ACV92
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Posts posted by ACV92
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Just curious. I've owned the 5.5's since new. I've never thought of them as having any kind of substantial bass. They've always sounded like they had a glorified midrange driver when running by themselves. With a sub they always sounded good to me. I bought an SW-10 and these together so I just thought that's the way they were. I've read a bunch of reviews lately on these saying that they have great bass, or that they are using these with no sub. Do you think I've had a problem with the crossover's this whole time?
I've checked the wiring, the drivers, no scraping, checked at just over 8 ohm's each, and checked the cabinets. I've used them with a Marantz 110wpc receiver and currently am using a Yamaha 75wpc receiver. I made sure that with the Marantz the front setting was large and with the old Yamaha it runs the fronts full range regardless. I added bucking magnets to all the drivers years ago but never really noticed a difference in the sound.
I've tried different positions, corner, out from the wall, etc. Has anyone else ever had a pair of these and had a similar experience? It's only taken me over 20 years to think about this. Thanks.
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Vodka and I had a departure a long time ago. Back in high school, my buddy and I thought we'd show everyone how we could pound a fifth in about 20 minutes. Whoops. I passed out in my '79 Chevy truck as he was getting his *** kicked. Oh, those were the days. Coors light and a couple of sniffs of some Crown seem to do me just fine.
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Thanks, I appreciate the feedback! I didn't stage the mains as I had them. They're actually turned around backwards right now. As I said before, the drivers are out, that's what's in the grocery bags on my coffee table. I'm trying to keep critters, mainly our young cat, from using the cabinets as a play room and messing with the drivers on the table.
Hypothetical, let's say I move the mains more to the corners, toe-in. Setting the axes to where they cross in front of me would produce a better stage? I'll have to give it a shot. If I do the crawl test and find that the sub would be suitable next to one of the mains, between the stand and the speaker, do you see an issue with the windows directly behind either of those positions? Originally, I had thought that having any speaker in front of a window is a bad thing. Is it the resonance of a window compared to a wall that would cause issues? If it's not a bad thing, I've got plenty of room for a sibling UMAX, the first one is close to being done.
Risers on the 5.5's makes absolute sense to me. I feel that they would sound best if I was sitting on the floor with these. With where my ears are when sitting, I'm above all center vertical axes. I don't think I'm in the cancellation axis area but I've noticed that in many later Klipsch designs that the drivers are positioned high in the cabinets and typically have a greater overall cabinet height. I think my next set of mains will be RF-7's.
Anyway, thanks again and I'll let you know what I come up with.
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@wvu80 - Looks like it could be my hometown Zags and WVU in the next bracket.
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OK Gents, here goes. Please don't shred me to bad, I'm a sensitive guy, well, sort of. I've included pictures of the front of the room, back of the room, and a not to scale, remedial, overhead drawing. The room is in essence completely open. If you notice the walls to the bathroom and closet, left side on front of room pic, right side on back of room pic, they don't go completely to the ceiling. So, I have to pressurize the whole space. The room is roughly 519 sq. ft., 4455 cu. ft. The ceilings are vaulted; front and back of room measure 7' 7" to wall height, center of room 9' 7".
Let's get this out of the way. Yes, that is a CRT on top my stand. As I've said in other posts I mainly listen to music up here. That's a KV1 center on top of it. When I switch to a wall mounted LCD I'll bring in the KV3 that I have. I'm still working on a solution for surrounds, mainly placement.
So, as to my issues, my dresser that resides in front of the sub and next to the left main needs to be moved. I know this is causing early reflections of the left main and is affecting the soundstage, not to mention what it might be doing to the sub frequencies. The sound dispersion tree, I'll sell you the plans for one for $1,000, could be swapped with the dresser. The wife doesn't like it, but she doesn't sit up here as much as I do. Anyway, I could keep going but I'd like to get your input/recommendations. Thanks in advance.
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I had been experimenting with toe-in before I took the 5.5's apart. My testing wasn't complete but had noticed a considerable improvement in the imaging. The position I liked the most, so far, was with the axis about 1' on either side of my head. Left axis 1' from left ear, Right axis 1' from right ear. I know I need to send a couple of pics. I'll do it as soon as I can because I do have some questions.
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I agree with what all of you have said. I'll post a picture later today. Now, go easy on me when I do it's a bedroom setup that is seriously outdated, the bedroom and the equipment. It's the last on our upgrade list. I'd like to go over some constraints that I see that I have, valid or not, and see what you guys think I should do. I have read some on room acoustics, bass traps, etc. but would definitely value your opinions. In the meantime, I'm going to read the article that pzannucci referenced and then off to get some 400 grit to sand the Umax and finalize the priming process. Thanks.
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OK, here's the situation, I have the drivers out of my KG 5.5's, silicone is drying around the ports that I had to reseal, so I grabbed some two beer can high Advent speakers for some sound. I used to use them as rears a long time ago. Anyway, I set them on top of my empty 5.5 cabinets and I was pretty surprised by what I'm hearing. With the baby Advent's the soundstage is cleaner, less localization of the sub tones. The sub sounds like it's right in front of me, while it's placed in the left front corner. I hate to admit it, as I'm sure most of you are cringing, but I'm actually pushing these little guys and kind of enjoying it.
They are nowhere as clear, or dynamic, as the 5.5's but what the heck is going on with soundstage effect? I'm presuming that I have either some phase issues with the 5.5's, cancellation effects, the sub is crossed to high, etc. But as I'm listening now, the soundstage is again, very surprising. There's depth that I haven't noticed with the 5.5's while both sets of speakers are in the same relative position. Is it due to more of a separation of the low frequencies considering the smaller cabinet/driver?
