hulkss

Here's a copy of my digital XO. 2 octaves sub bass 18 - 75 Hz 2 octaves mid bass 75 - 300 Hz 2 octaves midrange 300 - 1200 Hz 4 octaves treble 1200 - 19,200 Hz

Here's a rear view of one assembled.

Here's a pic of the PSE-144 kit before assembly.

No, there is a difference in the position of the midrange ports and their size and shape. The compression driver is also part of the equation as it interacts with the mids.

So how do they compare the Paul's molded 144's? The midrange drivers on the PSE-144's cover a full two octaves 300-1200 hz which is more than the Danley TD-2's that I have can do. I really like the PSE-144's and they match perfectly to a K-Horn. I would need to set up the TD-2's in the same room for a comparison. The PSE-144 horns have much better pattern control at 300 HZ since they are quite a bit larger. The point source design really beats separately placed horns like the factory K-Horn. I did run my K-horns quite awhile tri-amped and that was pretty darn good compared to passive. The K-horns sound better with a 300 Hz XO, no more vocals coming from the bass horn.

Who are you?

That's a 10 foot wide drop down screen and those are windows where you see reflections. The windows have three layer soundproof glass in them. The other "windows" are plugged with 2 layers of MDF with green glue damping adhesive between. The seats are: http://www.hjellegjerde.com/comfortcollection/?menu=367&product=262 To me, the best part of the set up can be achieved with the stock factory horns. I removed all the X-overs and multi-amped everything with Audiolense from: http://www.juicehifi.com/index.html The horns are a Danley Synergy type design sold as a DIY kit from Australia. I have a set of Danley horns in this room:

I put a set of PSE-144 horns on top in my home theater. Very nice indeed http://www.redspade.com.au/audio/PSE-144.php http://redspade-audio.blogspot.com/2014/08/pse-144-active-dsp-crossover-how-does.html?utm_source=BP_recent

The Altec is a 16 inch driver and is too big and does not fit. The BD-15 is only available from one source in the Netherlands and is very expensive. I am now listening to the Ciare 15.64NdW1. It mounts identically to the K33E and bolts right in to a La Scala II cabinet. I did have to open up the access hole a tiny bit to get it in. You can see in the photo where I filed on the opening. It is availabe here for $158. Ciare at Assistance Audio.

Not much. A reflector has to approach 1/2 wavelength in size to make a significant difference.

I opted to use a similar throat model in the LaScala as you used in the Khorn. That is, calculating throat area (S1) at the "splitter" after the horn doubles into two paths. Then entering the slot area as (Atc) area of the throat chamber. I also lengthened the last horn segment and shortened the middle segment slightly maintaining the overall length. This was to prevent the "Cir > 1" warning. The help file in "Hornresp" states that results are invalid if this message appears. I have modeled a lot of horns in "Hornresp". It takes fairly big percent changes in a model to make a significant difference in the SPL output. After all, a 6b change requires the acoustic pressure to double.

Yes, flat response down to 80 Hz looks possible for the LaScala by pulling down the peak. I'm going to give this Ciare 15.64 NdW1 a try. Available at Assistance Audio This is a Neo magnet woofer with lower mechanical damping and a more powerful motor (than the K-33) for quick high impact response.

Here are the Hornresp setup files and the driver parameters that I used.

Here are the same drivers I identified for the Khorn in the La Scala all on one graph. The Bob Crites driver is the only 4 ohm impedance "direct" replacement in the group.I tried to match the peak responses so they would be relatively easy to compare. I'm not sure if all these drivers will fit. The response is modeled with the speaker in "quarter space" (on the floor backed up to a wall). The drop in response below 100 Hz is consistent with my Audyssey setup results which recommended a 100 Hz crossover from the La Scala to the subwoofer.

I evaluated dozens of current production 15" drivers and could only find a few that would outperform the stock K33 by any significant amount. Here they are all on one graph. The Bob Crites driver is the only 4 ohm impedance "direct" replacement in the group. I tried to match the responses at 100 Hz so they would be relatively easy to compare. I'm not sure if all these drivers will fit. I'll model the same drivers in the La Scala next.

Greg Could you post the TS parameters for the current model K33E that you used and the source for them? I cant seem to find reliable information. Thanks.

Could someone please post a screen capture of the input window to model these two cabinets in "Hornresp" with the stock K-33 driver. Searching around, I am finding conflicting information. I have the means to measure my cabinets response and may try some other drivers if the "Hornresp" analysis and measurements would make it interesting enough to try.

OK, Here's another pic. That vertical blind on the right acts as a room divider if I need to block daytime light.

Look Here: Seymour AV I have one. Works great.

Originally written by Storm Shadow: Basically speaking, all sound travels in a sine wave. Sound waves (and sine waves) look like big boobs, especially low frequency sound. Nice, curvy titties. The more volume that you ask for, the bigger the tittie the amp has to produce. However, if you want too big of a tittie, and your amp can't give you anything more than a 36C, it still tries to give you what you need. But instead, it produces a truncated tittie. That looks like a big tittie with the top cut off. Then your speaker is like, "What the **** kind of tittie is this?" And then it tries to deal with it, but speakers really freak out when you give them squared-off titties, and they start making strange noises, and damage themselves in the process. This is called clipping. Conversely, if your amp can really fill out a D cup, but your speakers are merely a C, a little extra isn't going to kill them. Looks damn good if you ask me.

Here's how I mounted the projector screen. I can pull it out in front of the center LaScala or push it back up against the wall if I'm just listening to music (see picture in first post of this thread). The screen is not too obvious in the room when when it is not in use. This is the mount: Mount Arm I removed the flatscreen mounting hardware and bolted on the screen mounting track.

The B&K amp seemed to be running hotter than usual when it went "DC". It had plenty of ventilation.

So where did I get all those velvet blackout theater curtains? Walmart Theater Curtains

The two ceiling speaker units are on their way to Hope via FedEX. Hoping for a quick return to 7.1 audio. I have a few months warranty left on the B&K 200.7 five year warranty (the amp that failed and toasted the speakers). I'll test their customer support next.

Here's a photo of the seats I selected. They are a very important part of a home theater. These are the most comfortable seats I could find. They are the Fjords model 710 Admiral made in Norway by Hjellegjerde. It was not easy to find seats for a tall person that provide head support and recline while maintaining a proper viewing angle. These seats are available in two sizes so you can get a really comfortable fit. The foot rest is separate so it can always be positioned to fit your size. I have some cushioned stools with backs to bring out if I need a second row of seats. You can also see the positioning of the Klipsch THX Ultra2 ceiling speakers.