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cc1091

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  1. The tech person that told me to clean and resolder is someone working at a company that supplies avionics to the military. He has a house (and soon a garage) littered with small projects in some state of repair/rebirth. Most of the projects are for himself. Not all are electronics. He's a regular Doc Brown (Back to the Future) wanna-be. I'm sure the reason why he gave me the step by step instructions was because he didn't want the responsibility himself or the chunk taken from his time. That's fine, I'm always up for learning. Now I know I remember him saying why he preferred Formula 409 and a water rinse over Isoprophyl alcohol, but I can't remember what he said. Good point about the salts though. CC
  2. I remember a few years back how someone in these forums went to the ear doctor, got his ears cleaned out, and then was stunned about how much better his system sounded. I just had a similar experience, but not because of ear wax cleaning. My 200WPC amp that drives my mains had just recently developed an annoying humm. I checked the wires leading to and from the amp. I also pulled and replaced all the fuses in the amp. No luck. My other amp was working fine from the same power source, so I was sure the problem was in the amp. I didn't want to take it to the local stereo shop where they would pack it up and send it to a local service center only to have it come back 'fixed' and sounding no better than when it left (and usually at a minimum charge of $50 plus shipping). So a friend of mine who works daily on non-audio electrical equipment at his job suggested something radical. After he checked the system to see if it was running within spec, he said something like this: " I bet it is one of these two caps on the left side of the amp that is causing the humm. But before we think about replacing those, take the circuit board off of the cooling fins so you can get at the side of the board where everything is soldered. First clean it with Formula 409 and a soft brush (of course with no power to the amp), and then rinse it with water: Just a light spray of water to get the cleaning residue and any dust left after the cleaning formula off of it. Once that is done, let it dry over an Air conditioning vent for a few days. Then, I'm going to have you attach two wires to each of the suspect caps, one to the negative terminal, and one to the positive. Then, while you're back there, touch the soldering iron to each soldered connection for about five seconds..just enough to get the solder heated. Once you've done all this, reassemble the circuit board to the cooling fins, and then reinsert it into the chassis of the amp. Once it is remounted, put some black electrical tape over each of those wires I had you attach to the caps so that they don't touch anything. Those wires will be how we check the integrity of the caps if you still hear a humm when you plug it back in." Well, I did what he said. I never had to use the wires connected to the caps because when I plugged the amp back into the system and turned it on, WOW! It was quieter than I have ever heard it. "Well, is it really on?" I thought, so I fired up the preamp and added a movie. Oh YES; it was working just fine. In fact, I've never heard the highs be so crisp and distinct. Nor have I heard the bass be so overwhelming and solid. It was like a new amp....or maybe like having my ears cleaned. I don't think I would suggest this to everyone. And I will probably not try it again unless I get a similar situation. Plus, even this uneducated ear can tell the difference between a minor electrical humm and a full blown "man you really screwed up your amp" power arcing humm. So I guess you try this as a fix only when you suspect a cap or a ground is going bad and can hear it well enough that it affects your enjoyment. Of course, if you're made of money, you can buy new and sell the old on Ebay. Your choice. Happy listening. CC
  3. I own a pair of 1981 Heresys. I am their original owner. I agree that the bass does roll off quite quickly after about 80 hz or so. I don't believe that there is any real modification that could be done to their cabinet, or crossover, or drivers to change that. In fact I've always found that the bass driver was rolled off quite quickly because there were som annoying resonances that show up at about 80 hz and below. With my speakers, I like to make sure that no frequency below 90 hz gets sent to them. Any information that is below 90 hz is redirected to the sealed box subwoofer of my RP-3s (relatively quick response subs that go down to 30 hz). Anything below 30 hz is routed to a single separate bass reflex sub. I don't turn that sub on unless I am really missing the extreme low frequency info. The other problem with the older model Heresy's is that they don't reproduce high frequency info beyond about 17Khz. Your friend's LaScalas probably also didn't reproduce those unless they are brand new models. I think the Heresy IIs did finally go up to 20Khz. THere are new drivers and crossovers that fix this problem I am told, but I haven't made the investment yet. Choosing to supplement the high frequencies with the output from my RP3s. When I first purchased my Klipsch RP-3s, I put away my Heresys. But there is still something golden magical about the midrange and tweeter. I hope you enjoy your Heresys.
  4. So if I had a pair of 1980 Heresy's that I liked, and still sounded good, but whose cabinets were somewhat damaged to the point where it would likely be beneficial to replace them instead of keeping them original; and if I had a pair of Rp-3s whose sound was nice, and whose bass was very impressive, but overall, the speakers don't have the punch of the Heresy's...and then I saw the new JBL Project Array speakers and said, "Why can't I construct something like that using the Klipsch parts?" Ummm..well how crazy would that be? Oh yeah, I already have a crossover that lets me use the bass of the RP-3s with the full range of the Heresy's. Biggest problem is getting rid of that awful heresy woofer and still covering the range of mid bass that the horn isn't supposed to cover. Any input...short of spending about $25K on the Project Array?
  5. Here's another picture from the back of the unit looking toward the midrange panels. An interesting view for you crossover junkies.
  6. I know there are a number of people who participate in this forum who dabble in speakers other than Klipsch. Since I am not referring to one of my Klipsch speakers, I posted here in the general questions area. I hope no one is offended. I recently acquired from a friend a free set of speakers. With his house remodeling going on, he didn't have room for all his stereo gear. So he asked me if I would like to take his Infinity RS 2.5s off his hands. Like any audio buff, I said "sure." Now this didn't come without strings attached. This particular pair of speakers has two of Infinity's EMIT tweeters and two of their EMIM midranges. As it happens, two of these midranges need replacing. Infinity doesn't manufacture replacement diaphrams for the EMIM midrange or the EMIT tweeter anymore. EMIT diaphrams are still available in limited quantities, but the EMIM diaphrams are scarce. When you can find one, count on paying good money for it. I was wondering if any of the knowledgable people here on the Klipsch forum could suggest a source for a replacement diaphram? I've heard of a german company that sells replacement units that can be installed with minor cabinet and crossover modifications, but I would like to keep these speakers as close to original as I can. Thanks in advance for any help CC
  7. I've had standard Broadband cable with AT&T and MediaOne. When I moved to my new house, the DirecTV dish was already mounted. I went to the local audio store and bought a cheap standard video DirecTV box, card and contract. Connected it all myself. The picture was awesome. The sound was awesome (all despite long line feeds from the dish on one end of my house, and the receiver at the other end of my house). Price at that time was $15 less and had more channels and features. I assume that the difference in quality between normal broadband cable and sattelite based cable will be similar in the HD arena. My theory is that there is less infrastructure of questionable quality between you and the originating broadcast signal. The local channels rebroadcast through the Sattelite do sometimes have a lot of garbage, but its never been worse than I had much of the time with broadband cable. Yes, during heavy rainstorms and snowstorms, I do have a few outtages. But with cable, when there was a rainstorm on the other side of the city, but it was only wet on my side, I would have outages too. My outtages clear up within about a half hour (if they last that long). cable outtages last for hours until they find the tree that fell on their access node. Like others posting here. I too have noticed that in the past year DirecTV has been cheapening. Not quite as reliable. Customer service quality has fallen. Features disappeared to supposedly be replaced in the future (still waiting). Audio quality on some channels far exceeds that on others (and it seems that it isn't because that good sounding channel has better equipment). And the price has gone up. Still, I'd rather live with DirecTV than switch back to cable.
  8. cc1091

