jason str
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Posts posted by jason str
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Don't always take the doctors words to heart, when my granny was on her way out they gave her weak heart a few months max, she lasted years until she fell & broke her hip and was killed by a blood clot.
Now if i could only get pops to stop smoking and eating ice cream twice a day.
Best wishes for you and your family.
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Countersink the nails & use wood filler to match your wood tone/color.
The other way out is veneer or thin plywood.
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Follow the plans and you will have no problems.
Use nails, the glue (P.L. premium) holds the project together. Biscuits are unneeded.
Once the project is together there is no way to fix your mistakes besides cutting the sub open, P.L. expands and will have your back.
You may get more help with cut sheets using Bill's forum, i have not seen any personally besides whats in the plans.
I did not use any clamps, just scrap pieces of wood & nails like everything else i built in the past 30 years.
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The Highly Desirable Gate Valve..........
Dennie
Why did i not think of this ? A perfect fix for those harsh horns. [^o)]
One of these for each driver is just a fix it all valve.
A quick sonic fix with some fancy speaker wire to top it off and you're set for life.
( Be sure to break in that wire before making your final decision ). [:^)]
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Most hardware stores will have some kind of material for gasket making.
Tape backed insulation will work, cork, construction paper, you get the idea.
Glad you found something local. Shipping cost is outrageous sometimes, even here in the good old US of A.
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Just use a plain old hammer & trim nails, 2 or 3 nails hand pounded nails won't kill ya.
Most air nailers leave a indentation in your work anyways leaving you more finish work in the long run.
If you can't find screws you like from P.E. find something that suits your fancy from your local hardware store & just get the T nuts from P.E.
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I used a different woofer for my build, ask P.E., they may be of more help regarding your driver.
Tack your panel with trim nails, do not bang em all the way in for easy removal ( be sure its straight, this will be its final resting place), then drill out your bolt holes.
Remove your panel, drill out the holes in the cabinet to fit your T nuts.
Install your T nuts and install your panel.
You may want to use some washers on the heads of your panel bolts so not to mar up your panel.
Nothing to line up if its done properly. [
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Happy birthday Amy,
Hope all your birthday wishes come true.
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Buy the 50 pack of T nuts and bolts, you will need them for the woofer mounting and the access panel, using self tappers may work OK but if you need to get to the driver for any reason the self tappers will strip out rather quickly making nothing but a headache with noisy leaks robbing you of performance from your new build.
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You will need an amp for power.
T- nuts and bolts for driver installation and access door installation.
You may want to add some rubber feet so not to scratch your floors when moving.
Hardware store goods:
Trim nails to hold your project together while it dries.
2 tubes of PL Premium
18" off the wall is preferred but not necessary, wall or corner loading will add volume but for the most part not necessary.
I will suggest some round speaker cable to make your runs easier unless you plan on using the access door for mounting, then it really does not matter.
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Everyone must have one, read the rave reviews.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=110-439&vReviewShow=1#reviews
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PL is a great product for construction projects, dries fairly quick and very strong.
Lots of good driver options out there, Bill says anything within 10% of the specs can be used but its probably best to ask if theres any question.
These are some of the options i know of.
Dayton RSS390HF-4
Dayton DCS380-4 & if i recall somebody had good results with a 385 model but don't quote me on this.
12" version = Eminence LAB 12
More options are available on the forum if needed.
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Two Tuba HT of any size would be major overkill for any high performance system in the home, you really cant use all the output, don't be afraid to think smaller if going for the pair.
You may want to block & insulate your floor joists before you install the ceiling to keep the noise and vibrations down.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-570' target="_blank"> -
I'm using MultEQ that's on my processor. It does make quite an improvement on my subs, but the BFD is still necessary.
Although sub frequencies are said to be omni directional, with these high output subs, thier location is easily distinguished with any nearfield placement. It's hard to hide 120db flapping your pants around! I could always tell if it was coming from my left or right when I tried sidewall placement. You may want to consider this. I found mine had to be 15' from me otherwise I knew right where it was.
At the full price of the Danley, and having heard what the Tubas can do, I would build a Tuba. Of course, the Danley kit was.....well, you know.
Sounds about right, build 2 smaller Tuba HT's, if i had the room this would already be running here.
The minimum size for the 15" driver is 18" wide ( 18 x 36 x 36 ) or the 12" driver version ( 15 x 36 x 36 ).
Constructing 2 at a time would not be the worst thing, once the first few steps are completed it comes natural if you enjoy woodworking.
Most of your time will be waiting for the poly to dry, making 2 will be more constructive with your time if you keep busy with the project.
