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they are worth between $200-$250 in great condition with no damaged drivers and they are great speakers. You could easily talk them down a bit since the cone is damaged and should/should be replaced and those drivers are like $63 i think (trying to remember when i last called klipsch). As far as piecing together the system, they should sound OK. By this i mean it will work but the speakers wont timbre match each other perfectly. The RF-3 II will not match your center at all but will still work. I am running an sc-1 center with my RF-5's and i know they aren't perfect because i prefer the sound of my rc-7 or the rc-3. BUT, i will say that if i wasn't a perfectionist knowing what i am looking for, i most likely wouldnt balk at it because it still sounds good. You can always buy the rf-3 II's, test them out and if you like them keep them. If you do't like them, sell them what you bought them for, its an easy flip.

In your room, you could have RF-7's and be OK! I would go with the 62 II's because they are going to pack more of a punch. There is something to be said for the area of the speaker cones themselves and this comes back to physics. Many people say they can't really tell the difference between the 82's and 62's which is a good thing if you want to save some cash. I have always liked the reference 8" driver speakers. They are great stand alone speakers. Personally, i go with the motto "get the biggest speakers you can". I say this because i never, ever, ever want to hear my speakers reach their max output. That for me is the overhead i seek. Your received should do fine pushing them as they are extremely efficient speakers. I went with the RF-7's because i liked the bigger soundstage they produced. However, Like i said above, i like the RF-82 type speaker an would still be perfectly happy with them as my mains. You along with many other ask the question "which series do I go with" and i always ask what is your budget. Speakers last for a long time, especially well designed speakers like klipsch. They will out last your amps and receivers time and time again. Personally, i feel that the rf-42 and rf-52 systems are good for rooms where space is more of a concern or you aren't looking for super thunderous output. They also work well in apartment and condo settings where high fidelity is sought but high output isn't a concern for larger rooms. The 52's will blow away the 42's by the way. If you have a subwoofer, you don't need your main towers to output the lows all that much. I am particular and i prefer to run my mains at full tilt along with a subwoofer. I'm not sure what else to tell you. Everyone hears things different and most people don't have a clue about what they are looking for because they don't have much audio experience to know what they are missing. I have only found what i like because of trial and error and buying things i didn't like. At the days end, a well designed speaker using 8" drivers is what works best for me. I find this to be true and home and car audio.

There are a view things that could be at play. The first thing is that you may have to turn up the tv volume. Sometimes when you switch to a digital out toslink optical signal it defeats the tvs volume control so what i first suggest may not work. The purpose of this is to get a stronger audio signal sent to the amplifier built within the soundbar. You may also have to turn the volume up at the cable box level too as they often have separate volume controls from the tv. The second thing at play could be just that the tv audio signal sucks. By this i mean, typically, when i watch cable tv or even use netflix, i have to turn my volumes up more than DVD's or BluRays. Typically blurays and dvds have a good output signal for audio so you don't need to turn the volume up as much. Hope this helps.

2 X mono blocks http://outlawaudio.com/products/2200.html at $350 each. or receiver http://outlawaudio.com/products/rr2150.html at $699 Outlaw is more geared for home theater with their multitude of multi channel offerings and their idea is for anything less than 5 channels you go and use their mono blocks. Emotiva caters with a lot more products. Both companies are good but after having amps from both companies, I like my outlaw more. The outlaw monoblock is also great because it uses class h/g technology which gives you the benefits of class a/b at lower volumes and then switches voltage rails at higher volumes thus keeping better efficiency. You can also get a 5 channel or 7 channel amp even and bi-amp the 7's which would easily allow you to expand later on for a surround setup if so desired. I would use 10-12 gauge wire but for the most part its because I like thicker wire if I can get it. Check out audiosource amplifier as well. They make a good product. You could also look at Marantz integrated stereo amps as well. Denon and onkyo also make integrated amps. In all honesty though, for a straight 2 channel receiver setup Harman Kardon is such an excellent choice. I have a 10 year old HK receiver and I absolutely love it and its a great price. http://www.harmankardon.com/estore/hk/us/products/HK-3490/HK%203490_HK_US?skuId=HK3490_HK_US&searchMode=regularProductOnly

Well, our appraisal come in on target today so we are on schedule for the closing which is great! With that said, i think the projector will come in time and isnt something that i am most likely going to be able to swing yet for a while. Instead, i am going to take that time to research projectors more. I really am not interested in tide me over subs because i know what i am working off from with the dual 12's i had. My reference is made i just hope these subs have the depth i want which is the chance i take. As far as sub placement, i have a very good idea of what will go where and the subs wouldnt interfere with the projection screen at all. This should be quite interesting!

well, the thing with that idea is that although it isn't bad, it is twice the cost of the amplifier needed thats half the size for just 2 subs. So essentially, i may pay slightly more buying 2 amps, i could pay as I go. I have to think that compared to my ultra sub 12's, these should blow them away and then some and i was quite happy with them as for the most part, their output would happily shake things off the walls.

i do have family back there but im not going to bother anyone for it, its such a ginormous favor for something i am "eh" about. I am torn, do i do 2 or 4 18" subs?

its about 3 hours but i am in AZ and thats where we are buying a house. It was time for me to make a choice and settle down. I could take hopping back and forth but NJ will always be home/

I think part of the "ported is better for HT" debate is that you can more readily achieve lower frequencies with less power/smaller drivers. There are obvious negatives to ported such as port/vent noise and not much response below the ported frequency. Sealed doesn't suffer from either of those, well, not as sharp of a roll off at the low end. With an 18" sealed like the dayton, achieving those lows requires more power and a bigger driver. In the end though it comes down to individual design of the driver itself and the exact specs of the enclosure ported or sealed. In regards to the amp, i don't care about lugging the amp around since i am setting it and forgetting it. My UMC-1 has the EQ ability so i should be able to boost as needed with it if needed. I just want to get a quality amp that will last. I dont worry about weight and what they may have skimped on to achieve that lower weight.

how about this QSC http://qsc.com/products/Power%20Amplifiers/ISA%20Series/ISA_1350/ it actually has weight to it in the 60lb range.

i have been searching for a good outboard amp and i looked at qsc, crown and bheringer and alot of reviews say that they arent too awesome for sub duty and then i found a thread suggesting the dayton 1000 w amp. DUH i say to myself and its very affordable. I was thinking 4 of them, 1 for each sub.

