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Havn't hooked up the DLS 5000R yet. Waiting for my RF 7 crossovers to come back from Dean. I'll post when I tie it together.

Pre amp main out to sub in. Sub out to power amp in. Power amp to main speakers.

It's possible and I've done it thanks to the help from several people here on the forum and veladyne who all described it the same way.

I have an excellent Audio Research CD 1 player about 25 years old. It sounds great. I have ,as far as I know, zero SACD's in my collection.If I got a high quality SACD player and played regular CD's on it, how would it compare in sound quality to my ARC CD player playing the same CD's?

I have a 2 channel system. I just bought monoprice audio subwooker coax cables S/PDIF. Did I get the wrong type. In my system a SS 25 year old ARC CD player feeds an ARC SP 11, 25 year old tube pre amp to a Rotel 990 power amp to RF 7's and a Velodyne DLS 5000R sub. I'm bi-amping the sub [ pre amp to sub sub to power amp to RF 7's] Where is the interconnect signal analog and where is it digital? Where, between what components, would the S/PDIF type cable be not the best choice if anywhere?

FWIW A person can cancel a cashiers check. One should wait for the bank you deposit it in to say its cleared. Takes about 10 days for this as I recall. Not sure about a money order though. That may be the same as cash. Anyone know.?

I have RF 7's for 2 channel and an audio research SP 11 tube pre amp [original cost $5000] I have both the above SS power amps. The Rotel is 200w and the Nad 150w/channel They both sound REALLY great. I can't tell the difference between the two. The NAD is new. Played about a month. The Rotel is like new in that it has been Factory Refurbished about 2 weeks ago. I'm looking to sell one of them. They both seem to be selling on e-bay at about $500. Nad list is $799 and Rotel 990 $1000 but the Rotel is over 15 years old. If you can find a good price on a Rotel 1080, which replaced the 990, it should be considered. List 1080 $1000. Also 200w.

I'll give you a good price on some new Sylvania 6DJ8's new and I have 10 from the same lot number. You could call the CD manufacturer and get their recommendation on best tubes for that unit. Who would know better?

An interested buyer asked if they were the winning bid, would I consider a Cash Exchange. Does anyone know what this means? So far I have one bid at $1600 not from "that person".

Thanks guys. So with this nominal 6 ohm home theater receiver, that has 6 wire clamp-ons on the back of the receiver, I can connect five 8 ohm speakers and a 4 ohm powered sub.. The receiver also says 600 watts 100 watts per speaker. Now various speakers say things like nominal [there is our word] 40 watts to max 90 watts. What do I have to look for or watch out for regard to wattage matching?

Why was 6 ohm introduced? If you have 6 ohm connectios on your receiver does that mean you must connect 6 ohm speakers?

Haven't connected it in yet. Dean has my RF-7 crossovers. Valedyne says the dls 5000R is a better fit with my RF 7's though and the size of my space at 4000'cu plus. I will post once I get it set up. The DLS only goes down to 23Hz where the DD 12 goes down to 17Hz

Like NEW, Mint 2006 Velodyne DD 12 sub for sale.

Sorry, but I'm a fan of yours! This isn't what your asking, but with a little change in mindset I think might work for you. I bought 2 small black wire fans at Walmart for about $4.95 each. They are certainly audible with no music playing when you are up close to them. I, however, can't hear them when playing at normal listening volume at my listening perch. It might be somthing to try while looking for a fan and who knows along the way you may decide the problem solved. BTW, I had two ARC 300 monoblocks a few years ago. They each had 2 fans that I could easily hear until I played my music. If these audible fans worked for Audio Research at $ 5000 each per monoblock,, they may work for you. You may check with ARC to see if their fans work for you.

