sootshe
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Posts posted by sootshe
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Just a dry fit for one of the cabs. All seems to go together OK.
Need to complete the other cab & then dismantle & start veneering.
Will veneer the doghouse, the inside of the bottom panel & the inside of the side panels.
Then fit the backs & the extra layers for the sides & back.
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An elliptrac horn with a B & C DCM50 driver.
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Here are the originals.
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Next I will veneer the dog house as it's much easier to get to before the cabinet is assembled.
The veneer is Silky Oak & will be finished with a clear lacquer.
Going to take a break for a while now.
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Cut the angles for the sides of the dog house & everything was held in place with a few nail gun nails & then glued & screws together.
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Then I made a jig to cut the steep angle on the ramps. If I did this again I would make this a bit differently as with this jig I couldn't cut through the full width of the material & had to do two cuts. Still came out reasonably OK though.
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Next is to transfer all the dimensions to the baffle panel & cut the slot, which I did with a router.
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First up is a full scale drawing of the dog house. From there I will work outwards towards the external sides of the cabinet.
The dimensions were altered to account for the thicker ply material & to keep the internal dimensions of the dog house the same as the original design.
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Starting a new build of a set of Belles.
Material is 24mm baltic birch ply for the doghouse & 18mm baltic birch ply for the rest of the cabinet. The sides & back will have two layers of 18mm ply.
Here is the new table saw which should do the job.
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6 hours ago, KROCK said:
Hi doc, I have the la scala ll with the ES 500 & the 5700. That being said, there is definitely a major improvement in the low end.
I also have the Altec 511 w/902t driver that blows away the 400 horn. Just switched the tweeter to Dave's LMAHL & B&C 120 driver.
I'M DONE!
How do you cross a 902 at 500Hz?
I realise you are using the extreme slope crossovers, but that 902 will not deliver it's best regardless of crossover slope, at 500Hz.
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The stylus should't be hitting the bottom of the groove.
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6 hours ago, Deang said:
@mboxler Sure, he can do it that way, but then there will be questions and more questions and ... right now, he has the schematics and layouts for the original design and is good to go. Also, if he ever decides to change drivers and needs more than -12dB, he won’t be able to do it.
Yes, you are exactly correct Dean.
This is all way above my head, but I can follow the layouts that I have. I built one of these back in 2009 & thought the sound was really very good. I need the certainty that this plan of attack gives me to tackle this myself.
By all means discuss Mikes option, as that's not going to change my plan....I'm settled on this one as I have invested in all the components.
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6 hours ago, mboxler said:
Apologies, @sootshe, but I have a question for @Deang
I modified the Type A/AA illustration with a hybrid approach for the 3636 / 10 ohm shunt resistor.
By placing the resistor on the 3636 side of the capacitor to common, the intended 1 db attenuations of the 3636 can be utilized.
This , too, represents a "Constant Impedance".
Connect tap 0 to common (input '-' and squawker '-').
Connect capacitor (with shunt resistor) to tap 5 (+0 db), tap y (+1db), or tap x (+2db).
Connect tap 1 (-12db) , 2 (-9 db), 3 (-6db), or 4 (-3 db) to "output " squawker '+'.
I know you feel that both "outputs" to the squawker must float, but I don't understand why?
I like the ability to get attenuations in 1 db increments.
Thanks, Mike
No problem Mike....we'll all learn something now.
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8 hours ago, Deang said:
I did like three or versions of that chart. I haven't seen that one in some time.
For the Universal, you will have to reverse polarity for the midrange.
Thanks....will do.
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Thanks for that......I have all the tap values, but thanks for posting them. Just wanted to make sure I can connect it the same way....don't want to damage my new DCM50's.
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Hi all,
Need some help with this. I've decided to stick with the ALK universal design for my Belle build as I have all the required schematics & layout diagrams.
Have all the parts, but obviously the 3619 being no longer available, I have purchased a 3636 to install.
Can I connect it exactly the same as in the attached layout? With the red wire going to either the "x, y or 5" on the 3636? & the green wire staying the same from the "0" on the 3636?
Parts will be Jantzen Superior Z caps for the 40uf - Jantzen Alumen caps for the mid & tweeter sections. Mundorf 11 gauge (2.36mm) vacuum inpregnated air coils for the bass & Solen 14 gauge Litz for the mid & tops.
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Thanks so much Dean.