Khactuyen, Ian's suggestion of the Outlaw Audio amp is a solid choice. As a matter of fact, Outlaw amps are mfr'd by ATI and their products share some of the same parts and design topography. I think the ATI AT3000 is close to the same amp as the Outlaw Audio Model 7900. Bill I didn't realize that ATI made Outlaw amps. I just love my ATI amp. neither did I. Thanks Bill!!!

I am a big fan outlaw audio and have been very happy with their model 7125 amplifier (7 x 125w). They make a good solid product and its made in the good ole USA. Emotiva isn't bad either, I just didn't have a good experience with their XPA-5 and ground floor noise. I am very picky when it comes to ground floor noise and just returned 2 car audio amps for having a horrendous noise floor. Maybe I got a bad XPA-5 but Emotiva said it worked fine when I sent it in for repair. None the less, I swapped the XPA-5 out for what my outlaw and haven't had an issues. If you want a powerhouse you could get the Model 7900 with 7 channels at 300 watts per channel at 8 ohms http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/7900.html Or you can take a look at their other products http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/index.html

my thoughts are just as long as your seating area is within the confines of the coffered ceiling, you should be OK. I would try to aim the speakers towards your seating area instead of directly down as if they were ceiling mount speakers, that would work best. I always liked to have a few feet behind my seating area for surrounds so it has the ability to disperse a bit and create a rear stage.

im not going to travel to look at projectors, especially in my price range. I also haven't decided if I will need an acoustically transparent screen, all depends on where the center is place.

with your awkward setup, in-ceiling drivers may be most beneficial to keep them out of sight. You can always do drop down mounts to mount actual speakers but you may have a tough time hiding them. If the couch is to be at an angle as in, facing the tv/fireplace directly then i think in ceilings rears might be best. Since we have the same setup basically sans the rb-75's, it'd be a shame to have to ditch the rs-7's as they are just plain awesome. I'd say try to do a drop down method and maybe do a coffered ceiling.

of what I have researched so far, I think that Epson will work. It is going to be strictly for movie watching. When I get into the house and the dust settles, then I can really decide what the deal will be with subs and then projector. I'll admit though, I am still a projector novice. I know I want something with more light output capabilities even though I suspect most movie usage will be at night versus during the day. Other than that, I don't want to spend much more than I would be for this and I don't need 3D. I just want to ensure its a minimum res of 1080p. I'd love to get a projector with more of a dynamic contrast but that really starts to get spendy.

well, i wont have subs when i move my 7's out here from NJ so i need subs. And this Epson seems to be reasonably priced. I could get 2 less subs which means i could get a cheaper and get the projector too. This is a picture of the actual living room with the current owners stuff in it. You can see the wall where all the equipment will be going. Its a living room/family room so its shared space and i'd have to get a retractable screen. That ceiling fan might be an issue too. As is, I don't think our plasma TV will fit in the recess so I will have to build something to extend the tv out on a wall mount of some sort, probably one with a movable arm. Running wires shouldn't be too bad since its attic above that is unfinished and cellulose blown insulation. and the PEWL!!!!!

The boxes look identical down to the weight haha. I'm only considering a prefabbed box because for me to create braces and do nice cutouts, i just dont have the capabilities for it to come out nice enough for home use haha. Car subwoofer box is a different story though. I'd take a chance on the PE combo and its actually cheaper to buy them combo then order drivers and box separately plus shipping if needed. Im sure the GF will have a shit-fit with 4 of them but thats OK. But im still torn, i want a projector now. http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/jsp/Product.do?sku=V11H373120&BV_UseBVCookie=yes this looks sexy!

The house we are moving into a post-tension concrete slab construction and is a single story home built in 1999. The room the theater stuff is going into has a laminate wood flooring in it so acoustic absorption and what not may come into play at some point. The goal for now is to actually close on the house haha. We ordered the appraisal yesterday and have to wait for it to be completed. I am hoping that it comes spot on because if the house values less, we may have to have another ***** session with the buyers to reduce the price. Their agent is an idiot so it hinders the whole process. I was planning on 4 of this 18" daytons. The sub is rated down to 19hz FS and the testing done via that one site depicts it having some lower end capabilities, which i hope it actually does. The testing they perform looks legitimate but i'll admit that i feel like i am look at ancient Egyptian here and there.

Nix the parts express box. Have a look at THIS . Double baffle front, CNC'd with bracing. I built one of theit tapped horn kits and the fit was perfect. the PE box looks the same???

Im feeling more and more like a DIY project and then using some, if any saved funds for a projector setup! maybe, not sure but that dayton 18" looks like a fun contender and i can get a pre-designed and cut box from parts-express, i just have to the finish the boxes over.

in my audio travels, i've never come across any reviews for BIC and just assumed they were basically a white van brand and they have always looked like a cheap klipsch knock-off. I ve never heard good or bad things about them let alone actually heard one. My opinion is based solely on image that i feel they portray, nothing more, nothing less.

I thought BIC was junk?

Ive been looking at projectors lately and well, wouldnt a 1080p projector be better idea since almost all content coming out is in 1080p? Sorry to hijack!