westom

Condition from which anomaly? There is no magic box that avert all anomalies. Provided was one example used in studios when inferior power supplies inside electronics do not remove line noise. Which anomaly concerns you? Open neutral, RFI, floating ground, hum, high voltage, harmonics, sags, frequency variation, EMI/EMC? Noise from dimmer switches is best eliminated at the source. Chances are those were inferior (discounted) dimmer switches that did not avert noise as required even by FCC standards. Series mode filters (ie Surgex, Brickwall, Zerosurge) that weight tens of pounds may suppress noise that was supposed to be averted inside electronics. No magic box exists. First, the anomaly must be defined. Only then can specification numbers define a solution; define the box or wiring changes for that anomaly. First required: which anomaly is the concern? Because so many are naive (ignore specifications), then numerous power conditioners that do almost nothing are hyped for $hundreds. Hyped as if magic boxes that cure all anomalies. Where is Dr Yeti's magic elixer when we need it? Maybe he is now selling 'balanced power'?

Where is a specification number that says it does what you need? Your system should already provide best protection from noise. If not, then a series mode filter is required. To filter at those frequencies means that filter must weight on the order of tens of pound. That is a series mode filter for audio frequency noise. Many are hyped as if also surge protection. They are not. Each anomaly must be defined. Its cure must be quantified with a specification number. Your concern apparently is dBs of noise at below 10 kilohertz. Other factors may be considered such as harmonics. That does not guarantee all noise problems are eliminated. Only anomalies that you had implied. For example, it says nothing about ground loops - a completely different anomaly requiring completely different solutions. But again, best eliminator of noise is supposed to already exist inside electronics. Belkin knows most will buy ineffective products on subjective words. It probably could be sold for $15 at good profit. But Belkin typically does not target informed consumers - who need numbers for every answer.

900 joules was one's ballpark number to sell expensive (and heavy) series mode filters that do not protect from typically destructive surges. To absorb 900 joules, a protector must be at least 2700 joules - based upon how these are designed. Even an IEEE guide shows a plug-in protector earthing a surge 8000 volts destructively through some nearby TV - well above that ballpark 6000 volts. A separate 900 joules would be incoming to each household appliance. Required is a protector on each clock radio, on dimmer switches, on every GFCI, on an air conditioner, furnace, washing machine, every phone or answering machine, dishwasher, stove, every TV, microwave, refrigerator, sump pump, alarm system, doorbell, LED bulb, and especially on every smoke detector. Furthermore, carefully educate each kid how to connect his Xbox to the TV to not compromise protection. Since an Xbox or other game must only connect to a same protector also used by the TV - not to any other wall receptacle. All that made unnecessary by one 'whole house' solution. Plug-in protectors are pathetic for many reasons - including no earth ground to divert 3000+ amps. Which are often more than 3000 amps and then followed by something that is even more powerful: a 'follow through' current. Critical is that low impedance (ie less than 10 foot) connection to earth. All these compromises exist if one does not properly earth a 'whole house' protector and does not inspect his 'primary' protection layer. Protection means a surge is nowhere inside a building. Then protection already inside each appliances is not overwhelmed. Once inside, a surge will hunt for earth destructively via appliances. Once inside, that is inevitable. No way around that if using plug-in protectors - that can even compromise protection in adjacent appliances. Protection means a destructive transient is not inside. Any facility that makes surges irrelevant (including direct lightning strikes) earths that surge BEFORE it enters a building. That means hundreds of thousands of joules. That means maybe 20,000 amps connects to earth without being anywhere inside a building. 20,000 amps that often only select a few appliances end up conducting well above a 3000 amp ballpark number. And finally, what happens when a less than 2700 joule protector fails? Fires happened in protectors that are behind furniture, on a rug, or under a desk. Not only does it do ineffective protection (without earthing provided by a 'whole house' solution). It also puts a potential fire risk in a worst location. Plug-in protectors are intended for use in conjunction with a 'whole house' protector. Many facilities that cannot have damage only earth that 'whole house' solution to have sufficient protection. That is at least 50,000 amps so that no energy need dissipate destructively inside equipment. Some even ban plug-in protectors since fire is another unacceptable risk. So many reasons why energy best dissipates harmlessly outside a building. Using a solution that costs tens or 100 times less money. BTW, any surge from any household appliance either destroys appliances every hour or daily. Or is only noise. Is made completely irrelevant by what is already inside everything - even inside every dimmer switch, LED bulb, and GFCI. Appliance generated surges are myths invented to promote plug-in protectors - to create fear and increase sales. No one ever provides numbers for these myths. They don't have to. Where are all those hourly destroyed appliances? That myth targets gullible consumers. Furthermore, if appliances generate surges, then one 'whole house' protector also eliminates them. If appliances generate surges, then the protector must be on what generates the surge - not its many victims. More facts they forget to mention in that myth. All that irrelevant for an OP who asked for a power conditioner - not a surge protector. Those are two completely different devices for completely different anomalies.

Post numbers for an Isobar. It is reliable because hearsay says so. How many joules does it absorb? Surges that are hundreds of joules are harmlessly absorbed by protection already inside appliances. Surges that do damage are hundreds of thousands of joules. Where are the always required numbers for an Isobar? Not provided by consumers manipulated by speculation and hearsay. Even an Isobar must be be protected by something completely different that actually does protect from surges such as lightning. OP asked for a power conditioner. This would be for other anomalies including RFI, frequency variation, harmonics, EM/EMI, floating ground, noise, sags, bad power factor, noise, etc. Where are Isobar spec numbers for those anomalies? Also not provided for one reason. No such spec numbers exist. Isobar also does near zero or nothing for that. Why would anyone recommend an Isobar that does not do what the OP asked for and does not protect from typically destructive surges? Because so many only know what they are told; never demand reasons why to believe it - with numbers. Advertising works.

