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HarryO

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Posts posted by HarryO

  1. I would work from home for the next week and leave the door UN-locked while waiting with a shot gun.

    If he falls back out the door, drag him back in...

    ANYONE that will break into your home is is a threat not to be taken lightly.

    Locked doors will NOT stop a criminal. They may give you time to prepare yourself though.

    Just remember Indiana is one of the states that has a law that protects the criminals too. Make sure you were "defending your life" and no other option exists except to defend yourself. In this state you might want to "plant a weapon" next to the body. You have to protect yourself from the law here also.

    Anyone that comes inside my dwelling without my permission has a serious problem. Period!

    Heck, I'm such a badazz I don't need a gun. I'll insert the bullets manually. First there will be the mandatory session given to the perpetrator on the dangers of breaking into the wrong home. Forget the dogs, beware of owner! Judge, jury, executioner. My gas bill is too high anyway.

    Harry

  2. I'm seeing this as a NO BRAINER here. Why doesn't Klipsch do an upgrade on an obvious week spot on a great sounding system. It's an area that needs a fix from the manufacturer.

    I do NOT move my speakers around and I've had 2 bad ones. They weren't shoved against the wall, removed and installed numerous times, they just either broke or quit working. I fixed them a couple of times but this connection needs a "Klipsch Fix". It's giving Klipsch a bad reputation in quality control.

    Harry

  3. There's the good and there's the questionable. The kits seem to be easier to tell exactly what you're buying.

    Some of the things I found out is that those nice transformer cans are not potted transformers....there're covers for small transformers.

    Also seen some large value caps which contained smaller incorrect vlaue caps inside them.

    If your going to spend 600 bucks, I'd throw that money towards some used american gear.

    Of course you can't stereotype all Chinese or any product as good or bad based only where it was made but...

    I work on a lot of audio gear. I do find a lot of questionable parts quality issues and build quality control issues as well with the "CHI-FI" stuff. Quite honestly most is decent quality. A high % is junk though.

    Heck, about all of the crap we buy these days is Chinese. It's mostly due to availability and cost.

    I've personally had a half dozen Chinese amps and most sounded good. I presently own a Welltronics AMC CVT-2030 Hybrid EL34 amp and a ShengYa/Vincent tube HDCD player and they both sound excellent and all I could ask for soundwise if that was my only goal for SQ.

    A lot of the CHI-FI sounds good but honestly I try to avoid it like "the Clap"

    Buy American iron when possible and you'll most likely end up with good sounding gear that will last you a lifetime.

    There is a good reason the vintage U.S.A. iron is being resurected and restored. It's great stuff.

    Just ask the Chinese. Heck, they're copying it and putting fancy names and trinkets all over it.

    Harry

  4. Cornwalls are a good choice IF you can find a pair for the money you want to spend. They're bringing the bucks they should be right now. They do go down in price occasionally but are worth $500-$1,000 depending on condition and upgrades. Even more on super nice ones. Location, Location, Location.

    On your tube amps. STAY AWAY FROM "CHI-FI" STUFF. It's cheap chinese stuff but leaves a lot to be desired. It's ok for entry level as a general rule but usually crapola. The vintage tube gear keeps it's value for a reason. It's well built and sounds fantastic with good hot glass glowing. Larger tube amps will keep your listening area "warm and cozy" so if you've got kids or curious pets you may want to keep them out of reach.

    You should be able to find a good vintage tube integrated in the $500 and up range depending how much you want to spend and how much power you want.

    Cornwalls are easily driven with SET at around 4 watts up but a 12 wpc will sound good. More power isn't necessary but it's always nice to have a bunch in reserve when the mood strikes.

    Tubes can be frustrating at first but it's like the rest of audio. It's a learning thing and once mastered is a heckova satisfying hobby with very pleasing results.

    That spare Eico might be something you should check into more thoroughly. They made a very good sounding amp. If I needed another amp I'd ask a few questions about it.

    Harry

  5. A man comes home from work, sits in his lazyboy in front of the TV and rudely tells his wife, 'Gimme a beer before it starts.'

    She gives him his beer.

    About 15 minutes later, he says again, 'Gimme a beer before it starts.'

    She does.

    A few minutes later, he asks again for a beer.

    The wife says, 'Don't you think you're drinking too much beer? It hasn't been half an hour that you got here and you've already had two beers. I'm getting fed up with this.'

    The husband looks up and mumbles, 'Now it starts.'

