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Yes...there are disbelievers....those of you out there don't know what you're missing out on. This is one way of taming that harsh,in your face sound from some models instead of spending thousands of dollars on 2 inch drivers, triamping, & rebuilding your room. Give it a go & you may be pleasantly surprised. []

Hi Bob.....would you like to give it a try?.....threading the Selenium adaptor right to the end & then cutting off the extra length so that the driver exits right at the start of the horn mouth.....I'm happy to pay for the drivers even if you aren't successful & something untoward happens....like I'm assuming it might crack if you aren't real careful. Or perhaps you could give your opinion as to whether you think it's practical to even try this with the materials & thicknesses involved.

What if you found a 1" nut with the correct thread and epoxy glued it to the end of the horn? Does anyone know the thread/pitch of the K55 driver? Greg Yes, thats the go.....If I can find a nut the right size I'll glue that to a round plate or even get it spot welded to the plate for extra strength & then I can screw the whole assembly to the Trachorn in the existing holes.....that will keep the Trachorn unmolested & I can go back to stock or change drivers at any time in the future.Thanks Greg, John[] John

I wonder if you could get a tap and tap it right to the end? It might crack apart instead of cutting the threads. Use a 1" threaded coupling and figure out a way to glue it to the end of the horn with epoxy? Greg Yes, if you tapped it right to the end you could then cut the excess length off & have the horn exiting right at the start of the flare, but you'd have to be very careful cutting the thread....will look into that one.

"I agree with what is being said here, that the longer constricted throat is problematic. I can hear it just by talking into various horns, and certainly by listening to them. I've been playing around lately with various test throat adapters (basically small horns) with various lengths 4" - 7" long, and various angles of expansion, and drilling them out with different size holes, etc... It's been quite a learning experience. I'm doing this so my customers can add this adapter onto the end of the V-Trac horn and use their k55 drivers until they have the money to step up to the larger drivers." Greg, I agree with your theory here...I've been doing some experimenting here with my K55's mounted to an ALK Trachorn. I first removed the bug screen & noticed a considerable improvement in detail, then I removed the rubber washer between the driver & the horn...again a noticeable improvement. On closer inspection I notice that the Selenium Adaptors (APT 25-25) have a length of 25mm in the neck of the adaptor, whilst the threading on the K55 is only 13-14mm, leaving a nominal distance of 11mm of extra length before the sound actually enters the horn flare. I could hear a difference when I removed the washer in this area so I'm wondering what it would sound like with the driver feeding directly into the horn flare. Does anybody know where you can get adaptors for the K55 that are only 12-14mm long in the threaded neck, so that when you screw the driver on ......the exit from the driver feeds direct into the horn flare?

Got Hover, You did hear a genuine improvement! I can't believe everyone hasn't done this. There's a lot more detail, to the extent that I can hear some things now that I never knew were there. I can't believe this was a free upgrade!! []

I'm sure we all have a touch of that....it's incurable isn't it??? Thanks, John

Thanks gaspr, Yes they sound great, but I still have some more tweaking to do. Going to be experimenting with a new baffle board for the tweeter fitted with acoustic foam. Should be interesting.[]

And here's the rear of the mid range cabinet

The bass bin is built as a seperate cabinet....here's a photo during construction....it just sits on top of the bass bin.

Can you get someone to translate your question into English for us so that we can better help you? In the meantime here's a photo of a split cabinet....this just sits straight on top of the bass bin. I believe the factory cabinets have rubber feet that go into recesses in the bass bin as described above.

So does it come out from the front or do you have to remove the cover to remove it? [:^)]

Thanks Herb, My Crites CT125's don't have any bug screens so I figure it can't hurt to have the mids without any screens.....I guess I just have to hear it for myself. []

Has anyone removed the bug screen from their K55? and if so can you give me any tips on the best way to do this. I imagine it would be pretty straight forward, but as always, it's better with the help of experience. Thanks, John

Sorry, didn't open up the PDF file, just looked at the frequency response figures. Thanks for the link to the curves you ran Bob, that shows the range exactly. Amazing how low this little baby goes.[]

These are ALK horns & I couldn't be happier with them. Great product & great service.

Can anyone verify the frequency response of the Klipsch K55 mid range driver? I'm lead to believe that this is an Atlas PD-5VH driver & have attached a link to the Atlas site showing the specs of this driver.http://www.atlassound.com/pn/PD-5VH. As you can see the quoted specs are 110 - 4,100 Hz. Am I missing something here? Or do we all have a huge hole in our midrange using the standard Klipsch crossover point of 6K. [:^)]

I don't like this braces. What about bracing inside of the doghouse? Is there a place for that? No good putting a brace inside the doghouse....what you're trying to tame is the resonance of the side walls....so you can either build them with the braces or alternatively, leave the brace off and build them with thicker side walls.

Sorry....no.[] I think I got this from a post that Marvel put up.

Suggest you also put a brace in like this between the doghouse & the side walls. Instead of putting the brace in the LS2 they have made the side walls from 1 inch material to remove the resonance. I think it would be better to have both & I wish I had made mine that way. Good luck, John

Here you go... LaScala11.pdf LaScala11.pdf

Islander, No, tried a sub & just didn't like the sound of the bottom end, although it certainly went deep enough (Velodyne HGS 12). That was what prompted me to try to find a solution to extending the bass. I find that the bass reflex cab gives me all the bass I could want. From my memory of the sound of KHorns I believe these are the equal, in fact, I prefer these, as they seem to have a punchier mid bass & are more exciting to listen to, whereas, for my taste, the KHorn's are a more relaxed type of sound..

Please don't forget that I had a cabinet maker friend of mine do the actual construction & I did the finishing off. Maybe a few more bottles of red will convince him that I do really need the KHorn cabs!!!

Thought I'd report on some fine tuning that I've recently done to my La Scalas. For background they are LS clones with the bass reflex mod as per my avator with all the usual mods. The other day I swapped out the polyester wadding in the BR cab for some fibreglass insulation & the difference was quite dramatic. The bass is a lot warmer & the kick drum has a lot more weight behind it. The other thing I did was drop the mid back another notch on the crossover (ALK Uni's) & am now running 0 & 2 (previously 1 & 4). This also made a big improvement in the overall balance. I feel like I'm listening to a whole new speaker now. It just shows how important it is to get that balance right & I'm glad I persevered to find the solution to the things I wasn't hearing. Guess I won't have to build that KHorn bass cabinet after all!!

Garyrc, Thanks for the comments & as usual we all have a different opinion on what "punch" is. I'd never really thought of it that way before, so thanks.