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If the Spud plays fine midbass like the Tuba a pair would serve nice.
Where will this riser reside in the room layout ?
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According to the literature the maximum output is equal @ 126 Db.
The Tuba is more efficient & probably lighter as it uses 1/2" stock, size is unreasonable on both cabinets i see @ 11 x 48 x 45 the Spud is larger than the average potato.
Anybody in Chicagoland have one of these so we can A/B the two ?
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The THT may be built with a 12" driver making a 15" width cabinet another option.
Unless you plan on entering a SPL competition you will be fine with either choice.
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If you like the bass you get form the big horn loaded Klipsch you will love the Tuba HT.
Another sub will not be needed in conjunction.
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It really depends on the room in my experience...though the Chorus I and II series voiced the woofer a bit soft, so corner placement is almost necessary to keep the tonal balance even with the mids.
I ran my Chorus II's as you see them here for many years and the only complaint i had was the magnets from the drivers were distorting my television, a set of bucking magnets were ordered from Klipsch and installed, problem solved.
The sets i have had minus the pair shown here ( sold to Silversport ) have never left me with a feeling that i was missing out on something, i have experimented many times over in different households and sources, my newer set is stuffed in a smaller den with corner placement and they sound as good as ever.
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Let us know where & when the confiscated drugs will be burned, the marshmallow's are on me. [
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If you can swing a separate amp, do it and get a good one. This way you need only swap out pre/pros to keep up with changing technology. A good amp is basically timeless.
Well put. [Y]
Separate's are the way to go.
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My new (to me) NAD 1600 preamp has proved to be much better than what i previously had, the more i listen the better it gets.
All the harsh midrange is gone and the sound is much warmer than expected + the phono preamp has a adjustable filter that keeps the rumble in check.
This is a keeper in my opinion but it seems the journey for better sound never ends.
Since the Adcom unit is no longer in my near future the recommended units were the GTP 400 & 500, neither are extra fancy but i asked for something of quality & bulletproof, not the best of the best.
Maybe in the future more cash will be available for experimenting but for now all is well.
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Finally someone besides me with the balls to speak his mind about someone too many people here think can do no wrong. If you're interested in tube I can recommend someone who actually treats people the way he would want to be treated. Eventually people here will find out that Craig isn't the only person on the planet who sells, repairs or builds tube gear. My VRD's are sold awaiting gear from Ben at Modular electronics in Roswell Ga. His stuff smokes VRD's at a savings in price. Talented gentleman!poor and slightly unreasonable responses from Craig left me with a why bother feeling.
Cant say that too many people think that Craig can do no wrong. What I will say is that many people here have had great experiences dealing with him. I have had him re-furb at least 4 amps that I can think of. Additionally he modded my Merlin to terrific effect. Yes lots of people recommend him. They do so BECAUSE HE DOES WHAT HE SAYS WHEN SAYS AND HOW HE SAYS AND HE FOLLOWS UP TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU ARE PLEASED WITH THE RESULTS. Sorry for yelling. But you must be aware that most of the folks here have owned many an amp and have listened to many a schpeel and they know when they like something. Craig builds great stuff. Get over it.
People here are not idiots nor are they lemmings. For the most part they are experienced listeners to audio gear. After all who else would be spending time here?
JoshI feel that i went the extra mile to see for myself but.
#1 I wanted to see what i was getting upfront, instead was shown a nice generic picture of what may or may not be sent.
Would it have really taken much to pull some the offered parts out for me to look at ? [^o)]
#2 I offered to drive from Chicago to hand deliver my trade and have a look at the offering but he said was too busy to show anything (too many buns in the oven) to be exact.
#3 The last time i spent any time listening to tube powered was the console at grandma's house well over over 20 years ago so it seemed like a reasonable request for me asking to hear some of the man's products.
My time is valuable too but was not taken into consideration.
There was no way i was going to send out my valuable trade first thing ( as was requested to do ) without knowing what i was getting firsthand.
If this seems unreasonable to the normal person so be it.
No hard feelings on this side, just protecting myself.
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Thank you for the kind words fini, I'm just using the cards i was dealt.
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DIY sub for Klipschorn based HT (and music) - Tuba HT - build done (except for finish)!
in Subwoofers
Posted
If the dowel rod's are a must for you here are some options.
Use nails to construct, after everything is dry countersink the nails and use inlays to cover the holes.
Use screws to construct, after everything is dry remove your screws, drill your holes where the screws were and install your dowel rods.
Stain may stick to the poly but it aint gonna look pretty.