shepjk01

Yes same cabinets different woofers. Added the hardwood trim to the bottom. They have been collecting dust for a while. If there is no interest in the cabinets this time around I'm going to be repurposing them.

Well I have been gone around 8 months and just got back into town a few weeks ago and have decided to part with a few items 2. MiniDsp 2x8 active crossover. The minidsp board is installed in a 1ru rack case along with rca input jacks and balanced output jacks. Completely plug and play. The board costs 299 and the shipping fees were around $40. The 1ru rack case was $80 and another $50 for all the hardware. I'm asking $340 plus shipping in the CONUS only. If you are looking to go active with your system this is an economical way to go. The sound quality is also excellent for an active crossover. http://www.minidsp.com/products/minidspkits/2-x-in-8-x-out Also I would be willing to trade the minidsp for a pair of alk universal crossovers. I could use them in some lascalas. 3. 3 Qsc Rmx 850 amplifiers. The amps are in good cosmetic condition and excellent operating condition, they have silent fans installed. I was using them to power my surrounds. Asking 140 per amplifier plus shipping in the CONUS only.http://qsc.com/products/Power_Amplifiers/RMX_Series/RMX_850/ 5. Pair of SEOS-12 waveguide with Denovo Audio dna-360 drivers from diy soundgroup. The drivers are 1 inch and are copies of the b&c de250. They actually measure a little better. The drivers and horns are new. They cost $216 plus the shipping. Asking $150 plus shipping for both in the CONUS only. If you want just the drivers $130 plus shipping. If you want just the horns $35 plus shipping. http://www.diysoundgroup.com/plastic-seos-12/plastic-seos-matte.html http://www.diysoundgroup.com/compression-drivers/dna-360.html

I am confused still... So you are crossing over at 500hz but your bass bin has the Hi Pass bypassed? Shouldn't there be something that shows how low the bass bin goes? You don't have to use a high pass in the minidsp. It just protects the driver. Also most avrs come with a built in high pass for each speaker.

The horn should also be set to 400hz. This allows it to sum flat at the crossover.

Yes for output 1. know set output 2 up as your top end with a 400hz highpass and bypass the lowpass

input 1 goes to output 1&2 so you need to use output 1 for the quarter pie output 2 for the midrange. input 2 goes to outputs 3&4 so output 3 for the other quarter pie and output 4 for the other midrange. Also you have to unclick the bypass button on the quarter pie high pass filter. Notice on your frequency response graph the output of the quarter pie is not dropping at 50hz.

No not on the minidsp each channel controls a different driver so say output 1 goes to the woofer it would have a high pass and a low pass. The high pass would be the cutoff of the quarter pie and the low pass the 400hz. Say output 2 goes to your midrange/upper end driver it only needs to use the high pass at 400hz then bypass the low pass filter as its not needed this creates your 400hz crossover. Also on output 1 uncheck the highpass as you want it set at 50hz or the cutoff of the quarter pie.

The AA uses a very shallow slopes I think 6 db on the woofer and 12 on the mid could be wrong on the mid. I would take a frequency response measure as stated with the AA in and use it as a baseline. Note the position of the volume on your denon and also of the mic. Now when you go active place the mic in the same position and the denon on the same volume. Adjusts the gains on your amps to match up to the other graph db wise. This will get you a baseline.

The mic will do what is needed. It will not be as perfect as using the loopback, but it will get you close enough. You can use calculations to get a baseline start then look at the frequency response at the crossover point. When drivers are time aligned and level matched using a LR 24db slope it will be flat at the crossover. The first thing is to make sure the drivers are level matched then you can mess with the delay and dial the delay in until you get it as flat as possible at the crossover point. Also speaker time alignment is only perfect at the place you align them at. You can also run a measurement sweep in rew and look at the impulse response. If one driver is delayed it will show up in the time between impulse response peaks.

You don't need a sound card with the minidsp UMIK-1 as it is a usb mic. Here is the download link for the intel nic to install the latest graphics drivers which provide the audio you need for the umik to work in REW. https://downloadcenter.intel.com/SearchResult.aspx?lang=&ProductID=3742&ProdId=3742

You can use 500hz also it just depends where the quarter pie rolls off at on the high end. That's the nice thing about going active you can make all the adjusts and test in real time.

Since the t chip amps have volume controls use those to adjust the top end and leave the output of the minidsp at 0.

The high pass is the cutoff at the bottom end say 55hz or the bottom frequency at which the quarter pie loads the driver.

Forgot the part about the t chip amp. If it does not have a volume control you will have to use the volume setting in the mini dsp to lower the top end which is fine. I would start with -7 as your top horns are probably about that much more efficient than the bottoms. The minidsp has a parametric eq built in so you use that for the fronts and center.

