Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by shepjk01

  1. Looking for the originals . I can build them but if someone has some for a reasonable price why build
  2. Looking for a pair of alk universals. I figured I would check to see if anyone has a pair they are thinking of selling before I build my own for the 3rd time.
  3. added some finished pics of the horns
  4. The horns are the stock eliptrac 400's which are setup for 2 inch drivers. I know dave sells 1 inch adapters for k55's. You can find them here http://www.fastlaneaudio.com/eliptrac.html As far as making them work in a stock khorn you would need the adapters, make some new grill covers and some crossover work.
  5. Lowered price from $375 to $345.
  6. At one time I thought about the bigger eliptarc 240's for myself instead of k402's , but after completing this kit I'm glad I went with the 402's. The sanding involved just takes way to much time and this is coming from someone that's hobby is woodworking. Unless someone is dead set on the kit spend the extra and buy them from dave completed. I probably have 15 hours in the kit between building, sanding,sanding, more sanding and painting..
  7. SOLD! Also these horns are setup for 2 inch exit compression drivers. You can buy adapters to use them with k55's go here for more info http://www.fastlaneaudio.com/eliptrac.html ​
  8. jbl woofers are sold. I still have the cabinets which are tuned to work with k33's, crities woofers or jbl 2226's.
  9. jwc Been a little while since we have talked. As far as the direction I will go I haven't decided yet. For the short term I'm going to use a pair of lascalas I have sitting around. I'm thinking of savings up and purchasing a pair of jubilees. I talked to the wife about it and she let me know the only way she would go for it is if I let go of a few items. I really like the jbl 2226's for bottoms. I thought about just buying a k402/k69 combo and using that with the dbbs. In the end if I'm going to go with the k402 I want the whole jubilee.
  10. Yes same cabinets different woofers. Added the hardwood trim to the bottom. They have been collecting dust for a while. If there is no interest in the cabinets this time around I'm going to be repurposing them.
  11. Well I have been gone around 8 months and just got back into town a few weeks ago and have decided to part with a few items 2. MiniDsp 2x8 active crossover. The minidsp board is installed in a 1ru rack case along with rca input jacks and balanced output jacks. Completely plug and play. The board costs 299 and the shipping fees were around $40. The 1ru rack case was $80 and another $50 for all the hardware. I'm asking $340 plus shipping in the CONUS only. If you are looking to go active with your system this is an economical way to go. The sound quality is also excellent for an active crossover. http://www.minidsp.com/products/minidspkits/2-x-in-8-x-out Also I would be willing to trade the minidsp for a pair of alk universal crossovers. I could use them in some lascalas. 3. 3 Qsc Rmx 850 amplifiers. The amps are in good cosmetic condition and excellent operating condition, they have silent fans installed. I was using them to power my surrounds. Asking 140 per amplifier plus shipping in the CONUS only.http://qsc.com/products/Power_Amplifiers/RMX_Series/RMX_850/ 5. Pair of SEOS-12 waveguide with Denovo Audio dna-360 drivers from diy soundgroup. The drivers are 1 inch and are copies of the b&c de250. They actually measure a little better. The drivers and horns are new. They cost $216 plus the shipping. Asking $150 plus shipping for both in the CONUS only. If you want just the drivers $130 plus shipping. If you want just the horns $35 plus shipping. http://www.diysoundgroup.com/plastic-seos-12/plastic-seos-matte.html http://www.diysoundgroup.com/compression-drivers/dna-360.html
  12. I am confused still... So you are crossing over at 500hz but your bass bin has the Hi Pass bypassed? Shouldn't there be something that shows how low the bass bin goes? You don't have to use a high pass in the minidsp. It just protects the driver. Also most avrs come with a built in high pass for each speaker.
  13. The horn should also be set to 400hz. This allows it to sum flat at the crossover.
  14. Yes for output 1. know set output 2 up as your top end with a 400hz highpass and bypass the lowpass
  15. input 1 goes to output 1&2 so you need to use output 1 for the quarter pie output 2 for the midrange. input 2 goes to outputs 3&4 so output 3 for the other quarter pie and output 4 for the other midrange. Also you have to unclick the bypass button on the quarter pie high pass filter. Notice on your frequency response graph the output of the quarter pie is not dropping at 50hz.
  16. No not on the minidsp each channel controls a different driver so say output 1 goes to the woofer it would have a high pass and a low pass. The high pass would be the cutoff of the quarter pie and the low pass the 400hz. Say output 2 goes to your midrange/upper end driver it only needs to use the high pass at 400hz then bypass the low pass filter as its not needed this creates your 400hz crossover. Also on output 1 uncheck the highpass as you want it set at 50hz or the cutoff of the quarter pie.
  17. The AA uses a very shallow slopes I think 6 db on the woofer and 12 on the mid could be wrong on the mid. I would take a frequency response measure as stated with the AA in and use it as a baseline. Note the position of the volume on your denon and also of the mic. Now when you go active place the mic in the same position and the denon on the same volume. Adjusts the gains on your amps to match up to the other graph db wise. This will get you a baseline.
  18. The mic will do what is needed. It will not be as perfect as using the loopback, but it will get you close enough. You can use calculations to get a baseline start then look at the frequency response at the crossover point. When drivers are time aligned and level matched using a LR 24db slope it will be flat at the crossover. The first thing is to make sure the drivers are level matched then you can mess with the delay and dial the delay in until you get it as flat as possible at the crossover point. Also speaker time alignment is only perfect at the place you align them at. You can also run a measurement sweep in rew and look at the impulse response. If one driver is delayed it will show up in the time between impulse response peaks.
  19. You don't need a sound card with the minidsp UMIK-1 as it is a usb mic. Here is the download link for the intel nic to install the latest graphics drivers which provide the audio you need for the umik to work in REW. https://downloadcenter.intel.com/SearchResult.aspx?lang=&ProductID=3742&ProdId=3742
  20. You can use 500hz also it just depends where the quarter pie rolls off at on the high end. That's the nice thing about going active you can make all the adjusts and test in real time.
  21. Since the t chip amps have volume controls use those to adjust the top end and leave the output of the minidsp at 0.
  22. The high pass is the cutoff at the bottom end say 55hz or the bottom frequency at which the quarter pie loads the driver.
  23. Forgot the part about the t chip amp. If it does not have a volume control you will have to use the volume setting in the mini dsp to lower the top end which is fine. I would start with -7 as your top horns are probably about that much more efficient than the bottoms. The minidsp has a parametric eq built in so you use that for the fronts and center.
  • Create New...