My other question, maybe more to the point, is the height of the speakers. I notice that many of us, not all, have our floorstands, well, on the floor. Does the height of the speaker make a substantial difference with staging effects? If it does I might have to build some risers for the 5.5's. I don't know where to go from here. I just added Crites diaphragms to the 5.5's , my UMAX 15 cab is in primer waiting for a sanding, prime again, then on to paint. Damn weather here in the Northwest has not been favorable for cabinet finishing.
The INUKE 3000DSP is still in it's plastic bag sitting where it will be when I actually get to use it. Anyway, I've been studying and will have setup questions when I get there. For the time being though, what are your thoughts with these little Advents?
And yes, I have been drinking a little. In case anyone is wondering...
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I just used some clear silicone. Easy enough to remove if I ever change anything, which I probably won't. All driver's are out and I'm letting it dry for few days until the new diaphragms get here. Then back together and on to listening. Thanks.
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I found this a little on the extreme side.
http://gizmodo.com/obsessed-audiophiles-in-japan-are-installing-their-own-1785291714
When my neighbors washing machine is causing distortion in my system something has to be done. Maybe they're on to something here. I'm getting a quote tomorrow....
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I just found out that the plastic ports in my KG 5.5's just pull out. There is a bead of glue from the factory around the port but it obviously didn't hold up. I am thinking of removing the lower 10" driver and running an adhesive on the back of the panel around the port. I don't want to get adhesive on the front of the cabinet. How would you guys fix this and what would you use? Gorilla Glue or just a silicone adhesive? I'm going to have them on their backs anyway, I just ordered Crites diaphragms, so your help is appreciated.
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So how do I become a Berkshire Hathaway employee? I could spend a million bucks a year on audio alone! Well, that may be overstated but I'd damn sure give it a shot.
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Uhhhhh, meant WVU not TCU at 26 - 7. Duh...
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Nice come back win but, Gonzaga 32 -1, TCU 26 - 7, hmmm. We're going to have to see how this plays out. Little old GU in little old Spokane, WA. Go Bulldogs!
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Well, where I'm at Gonzaga is who we route for. I'm really not a B-ball guy but Mark Few is always hovering. Maybe this is the year..
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1 minute ago, wvu80 said:
After reading the first part of your post, I was wondering about that.
Be careful, your ears don't grow back like they did when you were young.
Yeah, but unfortunately the do keep growing..
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@SWL OK, I have no experience with tubas. I came across this website, http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/T24.html, is this the design you're referencing? I found it interesting that the 24, 30, and 45 design of these subs exhibit an almost 10dB gain between 60 - 100 Hz. 60 Hz on the low side, 100 Hz pushes to 10 dB up. Similar to what you've described. So, my rookie question is that at higher volume levels are the KLF-30's falling off at the 60 - 100 Hz range where crossing over the tuba is filling in? Is this a comparative gain issue?
I guess if it were me I would mic the KLF 30's by themselves at 60 - 65 dB and at the higher listening levels and see if there's a distinct difference in the graph. Next, I would do the same with the tubas and see if there's a blend point. Could you high shelf the tubas vs. low pass? Or, are you getting cancellation at higher dB levels? I'm throwing things at the wall to see if I'm beginning to understand real audio. I apologize for green horn syndrome. Don't mean to waste anyone's time.
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Those look good. Do you test placement before installing or do you rely more on Eq'ing, or both? Seems like an in ceiling would definitely be more involved than a standard sub setup. Although, in some situations you could probably get them closer to the listener versus a floor setup aligning with Dr. Hsu's philosophy of get them as close as possible.
Question for my box though. Do you guys know if Bondo, I bought an all purpose version, will stick to the PL residue? I've scraped some of it off but there is still some residual. I'm using Bondo to fill the seams before I prime/paint.
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I bought my KG 5.5's new and have a KV1 and the KV3 center channel. I've never been disappointed with them. I'm going to try some Crites diaphragms soon as my original ones are starting to sound hazy. The only thing I wish that I could change is the bucking magnets that I added to the 10's a long time ago. The magnets came from Klipsch and the technician I was on the phone with said that I would lose 1 dB in sensitivity, or was it output? I can't remember. If I could find the cups that went with them it would bring everything back to where it was.
Congrats on the 5.2's. Glad your enjoying them.
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If it were me I would use the 150M at the rear and use the 160M for the stereo setup. I don't think you'll lose a lot on the rear channels going to the 150M. The 160M is slightly more sensitive, drops a few dB's lower than the 150M, and handles a bit more power. You could try both in the stereo setup and see which you like more. It wouldn't surprise me if you found that the 160M sounded a little fuller though.
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So, my folks got me one of these bad boys when I was 7 or 8. I can't believe I found a picture of it. I used that thing to death. It had red, green, and yellow flashing lights and I would play all the 'latest' 45's, some of my folks stuff, and my Star Wars LP. Hi-Fi at it's pinnacle.......
My Dad didn't want me messing with his stuff. There were so many fun buttons to push though.
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Thanks for the tips guys. As a note on the glue debate, I just mentioned this to wvu80 in a PM, I decided to go with the PL. While it may hold through a nuclear blast I'm leaning towards Titebond, or another wood glue. The cure time on PL is 24 hours. I'm thinking I could have had the box built by now using another glue. And yes, the PL is thick. This is my first flat pack. It's not that complicated, I'm just learning for the next one. One more thing, as I told wvu80, I need more clamps!!!
Anything that you guys see wrong with this build by PE, it's an Ultimax 18: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcydtduDNec
I feel like I should have watched this first.
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Here' the right rear. Hopefully this helps someone..
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Didn't realize this was an older thread. Oh well, here's the left rear.
KG 5.5, not much bass
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
Thanks. I just pulled out one of the networks to see if I could see anything wrong but everything looks fine. I'll have to look into testing them.