Yes you can use one for the front left and right and one for the center. As far as level matching I also have a minidsp umik 1 I use for measurements. The first thing I would do is run frequency sweeps of the speakers using rew. Place the mic 3-6 feet from the speakers at ear level. Look at the graphs and if below and above 400hz is is not even (except at the crossover point as this requires time alignment)then adjust the gains on either the woofer or tweeter amp until they are. With as efficient as your speakers are the gains should not have to be turned up past 1/4 of the way on the amp for the top and maybe half way on the bottom. Remember the top end is more efficient than the bottom. I'm still getting mine all setup as I'm using a 4 way per left and right front. Also the frequency sweeps will help to get the drivers time aligned. You want the frequency to be flat at the crossover. To do this adjust the delay on the top end output as the bottom end has the longer horn. I would start with a few milliseconds and work my way up. Also the 4th order LR sums flat at the crossover so you will not have to do anything with the phase of the drivers. The best part about going active is you can make all the changes you want on the fly. Don't be afraid to try different slopes either as you may prefer one over the other, but depending on the one you choose could cause the drivers to become out of phase.

If you are using one minidsp 2x4 kit per speaker you can do the 2 way advanced or stereo 3/4 way which will also work for a 2 way. If I was only going with a 2 way setup I would use one minidsp box for the front left and right speaker as it has two inputs and four outputs plus everything can be programmed on the one box. To start with settings I would just choose a 400hz crossover and use the LR 24Db slope. You will have to match driver levels by ear and adjust the volume of each driver using the gains on the amp leave the minidsp output at 0. The unit also allows time alignment and custom biquad crossover settings. All of the advanced features are pretty useless without some sort of measurement setup. Lastly using the unbalanced versions of the minidsp might not provide enough voltage to fully drive your amps. In my setup I use the 2x8 minidsp and will never go back to passive crossovers in my front speakers as I love the ability to be able to tweak setting on the fly.

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It is very difficult to get rid of the 2485's as they are bar none my favorite 2 inch compression driver. They have a very smooth sound. I have owned about 10 different 2 inch drivers and none have the sound quality of these. If it was not for the once in a life time chance to purchase k402's the jbls would not be going anywhere.

klipsch k1133

replied. Just to add the I have been using the horns with a 300-4500 crossover and they sound excellent. They are meant to sit flat the back bracket balances them. Due to the mdf they are not light. The dimensions of the horn are 24*13.5*17.5 without the mounting brackets and I'm guessing close to 15-20 pounds per horn without drivers installed. If it were not for purchasing a pair of k402's I would not be getting rid of this combination.

Well I have the chance to purchase a pair of k402's so in order to fund the purchase I have to get rid of a few items: - JBL 2485j 2inch compression drivers- These are one of the only drivers that will play cleanly to 300hz. The diaphragms were replaced 2 years ago with oem jbls. Also they were totally gone through by a jbl tech last year,had the gaps cleaned,new gaskets installed, and oem jbl speaker posts. They have consecutive serial numbers and very closely matched dcrs of 9.2 and 9.4. These rarely if ever come up for sale. Also the big bell shaped housing with the badges are for protection only as with them the speakers are weather proof. Asking $700 and the price if firm. The diaphragms alone were $500. Shipping in CONUS only in 2 separate boxes. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCAQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jblpro.com%2Fpub%2Fobsolete%2F2485.pdf&ei=kzT_U6WTKczPggTm3oH4Bw&usg=AFQjCNG8X_N-EJcAZKVB8i7dxSNkTHmD7g&bvm=bv.74035653,d.eXY - 223fc 2 inch tractrix horn pair- These are based on the plans jwc provided. They are made from 3/4 inch mdf for the tops and bottoms and dual 1/4 mdf on each side. They are painted black satin. Included is all the hardware to mount the drivers to the horns. Asking $300 plus shipping - 2 QSC RMX 850 amplifiers. They have a few scratches here and there , but are functionally 100%. I was using these in my tri amped setup but I'm no longer going to be needing them. $150 plus shipping in the CONUS only http://qsc.com/products/Power_Amplifiers/RMX_Series/RMX_850/ I would really like to sell the horns and drivers together as they are the perfect match for each other I have included a measurement of the driver to the actual horn. Also I tried to include as many pics as possible of the drivers and horns. Local pickup is always welcomed from area code 46706. Located in Auburn Indiana about 2.5 hours from Chicago, Indy, and Detroit.

Buyer of the chase subs backed out so they are available.

Bump. Chase subs sold. Rest still available.

You would not be disappointed with the 2242's in those cabinets. They are direct drop in replacements.

Daily bump