    • Like 1
  6. LaScala, Birch, Lacquer, Stained w/s= walnut stain

    The other hint that these were stained at the factory is that the decals were obviously placed AFTER the staining process. Only the prettiest birch veneers were stained. They would NOT have been stained by the dealer as the factory tags were applied in Hope after the units were tested.

    Units with a Top Grill would have a TG designation on them sometimes followed by 17 for black 3 for cane

    That's a very pretty pair, congratulations.

    Normally a unit with K55M mid driver should be AL2 or preferrably AL3 networks. NOT AA as noted above. That is incorrect per Klipsch.

    now get that lamp off of there

    My estimate of value $1200 - $1500, nothing less. Those have obviously been well cared for.

    Michael

    Michael is right on on all counts.

    The price of a very nice pair of Heritage is stable. $1,200-$1500 is fair for these nice speakers. I just sold my '78s for $1,200 this year and weren't as nice as yours. They had been "freshened up" with new caps though.

    The WAF is always critical on the big LS and bringing in an average pair of "Ol' Uglys" can take a bunch of 'splainin and a heck of a sales pitch to keep harmony at home.

    There's plenty of average LS around for $500- $1,000.

    Nice speakers always demand more money as well they should. I'd personally pay more for nice speakers unless I didn't have the bucks and had to settle for less. Then I have to work my butt off to make them look like something.

    You've taken good care of your LS and will be rewarded in $ for your time and efforts.

    Harry

  7. Rick,

    I haven't done any scientific testing but I've had to replace 5 this year that were working. You can usually hear them breaking down on certain higher notes. I've got used to listening for it now. To verify my ears I've been unhooking the tweeter and woofer and playing at reasonable volumes.

    I just bought the '78 CWs from Stormin and the first song we listened to it was obvious without unplugging. Randy didn't notice it until I pointed it out and upon further listening he did. After you've heard one or two of them it's pretty obvious. They're just not as crisp, clear, and they crackle a bit at some levels. It's usually hidden pretty good and most recordings won't bring it out.

    After you change them out it's VERY obvious. I've tried wiping the old diaphrams down with a silicone base oil and it seems to help for a little while but not long.

    I"m interested in documented test results also.

    Harry

  8. 1: Change the caps. I prefer the Sonicap from BEC. They're my #1 choice on the AA. If I'm keeping the costs WAY down I'll use the Jantzen from Parts Express. They don't sound as good as the Sonicaps but there's times when cheap is the only way I can go.

    2: Some tubes don't match up well with some applications. The K-77/K-55/K-400 will tell you quick if they don't like your tube choices.

    3: The diaphrams may well be showing their age. I've been changing out more diaphrams in the last year than ever before. There is a marked improvement in sound when changed in most cases. Some of the aged diaphrams do get nasty and crackly on top under a bit of volume.

    4: And not particularly in any order. Check and clean all wiring connections and tighten up the screws holding the horn lenses to the motorboard.

    5: Take a magnet and see if the screw holding the coil inductor is magnetic. If so, replace it with brass or stainless. They can also be glued to hold without screw.

    6: Refer to #1. Bob (BEC) is right on. 30 year old caps are shot. If you look close I'll bet they're already leaking on the board. Bad caps = Bad sound. The last pair of AAs I did were 78 models out of Belles. When I changed caps the old oil caps weighed nothing. They were ALL totally dry but still played out. I've never seen all of them totally dry before.

    Harry

  9. I wouldn't buy used tires except as a last resort. The new car takeoffs probably didn't have 500-1,000 miles on them. They still were shiny new with all the little "tabs" on them.

    You might call around and ask if any are available. New car dealerships occasionally have them also. Call the parts department and ask.

    Since you're getting rid of the car pretty quick it may be an option that suits your needs economically.

    Harry

  10. Another thought is a set of new "take offs".

    My Saab needed new tires bad and when I went to my longtime local dealer I was given the option of new car takeoffs.

    I bought a new $1600 set of Pirelli tires taken off a new car the owner had replaced with custom wheels and tires. I paid $250 mounted and balanced.

    New care takeoffs are avalable at many tire dealers.

    I normally choose Uniroyals. I get good mileage from them, very few problems over the years, and the price I just checked a few months ago was around $75.00 ea.

    I won't go to a discount house for tires. I don't go to a tire store for diapers or greenbeans.

    Harry

  11. It would be simpler to cut a square piece of mdf to cover the hole where passive normally goes, put the ports in and attach to the back. If you paint that flat black it will just about look like it belongs there.

    Anyone have a good pic of the back of a Chorus II?

    Bruce

    Bruce,

    Here's a good pic of the back of the ones I have in the Garage Sale.

    http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/109162.aspx

    Harry

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