    Adcom

    I am currently using the Adcom GTP-830 Preamp/processor in my home theatre setup. The 860 and 880 are improved models from my 830. I've always liked the Adcom amps with the exception of a few models that came out in the late 90s and into 2000. The older amps always had high current capacity with reserves to spare. The older preamps on the other hand, sounded terrible. Considerable roll off and lack of life at the upper regions of the audio spectrum. Low end was somewhat muddled. Why then did I purchase the 830? Because I wanted a separate Pre/pro processor to drive my Rotel amps. The added incentive was that the local Ultimate Audio (then Audio King) was selling out all their Adcom gear and had this one unit left with no box, no manual, wrong remote control, and no power cord, ON SALE. I bought it with proof that the remote worked on this model and a new Monster power cord. I paid nearly 1/3 the suggested retail price. Result: It seems Adcom has cleaned up their preamps. There is some spatial airyness to the mid and upper range. The bass is clean, simple straight forward. Fairly transparent (some hiss for the rear channels though). Disappointments? Yes. Typical Adcom in the switching. They simplify things so much electronially that they shoot themselves in the foot when it comes to userfriendly. The HT system setup is either archaic or simplistic (My older denon HT Receiver had an infinitely better setup menu with greater flexibility). Running my CD player to the digtal decoders, I find that those are a little cheap (though better then the one in my cd player, I prefer the Burr-Brown units in my old denon HT receiver). The build quality of the unit is...cheap. On many occaisions I have lost a channel (left, right, or sub) because the internal board that houses the RCA connectors has come loose from the main board it is connected to (think of a computer motherboard and its IDE cards coming loose, same layout). I also have learned to keep a few fuses on hand (though that is less of a problem lately as when I first brought the unit home). Otherwise, my unit is a clean and simple sounding no frills unit. I don't think I would pay retail price for it ever though. But for the $450 I paid, it does a fine job. Skunks the Denon HT receiver (AVR-2700) on clarity. I would hope that the Adcom 860 and 880 have a better setup menu and an improvement on the digital decoder (motorola chips) that they used in the 830. The 860-II looks like a vastly improved unit. Sorry I can't help you with any info on the AMP, except to say that even hardcore Adcom enthusiasts were so disappointed with some of Adcom's recent Amplifier offerings that I can't imagine that Adcom hasn't addressed those issues by now. Anthony Cordesman (http://www.disinfopedia.com/wiki.phtml?title=Anthony_H._Cordesman) reviewd the GTP880 and the GFA7807 (http://www.adcom.com/pdfs/AUDIOPHILE%20VOICECordesman%20REVIEW.pdf). These units are upscale from the units you're asking about, but Mr Cordesman is well respected for his audio reviews (and an expert in other areas too) and captures the essence of what you can expect from Adcom in these kinds of units.
  9. cc1091

