98_1LE_2

I have owned a pair since 1995, and have three more pairs now. I like them, a lot.

I am happy with mine:

I did my best by hand/ears, saved off the config, and ran the Audessey program. Other than bumping the sub several db's I have changed nothing and prefer the Audessey derived sound to what I was able to do.

Yes they will work just fine, although I found that a KG2.2V (or2.5V if you find one) sounds better with the 2.2's than the KV-3, although the 3 looks a lot better. I am selling off my bedroom system to make space and finance a NAS filer for movies, but have listened to a similar system for many years.

Bill Nice setup! <3 finished wood La Scala's

Thanks for the kind words ya'all. A good friend of mine a lineman for AT&T and helped me pretty up the cabling. He really is a magician and would not be as pretty without his help.

Wow, some very nice setups in here.

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I finally finished this recently (although replacing the coax with Ethernet is coming up this weekend lol) and thought I would post pics. Almost everything was from monoprice.com and I am very satisfied with the quality of their products.

Now that I have had this sub for months I thought I would follow up. This sub is amazing. Without corner loading (it sits along the back wall of a 20x21 room that is pretty open to the kitchen behind the sub). There have been times where a bass effect was felt and not heard. The bass doesn't feel like it does in a car, especially in the center of the room, but is pronounced. Everything in the living room that rattled has been dealt with, but things in every other room of the house rattle then the movie is cranked up. Without question I would buy it again.

So far I have only watched three movies with the new sub and system. Basically untuned I am happy, knowing there is improvements to be had. Without the benefit of corner loading, which the KSW12 had in its favor, early reports would be that this thing blows the little Klipsch out of the water... I am very confident I will not be disappointed with this sub.

It arrived today.

My dad and I are going to build a sub for my bedroom. He already has several sheets of 3/4" MDF, and a sheet a finished stainable plywood (I believe it is oak). I have not designed or built a sub since '94 or so, so please be my second set of eyes. Trying to keep this under $300 including driver, amp, feet, hardware and port. The plan is a to use a Dayton 12" Titanic Mk III sub, paired with a Dayton SA240 240W amp. The internal enclosure volume would be 3.666 ft^3, with a 3" flared port 12" in length. Goals are a sub that will play down to (or close to) 20Hz, at lower volume levels. Planned box design is a tad unusual, and where I would like feedback. It will basically be a box within a box. The innermost box will be made from the 3/4" MDF, all mating surfaces glued, panels screwed together, all seams siliconed and clamped to dry. At that point we plan to use liquid nails to attach a finished plywood outer box, then use screws from the inside to attach it. The only planned internal bracing is a piece of angle iron screwed and glued down the center of the longest side (the side behind the driver. A larger hole will be cut in the outer box such that the driver is recessed. Finally the corners will be rounded off, the whole thing sanded, stained, and assembled. This is more about a father and son project than a sub, but will be cherished for many years to come.

Thanks, order placed for that and a 2GB pen drive.

I am looking at how to run cables for the sound system. Any issues regarding banana plugs that I need to know about. I am considering the 7.1 Surround Sound Distribution Wall Plate and single wall plates at each speaker. Wire would be 12 gauge and run in the wall/thru the attic. Everything from from monoprice.com. I would prefer to solder the plugs to the wire in the room, and solder the sire directly to the plate behind the wall. Any issues with this?

Thanks everyone. One thing I want to be sure of in advance is video signal upconversion. The signal out of my DVR is 1080i (Uverse). Would there be any issues connecting the DVR to the reciever using component and fiber optic, having the receiver upconvert the signal to HDMI? Right now I only have two sources, Blu-Ray and Uverse. If I go with the 2808 and connect as previously stated, that would leave one HDMI for growth.

Powdered milk becomes milk when water is added, then when it warms up, it sours. When I was a kid we sprinkled it in a teacher we didn't like yard during spring and fall when dew was sure to form.

It is always best to get along with your neighbors. An old saying is "good fences make good neighbors". But at this point I would inform him that he is not to come onto my property, and if he does so again for any reason, I will pursue criminal trespass charges. Next time you are going to be away for a few days, sprinkle some powdered milk in your yard.

It might be complicated to build, but a horn sounds ideal to this

I am a little over budget for my HT upgrade and would like to save a little on the receiver. The rest of the system is listed in my sig, although much of it is on order and not here yet. Regardless the original plan was to buy the 3808. I don't need the extra power, plan to use the receiver to switch HDMI, and am curious if there are other compelling reasons to pay the extra for the 3808? At the $800-$1000 price point, is there another receiver I should consider?

KSW12 was the previous sub. It is on eBay now, and the eD is 4-8 weeks out, so I will be without for a short time. I didn't want to spend this much, but have been disappointed with both home subs I have previously purchased, and didn't want to be this time.

I ordered a eD A7 - 450 today. Should be here in 4 weeks.

Thanks, I think I will run a pair of 20-amp circuits also. One for the receiver (Denon 3808) and TV, and one for the sub (not sure yet, but probably 1300w eD). I dont plan to do the work myself, and have a buddy that is an electrician (and dad that is a retired EE). I don't get on the roof, and I don't play with electricity.

At what point does it make sense to run a dedicated circuit for the HT, or at least the receiver/amplifier and sub?

Thank you!

What would be the best sub for a larger room (20x21) at a $1000 and $1500 price points? Floor space and/or enclosure size are a non-issue. How does the Dayton T1503A 15" sub compare to the SVS 20-39 PC+?