longdrive03

Thanks guys. I am porting these but had not cut the port hole til last night. I will also do some front rear braces now that I know exactly where th holes are located. I added a riser last night as well. Tonight I hope to get the caps built for top and get ready for final sanding and wipe on poly satin. I'll line cabinets with some foam to reduce reflection. Can't wait to hear them hooked up. Here's another pic with base attached and port hole cut.

Photos with speakers set in place.

I've had some various parts laying around a while so I decided to build a larger Heresy. I have two KP-22-E woofers, two H812 (12.5" x 8" exponential horn from PE), and two K-79 (or K-762) tweeters and two NOS Tangent xovers. Used 1.25" birch plywood on sides and tops and 3/4"mdf plus 3/8" baltic birch ply for the front with 3/4"mdf on back. Using cherry veneer on all but back and bottom with solid 1" cherry on front and bottom trim corners. Will use 2 3" diameter ports. The KP-22-E woofers spec out at 96db 1w/1m on WT2. Here's some pics of current status. I'll build a top cap out of some wood (haven't decided yet) and probably a short base. 42.5"tall x 16 x 16. Heavy!!!

Thanks guys. On to the next project. A taller ported Heresy clone. Lucked into 11 sheets of 1 1/4" birch plywood (yes it is heavy!) at an estate sale. Got the four sided shells built today (42" tall x 11.5" deep x 15.5" wide). Using a 7 x 12" Parts Express exponential horn. More later.

Thanks Heli. Yes. I used a roundover bit with slight indenton the face and corners. I had to veneer the two sides and bottom and top first, flush trim those, then glue and clamp in the solid corners, then flush trim then roundover. Lot of work to get there but it worked. I've done this before on Large Advents and some Pioneer HPM40 redos. I was able to use a lof of finish nails on this since I was veneering over the cabinet. Solid as a rock now with the solid bubinga and walnut internal cross brace.

A friend of mine bought these on CL for $150.00. Oiled walnut cabinet with quit a few chips and veneer missing and they were not solid. The backs pushed out easily and I could see light between the corner 45 degree cuts. I reglued, clamped, and finish nailed the cabinets together including the backs and installed a cross brace for stability. I then cut our 1/2" x 1/2" indents on the four top and bottom corners on both speakers. Installed cherry aircraft grade wood back (flame retardant) veneer in wrap around position. Then I installed solid cherry corner pieces in the indents and also on the front trim. Stained to match and four coats of wipe on poly later they are done. He had Bob Crites update the caps on the xover and will install new diaphrams in the tweeters. Pretty much has a new speaker now. I'm also going to veneer the pine risers he got from Bob.

Update on sub. We hooked it up in my empty living room 13 x 13ft 12 ft ceiling last night. Couldn't get loud output and couldn't figure out what was wrong. My friend was using his laptop going through a Creative Labs DAC into the amp and we just weren't get much output. SPL meter showing around 70 db at full gain (32) on Behringer EP2000. Thought is was impedance match between dac and amp. Tonight ran my cd player with my cd test disc rather than the signal generator from the laptop. Ran it into a Carver HT preamp and ran out the sub output by rca cable into an rca to 1/4" phono plug connector into EP2000. Wowsers!!!!!!!!!! Hold on to your seat. At 20 hz (lowest test tone on cd) and a 14 gain (9 oclock) on amp this baby put out the bass. at 18 (10:30) it was rocking. Can't test the below 20 signal but per modeling at 100 w input 13 hz should be 99db (as well as 20 Hz output). My friend was a little disappointed last night and I was too. My wife kept saying she had to leave the house so her heart wouldn't stop!!! Will do some spl levels this weekend. So far I really like this combo. The video of the 20hz movement is really neat.

I hope you weren't hanging out of the sub when it hit 150db!!!!

He is researching the brains comprehension of subsonic frequencies. I now know that the fluid in my eye vibrates at 19HZ! He has a book out "The Resonance Key". Seems like a normal guy. Here are some photos of the interior shell and cutouts.

Hi Andy, Welcome to the forum. I've "repurposed" several old Zenith, Philco, RCA and other brand cabinets into downfiring subs mainly because the cabinets are made well. This also allows me to measure and build the proper size cabinet for the woofers since most are in cabinets that are too small You may run into a problem with the small vents in your cabinet. The 450 is a downward firing sub and you won't get a lot of air movement using this method. Usually I use at least 2.5-3" gap from woofer to floor for downfiring sub. Perhaps a contoured curved gap would be better (on the front and sides) to allow more air movement. Good luck

Built this for a friend who is doing research on the effectsof subsonic bass on the human body. He needed something that would do 13HZ. It' s not small (25.5" cube with 1.5" riser and removable roller dolly). 1.5" thick walls all around (3/4" mdf inner and 3/4" baltic birch outer). Glued, clamped and screwed. Uses one CSS 12" sub and two CSS 12" PR's. Pushing it with a Behringer EP2000 amp. My friend has a signal generator program on his laptop that allows him to switch between various frequencies (17hz to 19Hz). I could hear 19hz but not 3Hz (cone was moving). The pr's have 900 grams of washers attached to a built in bolt with wing nut. Woofer has 350w handling with max of 500. Computer shows it will do 99 db at 13Hz with 100watt input with woofer moving 6mm and both pr's moving 19mm (out of 38mm xmax). First time I'm built with these and they are impressive. Need to get them inside (when my wife isn't home) to see how they do. 40HZ was loud and clear off my cheapo Sony garage receiver (65 wpc). He wanted them finished in truck bed liner to protect the cabinets. I added plastic corner protectors and elevated removable metal grills to prevent damage during transport to his seminars.