    KL-650THX

    Has anyone had a chance to hear these new speakers or the rest of the THX Ultra2 system? I was wondering if the 650 THXs were boomy/distorted in the 90hz range since most ported speakers usually can be counted on for that. Otherwise, the specs look impressive. To bad the price range is so steep for the system.
  10. I just looked through the Klipsch web site's list of Classic speakers for the Heresy (I own 1981 Heresy's and wanted to look at the factory specs). I almost didn't recognize the Heresy they have posted there as a Heresy. This must be one of the originals? Quite a specimen. The enlarged photo doesn't look as nicely finished as I originally thought, but with a little design sense and a good cabinet builder, could be a good direction to take my speakers that are in need of external help (a story I'd rather not go into concerning a drop of 5 feet...still sound great, even 15 years after the incident). http://www.klipsch.com/product/product.aspx?cid=114 CC
  11. You'll never guess where my mind was when I opened this thread. Returning from the gutter for a moment... Interesting how when I purchased my Heresy's (1981) I would have sworn the literature said they had a 10" woofer. Now I see all the info I find on this website says 12". The measured dimension seems to verify what is being said in this thread though. Has the way they measured the driver changed? Seems to me that I remember as a kid that the television industry suddenly changed how they measured the viewable surface of the television screen.
  12. Inferior materials? Maybe inferior looking materials. One of my Heresy speakers survived a 5 foot drop early in its life. Yeah, there's still the crushed edge of the wood cabinet, but the drivers never suffered. All are secure and straight as when they were originally mounted. I agree, about the sound of the Legends vs the Reference RF7, 5 and 3 or the RP5 or RP3. Reference sounds cleaner than Legends IMHO. About Reference vs non-Klipschorn Heritage speakers, well, The Reference have a more tonal extended bass, and the Reference have better point source characteristics, but even the Heresy will just overwhelm the Reference in that "make yer body feel like your in a rock concert" category. I even like them better for listening to the symphony from the vantage point of the "director's chair" rather than from "somewhere back toward the back of the auditorium"...if you know what I mean.
  13. Sorry for the delay in getting back to the forum. Work, holidays, various other responsibilites co-opting my time. I wasn't able to read through all the responses here, I apologize. It seems that some understood exactly what I was saying, and a few did not. No, I did not intend to say that Reference and Synergy speakers (at least for the most part) are sounding more and more alike, yet it does seem that Klipsch is bent on adding speakers to the Reference line that may be better suited for addition elsewhere. Those who say that Reference is or has become an overused word are more to my point. I'm sure there are examples throughout the industry, but I am focusing on Klipsch. As the title of the thread says, "When Reference no longer means Reference". Yes, I am accusing Klipsch of adding models to their *Reference* line that in my opinion should actually be placed in a line of their own. Their appearance here only serves to dilute the overall audio expectation of the Reference line. Maybe they are telling me that I never should have expected a *Reference* in their Reference Line. Maybe they are telling me that as a consumer I was naive to believe that Klipsch would want to produce a quality modern speaker that they could point to and say, "This is our Reference." Yes it seems it is true, Reference is just a marketing ploy used to goad on the consumer to spend a little extra to buy Klipsch named speakers in that special "Reference" line. Even those speakers that do not live up to the sound type that made Klipsch a legend. Fortunatly we still have the original Heritage line, untouched except for the often missed Cornwall. Yet even *authorized* Klipsch dealers rarely have Heritage models to audition. When did the Heritage line fade into audio store history? Was it with the introduction of the Synergy Line? The Reference Line? The Legend Line? The KG series? I see the dilution of the Reference line as just another symptom of what took the Heritage line from store showrooms. Perhaps soon we will be looking high and low for anything of the quality and size of an RF-7. Maybe soon, the best we can hope to audition in our local stores is a hundred models of Reference speakers that sound little better than your average Bose. I would hope for a better standard from the legend that is Klipsch.
  14. Sorry folks, but I gotta say something: Has anyone else noticed the addition of several models to the Reference line that one might normally associate with other, less expensive lines? There seems to be a trend here that I am not liking. You had better buy that Heritage line speaker while its still available. Who knows, they may start adding extra models there too. Or maybe they will just combine the Synergy and Reference line and call it the Mitigation Line.
  15. HWO - What is that guys? Hard Wood Oiled? I bought my Heresy's in the summer of 1981. They are the cheap raw birch unfinished model. $660 plus tax for the pair. I still have them despite the abuse that followed that summer. Great find. Congratulations.
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