achapman

Can you provide photos of the actual units please?

Edit: Does this belong in the technical/ restoration sub? If so, can a mod please move it to the correct one? I purchased four of the K-1013 woofers from Klipsch closeout new old stock about 13 years ago and they've just been sitting. I also have two Klipsch k-22-k woofers sitting around unsure what to do with. Would the K-1013 work better than the copy woofers found on eBay from Midwest Speakers, MW-5010-8. I'm considering building a copy of the KLF-20 horizontal for a center. Currently I have KLF-30's for fronts, KLF-C7 center, KLF-20's rear, and KSP-S6 for surround rears. Klipsch K-1013-k parameters; Been searching but unable to find using search engine | "k-1013" AND T/S site:community.klipsch.com Midwest woofer T/S parameters; Specs: Voice Coil Impedance: 8 ohm Rated Frequency Response: 20 - 2k Hz Sensitivity: 91 dB SPL (2.83V, 1 meter) Rated Power: 100 watts Program Power: 200 watts Magnet Weight: 2166 gr (76 oz) Fo: 28 Hz Re: 6.6 ohm Qts: 0.39 Qms: 11 Qes: .4 Vas: 136 liters Xmax: 9 mm No: .8 %

Well I've tried searching via Google, klf-c7 schematic site:forums.klipsch.com but can't seem to find it. Can anyone post it for me? DeanG upgraded the crossovers in my KLF-20's and I just received my KLF-c7 center today. So naturally I want the crossover network to match the mains. Thanks everyone.

Understood. Either my room has bad acoustics or it just isn't enough power. Very bass shy. Thanks!

Is it possible to use the Hafler to drive the LF on the KLF-20's and the reciever to drive the HF? Internal crossovers have been upgraded with Auricap caps.

Easy fix? Ruins the entire sound. I press down on the back of the cabinet, towards the middle upper, it stops the sound. Dynamat or what do you think?

I'd imagine they could be rebuilt. They are "partially" blown, so probably just new coils. Not like its seperated from the basket or antyhing.

I know I can get the K-1036-E to replace my K-1036-K's, but at 130 bucks a peice, surely there is a better alternative? Something has to have similar traits. This was pulled using a woofer tester from the K-1036-E. REVC 5.77 OHMS FMS 35.7462 QES .4062 QTX .3546 Le 1.4056 mh VAS 78.1875 L BL 12.0648 Sensitivity 91.1884 db 1w/1m Any idea's? perhaps something a bit more effeciant too?

What I am meaning is the high freq are coming out of the woofer. It was just a comparison. I've already double and triple checked the wiring. Green to the tweeter Yellow to the Squaker Red to the woofers .

Alright woofers def not blown.Tested all 4. Only current speaker messed up is the tweeter. I was testing with a variety of stuff. Last test was my ps3 hooked up to the onkyo via optic. DSP's in onkyo set to flat and mode set to stereo no sub. I did not use DTS as I wanted the bare sound. I used the video Stomp the Yard due to its hip hop soundtrack. It sounded terrible. Woofers couldn't produce a solid sound and what was coming out of them, seemed like they were bottoming out (even though they weren't). I then tried with the Hafler. I just hooked up the Hafler DH-220 to the Hafler 101 preamp ran off my Dual 1228 turntable. Record was Meet the Beatles in mono. Now while it wasn't as bad as the movie, it still sounded horrible. I am pretty bummed. Do I need to purchase new crossover boards and then replace the parts you put on? Lastly, should I just order the new diaphgrams for the squakers as well and maybe new woofers? I know its a complete rebuild, but if I have to, I have to...

I have tested them with the Hafler and on the onkyo receiever. I am still getting the same problem. Also I found that one of my tweeters is blown (measured 0 ohms) so I will be ordering the titanium diaphgrams from Bob. I have completely resealed the cabinet using the foam gasket tape from parts Express and some silicone around the ports to "lock" them in place. 2nd, the woofers do not seem to be blown as in scratch voice coil when moving the woofer back and forth, however I will test with a battery. The still produce sound, it just seems like they are def running full range. When I unhook the HP side, it still sounds like I at least have the squakers hooked up.

I just got around to reinstalling my crossovers that I had rebuild from Dean. But I can hear a complete full range freq coming from the woofers (HF disconnected). Is this normal? They are producing vocals and everything. And yes everything is hooked up correctly. Oh and they are being driven by a Hafler DH-220. I can't turn them up very loud without the woofers clipping now...

I don't think it would affect the impedance much. Just leave it unhooked and it should be fine.

I just got around to reinstalling my crossovers that I had rebuild from Dean. But I can hear a complete full range freq coming from the woofers (HF disconnected). Is this normal? They are producing vocals and everything. And yes everything is hooked up correctly. Oh and they are being driven by a Hafler DH-220. I can't turn them up very loud without the woofers clipping now...