I used to think there was a right answer but I've given up with that nonsense. There is no right answer. People just like different things and there is no way to predict what a person will prefer. Having tried them all, I've always preferred the Klipsch Type AA, but like Al once told me, "you're just one guy in one room", which is very true.
At your listening levels, either network would work fine. They both sound good, but they do not sound the same.
I know exactly what you mean, as over the years I've listened to systems that others thought were the bees knees & I'm sitting there wondering - "how can they listen to that?". It's all a very personal thing & there is no one right or wrong answer or solution.
My gut tells me that definitely the shallow slope designs are my preference & I suppose I just like the idea of cutting off the mids.
My design has changed slightly in that after being able to contact Dave Harris & using his Elliptrac kit, I'm also getting his timber tweeter horn lens & will mate that to the B & C DE120.
I don't have time for a side business right now. The pandemic has me remotely managing three junior engineers and two dozen projects.
I can totally understand that & it pains me to see the situation in America right now. It makes me realise how lucky we are over here in Australia. Glad to hear that your business is still surviving & to yourself & everyone else.....take care.
Many thanks,
John
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7 hours ago, Deang said:
Right, since a crossover is AC, there is no "ground". The right word is "common". Because of polarity, plus and minus are still important points of reference.
Zero on the 3636 is the same as minus on the barrier strip. You can connect all common connections to the same point.
Do not use Bob's chart to figure attenuation, it won't work with this particular filter.
The original Super AA worked just like the original Universal, in that the common connection for the squawker was NOT connected to the barrier strip (network side). That 'minus' connection is made with the movable jumper.
Here is the attenuation chart for the 3636 using this design.
+ -
0.08638 -21.27 X 4
0.09687 -20.28 Y X
0.10362 -19.69 2 1
0.10880 -19.27 5 Y
0.14519 -16.76 3 2
0.18325 -14.74 Y 4
0.20567 -13.74 5 X
0.20795 -13.64 4 3
0.24881 -12.08 3 1
0.25119 -12.00 1 0
0.29205 -10.69 5 4
0.29433 -10.62 X 3
0.35314 -9.04 4 2
0.35481 -9.00 2 0
0.39120 -8.15 Y 3
0.43952 -7.14 X 2
0.45676 -6.81 4 1
0.50000 -6.02 3 0
0.50000 -6.02 5 3
0.53639 -5.41 Y 2
0.54314 -5.30 X 1
0.64001 -3.88 Y 1
0.64519 -3.81 5 2
0.70795 -3.00 4 0
0.74881 -2.51 5 1
0.79433 -2.00 X 0
0.89120 -1.00 Y 0
Hello Dean,
I sent you an email a while back to see if you could build me one of these. Maybe you don't do that anymore?
I'm after a shallow slope design that is smooth & easy to listen to, so researched a lot of your builds & designs. I rarely listen at more than 90db, usually around 85db, so from what I have read this type of design is the way to go. Do you think I can do better than this design? Are there better improvements from newer designs?
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OK....
so now I'm getting more & more confused.
Let's take a step back.....so the layout I"ve attached here now is correct & we just have to figure out the connections to the 3636??
If someone can draw on the layout where I need to attach & also which of the output taps on the 3636 are + (red) & - (black) to the barrier strip crossover side connection.
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In the last diagram layout I'm confused about "I moved the common bar connection from Mid - to Mid +, so that Tap 0 is always connected to the common bar."
In the layout you show a connection to the Mid+......from Tap 0....so how can Tap 0 be connected to negative?
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I don't think the connection to the autoformer is right.Keep in mind that the autoformer in the attached build is a 3619 & not a 3636.
If you look at the auto former connection values in post #1 you can see that the input has to be: 0 & either x,y or 5......so two connections
& the output is : 0 & either 1,2,3 or 4........so also two connections, that would go back to the mid + & mid - on the connection block.
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Awesome.......I just can't seem to get my head around this.....and the "paint job" is fabulous.
Isn't the 3636 supposed to have two inputs?
The "0" & either "x, y or 5"
I've redrawn your sketch so things don't get too messy & here's a photo of a build from the net. (Don't know if this helps or not)
Cheers, John
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La Scala Clone Mid Horns Question
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
No....it's one of Dave Harris Elliptrac kits.
Starts off life like this & is MDF.
This photo was with the undercoat applied.
Watch out for my new ones in my Belle Build thread.