Hi Mezball. I may have what you need. I think I have several of these drivers. Are the drivers attached with three screws (not bolts) which screw into the K-99 Horn. I have several of these but will need to check the numbers and ohmage. I'll make you a deal at $10.00, shipping included if I can match the numbers and you're interested. Thanks.

Was the dust cap dented in? Was it torn? After checking the above I would put some rope cault around the connection between the cone and dust cap and then listen for rattle. If that elminates rattle then you have a loose dustcap and you need to reseal it. Can use Aileene's tacky glue or elmers. You could also remove dust cap and replace with same size (make sure you can get same size before cutting our with exacto knife. If you need a 4.5" dc with Klipsch logo let me know. Thanks.

I'm thinking about using the K99 horn in some curved line array speakers as a center tweeter. Need a 1500HZ cutoff if possible. I know most of the Klipsch xovers cross about 2500HZ. Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks for your help.

Saw one of these at estate sale today - can't find much info but did find building plans. Anyone have any knowledge that can point me where to look? Mahogany cabinet - excellent shape. Price is $2,950.00. Can't move it out to see back. Told it has the N-1000B crossover. Appears to be 15" at top of cabinet and 13"wide horn opening (?) at bottom? Any ideas on what it's worth? Thanks

I bought one of these stage monitorsat an estate sale. Couldn't test it at the sale but got it home and found out the 15" woofer vc is frozen. The HF driver is strange because there is no back plate to cover the 2" diaphragm which fires into th 3/4" horn opening. There are three screws on the raised rim around the diaphragm. It works in this condition Question: Is this by design or did someone not replace the back plate on the driver??? I'll post some pics. If it does need a back plate can I just make one and attach to the back with a little foam rubber inside? I may have to replace with a Klipsch driver I have laying around. Thanks

I've got the 7 x 10 Klipsch horn used in the KLF series which have a small bolt on flange. Also have some some NOS K67A drivers (BMD 440) bolt on drivers that you could rig together.

I think you should be able to just replace the tweeter driver and not the horn. Not sure which part number it uses. Good luck.

Thanks JT. I checked that and found a few similar SC amps that were in the $160.00 range as I recall. I saw the same tuner sold for $145.00. I've got it listed on ebay as well. The tuner has a unique tuning meter - two "lights" converge from the top and bottom and meet in the middle to show the best tuning position. Pretty neat. Those tubes produce some heat!!

Thanks for the compliment TF. No problems with the cabinet pull handles or shell vibrating. I usually lined the cabinet with 3/8 to 3/4" mdf and then install some tool drawer foam liner on the bottom to help deaden the vibration. I usually don't physically connect or anchor the sub box to the cabinet shell. I've got several of these vintage subs completed in the ole garage and my wife would like me to move (sell) them. Cherry, lacewood, ribbon mahogany veneers look great. The old cabinet makers used great lumber core veneers that still look great. The one I posted has a to lid that opens, the top fornt opens and the two lower doors open to show the sub.

Thanks TF. I don't have any experience on this type redo. I just listed it on ebay so I'm going to sell it and the tuner and not mess with it. I have some other amps from RCA, Magnavox, and Zenith that I removed from other vintage cabinets that I'll probably list as well. I am more interested in the cabinets usually. I gut them and install a powered sub in the cabinet shells. Here's a pic of a couple I've done recently.

Thanks for the responses guys. I'm considering putting the console back together after I complete the cabinet refinish and putting it in my office. I have some horn mids and tweets with 2 10" woofers in the office so 16 watts should be enough. Powering them with a Sansui AU-101 integrated amp now and it's more than enough at 12 wpc. I've tried to post some photos but not sure they will show up. The amp has a bottom cover on it so I haven't explored inside yet. Have seen some on ebay for around $150 or more. I do have the SR-445 tuner with the amp which has great reception. BTW what the best source for the parts listed above to replace? Thanks

Hi guys, I just bought an SC SP-902M console radio at an estate sale. It has the ASR-333 amp (which works fine) along with a very good tuner and a turntable. I planned on gutting it and using the mahogany cabinet as a "pretty" subwoofer shell. It has 2 LK-480 speakers (8" woofer and 3" cone tweeter) in a cork cabinet. Looks like old particle board but it is light weight and appears to be cork!!! I'll post photos later. Anyone have any experience with this amp? I think it is around 16 watts. Has an A and B channel and has RCA tape deck inputs which accept a cd player and sound good. The highs need to be a little brighter (may new caps ???). Anyone have an idea what the amp is worth? Thanks.

Just finished this project in a refinished "Magnificient Magnavox" cabinet using the K-1071-A 12" klipsch sub and a used Klipsch amp. Reveneered the cabinet with cherry on sides and redid the mahogany top and cross braces. Sub fire forward behind the original grill cloth. Sounds great. Tuned to 32Hz. Hopefully will have a high SAF (spousal acceptance factor) to someone since the wife won't let it in the house.