I was advised by Curt at Velodyne to get a DD-18 or a base reflex DLS 5000R for my 4000' plus family/dining space.I even think the kitchen which is partly open to the space plays a role. Thats why I say 4000' plus Well the DD-18 at $5000 is out of my price range and at 120 lbs is too heavy for my 74 year young body. I just received the DLS 5000R but have not installed it yet. My Rf-7's are at Deans for new crossovers.I have learned a lot from the DD 12's on screen software about placement,frequency response, phase,polarity, crossovers high and low, slopes, and room equalization. Still don't understand Q value and contour and contour slope though. Didn't get that far in the software in tweeking the sub and room. If the DLS isn't enough I may get a second one at $799 and still be ahead of the $ 1870 I paid 2 weeks ago for the DD-12. Thanks Loud, for all your help and support.

This was manufactured in 2006. Has all the accessories. Performs flawlessly. Original factory double boxes with styrofoam inserts. Recent 2.0 version software installed. Black mirror like finish. I live in western Pa just north of Pittsburgh. MSRP $2900. I'll take the best offer over $ 1700. http://www.velodyne.com/velodyne/products/product.aspx?ID=4&sid=749s296q Check out this state of art sub.

Are bass traps [generic name I suppose] and tube traps[brand name] the same sort of thing? When I had big houses with big listening rooms and klipsch horns I used 8 cylindical tube traps of different heights and diameters. They helped. Is anyone interested in buying one or more of these?

I looked at my records and these tubes were tested by the seller on a hickok 118b military tube tester for shorts, leakage m/u and gas. Mind you I don't have the tester and if I did would need help to use it.

Here is a link to the item. We don't have the speakers. http://us.lge.com/products/model/detail/tv%7Caudio%7Cvideo___LGDVT418.jhtml The manual is there to click on as well.

Thanks guys. Cal are you tubes new and tested good? Are any the same lot number?

A relative has the receiver for a LG electroniic HT system which he picked up but without the speakers that go with it. The 6 clamps on the back are those that a single wire fits into and you snap it tight. Its 600 watts LG DVT 418. What speaker system [modified if necessary] would work with this? This is a low budget search.

Talked to ARC factory technician. He said to swap out the interconnect again with a different cable. Check the input solder connections as mentioned above, take the tubes out and put them back in, and [now here is the good part] Rotate all the knobs from one extreme to the other 50 to 100 times and likewise flip all the toggles 100 times. My Sp 11 is 25 years old and all my listening has been with a Cd player for the past 10 years. The unexercised knobs and toggles [which are self cleaning when moved] will clean themselves. I can't see if the pre amp works now because I sent my RF-7 crossovers to Dean. I should have them back in a few days. Stay tuned.

It's not easy to find this many 6DJ8's all the same lot number. I bought them a few weeks ago from a reputable tube dealer.They are represented to me as all tested good and are new. The relative triode numbers marked on the boxes are one at 80 one at 95/100 and 8 at 85 to 90. I don't know squat about tubes, but I'm told that tubes with these relative triod readings within a range of 10 are matched. 8 of the 10 are within 5. These tubes sell in the $ 20 to $40 range in quantities of 1 or 2. Anyone interested before I put them on e-bay. Make an offer.

Just checked the price of four 6' digital audio coax cables with S&H. Blue jean= $70...Monoprice= $ 15.41 This is quite a price difference. If the cables are of equal quality, this is a no brainer. Are they equal quality???

Thanks all. I never had a powered subwoofer in my 2 channel system. All my components were close to each other and I have high end components with high end interconnects. Enter a subwoofer with an interconnect for LOW frequency ONLY from my pre amp main out. No problem. I got blue jeans for this [had not heard of monoprice at the time] even though the sub could be 20 feet away ie the low frequency logic. But I also may bi-amp in my sub hook-up. Now ALL the frequencies are going to my sub and from my sub everything above 80Hz back to my power amp. Do I now need higher quality interconnects for this? I now know the best placement for my sub location is between my main [ONLY] speakers and I need 2 more 2 meter interconnects. My 26 foot blue jeans are too long for this.The rest of my interconnects are anti-cables. Two more anti-cable pairs would be $ 150 each ie $300. Or do I get 2 meter blue jeans or monoprice.