for the compliments, I really enjoy what I do.
Tom
-
2
-
-
Mike, thanks for the good word.
Tom
-
Just sent info
tk
-
Message sent
Tk
-
Have fun.
-
Here is the very first matching, built at the same time set of VRD's and NBS preamplifier burning in..... this is my living room system which I use Tannoy System 15 DMT studio monitors that use the gold drivers... not Klipsch but what they do they do very well!
Craig, nice job on the pic, they look good. Put my name on the list as well.
Tom
-
I was the first to try the Road Show AA’s and was very impressed with the improvement over my AL 3’s, the open natural sound was well beyond anything I had. I wanted a pair. After much discussion with Dean I ended up with the Super AA’s with the Mundorfs over the “entry level” Road Shows. What I got was more clarity and detail from top to bottom, tighter bass, with crisper highs, the sound stage is bigger and with more “in the room” presence, the LaScala’s have never sounded better. These crossovers have revealed a whole other level of what Craig’s VRD’s and the LaScalas can produce. Dean and Craig are masters at what they do, well worth the price of admission.
Tom
-
I think you will find that there is a completely different world out there relative to stock. Dean is a genious when it comes to crossovers. I'm currently enjoying my hot-rodded Super AA's, clear, clean, detailed sound with a full sound stage. Just makes you smile.
Tom
-
I have owned Heresy's, Forte's, Cornwall's and Khorn's, the LaScala is my favorite. Looking forward to hearing you take on Dean's Road Show Super AA's. Enjoy the music. Did you get on the list?
-
Dave, glad to hear they have had a positive affect on your system. Enjoy them for a while, I'm in no hurry to get them back.
Tom
What to attach to LaScala sides?
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Good point Bruce, I found I had to custom fit each brace. Placing the pattern on card stock or card board and then cut a bit oversize helps find the proper fit for each opening. Keep in mind the sides of the dog house and the sides of the bass bin may not be parallel.
Tom