What does ground have to do with noise? Or more specifically, what are you trying to solve? What happens inside electronics. 'Cleanest' or 'dirtiest' incoming power is filtered and converted to DC voltages. Then that is converted to well over 300 volt radio frequency spikes. Now incoming power is far 'dirtier' than anyone on AC mains. Then superior filters, regulators, and galvanic isolation cleans that much 'dirtier' power. So what does that power conditioner do? No matter how 'clean' or 'dirty', your electronics already 'cleans' and regulates what is intentionally made many times 'dirtier'. If it is a wise investment, then a specification number defines that value. Long before seeking a cure, first define the disease. What specifically are you trying to cure? If that is not defined, then snake oil salesmen will sell you anything. Monster has a long history of selling maybe $20 equipment for $180 - because so many feel they need it.

This does indeed help, but there is still a loop, only shorter. A shorter loop may not include a voltage difference between two receptacle ground prongs. Wire is always an electronic component. A safety ground between two receptacles need not be at the same voltage; might contribute to hum. But again, using a common ground is not a repair. It is a process of identifying the entire offending ground loop. Fixing the problem comes later. If noise is introduced by a voltage difference between two receptacle safety grounds, then a problem has been identified. Fix what may also be a potential human safety problem in household wiring. Using a cheater plug to mask what must not exist is a classic example of curing symptoms. In this case to ignore a potentially dangerous defect. Hum was only a symptom of that defect.

Maybe. Hum also may be created by some inconsistency between two components. Does not matter. Problems are best solved by breaking them down into parts. Then solve each separately - one at a time. In this case, it does not yet matter what is causing the hum. First determine a circuit that must exist to have that ground loop and hum. An electrical loop must exist. A cheater plug may break the loop in one part; but does not solve the problem A cheater plug can locate one wire in that loop. Doing same for other connected between components defines other parts of that loop. Once a ground loop is known, then move on to find the defective part. Having defined the loop, one has now enabled the fewer who really know this stuff. Two types of answers exist. Naive will say "it could be this" or "maybe try that ...". Also called speculation The informed need facts to provide assistance. Facts then enables the informed to make recommendations or even help to define the rest of that loop. What typically results is an answer to fix the problem - not cure symptoms. xxJPMxx said, "It is not uncommon to have an induced voltage of perhaps 1V RMS between the earth connections of power outlets that are wired separately back to the electrical panel." He has simply defined another connection in the loop. To 'keep it simple', all components should connect to a common receptacle. It is an example of learning that ground loop. If components are connected to separate receptacles and create a hum. And if no hum when all components are powered from the same receptacle, THEN we have defined one part of a ground loop. It might be that safety ground wire between two receptacles. It might be something else. But that fact then empowers the fewer who really know this stuff.

Simple solution was posted. Nobody said or even implied messing with internal circuitry. Nobody said anything about making it a research project. Both examples of not reading what was posted. Simple explanation went right to the relevant question. What is the loop? Then defined is a part to return for warranty repair. Living "with the single cheater plug permanently" is obviously a worst possible solution. An example of curing symptoms and of arrogance. Problem was explained. A layman knows compromising human safety is not acceptable. Isolated ground circuitry is irrelevant to the problem and not a solution. Upper-level techs would know the concept in these paragrasphs. Why did they not? Or maybe you assumed what they did not say; as you did with a previous post. Your permanent solution was unacceptable and unnecessary.

Which means you completely ignored this description of what a hum is, how to find it, and what 'curing symptoms' is.

Based upon another's description, a HumX apparently connects the HumX safety ground receptacle (hole) to safety ground prong via diodes. $50 dollars for some $0.50 diodes. Diodes that violate human safety requirements. The only item that must connect is wire. Therefore a HumX could not obtain a UL Listing (for human safety). And only cures symptoms of hum; would leave a defect existing and unsolved.

This is a hum in simple terms. A component A can connect to B which connects to C which connects to A via the safety ground. Use a cheater plug. Now that loop is broken - hum stopped. Anyone making conclusions only from observation would assume hum is created by C's safety ground. Or by a defect in C. Clearly not. A fault is in anything in that loop. Cheater plug only broke the loop - did not cure anything. Worse, a defect need not be in C or A as interconnected by the safety ground. A defect could be in B. Appreciate what a 'cheater plug' test reports Cheater plug only identified one part of that ground loop. Equivalent tests must be conducted to find other loop connection. Such as connections from B to C and from A to B. Then it gets complicated. That connection from B to C can be many wires. Each wire inside every cable might not or can be part of that loop. Disconnect one and another wire might still maintain that ground loop connection. IOW many disconnections must be tested to first identify what is in that ground loop. Fixing a defect in that loop comes later. This hopefully demonstrated is why ground loops can be difficult to first locate and later correct.

How'd you know I am bald? I have seen the light.

Again you know because speculation about a lifted ground is sufficient? Something changed apparently when lightning occured. What could have changed is just too many possibilities. The "A connects to B connects to C" example can exist with all grounds intact. A floating ground is only one of many reasons for hum. Yes, we cannot say more because the OP has not returned with necessary facts. Interesting at RFI/EMC/EMI conferences is a large number of bald men. Someone suggested that is due to significant amount of head scratching when trying to solve these most difficult type problems.

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