ZombieWoof

thanks for the reply , think I'm gonna go with woofs mounted inside / horns outside i like the seal material that is on bob's woofs being the reason ,it's some stout seals . away story on the oiling & how it went ,looked for tung oil couldn't Find REAL tung oil ... pissed .. soo I figurered Teac Oil would work got a quart did over 7 coats of the stuff setup over nite & ended up with a thick bumpy finsh that a few hair stuck in it .. was not surprised as the plan was to steel wool it . the stain is minwax red chestnut & that's also a sealer .. soo when the teac oil went on it looked great ..but in the morning bumps/hairs all expected after 7 coats 3 wipes with minerail sprits to soften the Teak oil up .. then a 000 steel wood pad soaked in same ran that over every surface one speaker @ a time,soaked agin more pads , then pads that were dry ran with the grain ,went thru awhole bundle of steel wool last =>pass cool even every where,flat as heck .it even filled the pores of the oak in the grain.... smooth as a baby butt . No Way polyU would do that.................. (I know the whole living room is Oak just like this & all PolyU 3 coats and u still can fell the pores with the polyU& i wet sanded between each coat ) this worked just as i wanted now i just gotta wait till all the thinner dries off & out the wood in the cabs & then it's lemon oil to bring up the sheen flat blacked the 2 decorator Cornwalls motorboards also today mounting horns as things dry out ...

makes the woof a compression driver right ?

if u'r gonna sell them anyway no leave them alone BUT if u'r on the fence do the new cross overs as for hurting the value you will not as anyone who knows anything know caps degrade & a hersey that old with new crossovers would be worth more than an untouched hersey for the above reason Cornies do have a way of spoiling one huh ? Mike

fyrpwr did you use a seal between yer woofs & the cabinet mounting them on the front ? & if soo what ?

the cross is a cs500/4500

Nah i hate that look of decorators ! Grills 3" x 1" oak picture frames with brass plates on the corners ,brass CornScala plate DFC top (with a short line giving credit to Bob Crites)with a custom color fabric sliver/grey with a thin blue pin stripe Frame will be actually 2" thick as i need an off set for the frabic & am using 1" x 2" glued to the 3" that leaves me mucho room for the panel under the fabric that's why I went with the brass screws on the sides & tops soo to even out the brass look thanx Mike

up on their feet getting oiled

if u do the 55 gallon thing be sure & take some photo,it's a THAT I'd like to see moment !

Bob would be the one to ask , i had a simular thing with my 76 & 77 Cornwalls after figuring out the shippping back & forth , the labor. then the diaphame cost for another $100 i could get the a new set of the atlas drivers for the CornScala's I was making the Old Cornies into SOO I sold the old drivers as is to another member here & everyone was happy Mike

a long piece of angle steel will stiffen the motorboard & Not add to the cab inside volume place between woof & mid horn horizonal and NOT have the ends touch the sides of cabinet bolt on well

Robi are u flush mounting the tweet horns & squaker horns ?

would there be a noticeable difference for the better when flush mounting the tweet horns & squaker horns on a Cornscala build ?

offer them up in the Garage Sale section & ask that question there ! more eyes hit that section

Yah could just rewrap them in 1/4" MDF & then veneer... less hassle ! AND U get more stiffness which is a GooD Thing what the heck use 3/4" MDF and WaLa a Khorn tank ! you could call them your K-Tankhorn's

padding on sides / top / on top of the port / back wall NO padding in the port area Mike

gonna add a small brace edging to the inside around the midhorn hole as I want to use the barbed nuts on the inside of the cab & I want to back fill any gaps with silicone between the horns & the motor board using cork gasket material on the flush mount & filling in the gaps between horn ,motorboard & bracing with silicone soo it all ends up as a solid seall all the way from horn to bracing on the inside the bolts that hold the horn will run from frount to inside onto the barbed nuts gonna let it setup with screws till the silicone curesto everything then drill & install barbed nuts & bolts

horn in hole

here's the holes

talked with bob about tweeter horn & mid horn placement and agreed that flush mounting the tweet of his was best .. I agree as the sound don't have to come tru a tunnel to get out & I figured what the hey I'll do the same for the mid horn as well the cutting of the larger sized hole for the mid was not pretty as I couldn't seem to get a correct template made so I winged it with a repo saw & with a flush mount of the horn it will all be hidden any way . the tweet horn hole had to be sanded down on the edges to the contrures of the bob horn & was a B*tch on the 1st one but very easy by the 4th small drum sanderon a drill worked great !

here's the pix of the stock padding of a Cornwall 1977 vintage

damn i sold mine here ! $20.00 a pair

Yes that's correct ! & I am using the same Bob Crites parts as you are

just talked to Bob about this issue he said use the damping only where it was oringally in the cabinate if U want I can do a photo before i rip mine out as need to remove it soo I can caulk the seams & i'm going with the WalMart fiber fill that Cigarbum used & only where the paper was at ...... as my puppy got inside one of the cab's & ripped parts of the paper out or i'd put the paper back in here's a link to my build http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/129786.aspx will be posting pix later today

i think they stopped stamping the serial numbers into the wood on the back in 83also the letters stamped into the wood on the back top left or right are not the wood and finish codes but rather the first letter of the person who built them and his or her helpers according to Andy my Cornies have a stamp USA on one side & the RB on the other on the set from from '76

also the S/N #'s are stamped into the wood right on the top edge center of each speaker & on the side near the top is stamped the wood & finsh code those look to be made in 1984 by the code is the Cabinet made outta plywood OR MDF (partical board) ? all this helps with ID'ing them see these links http://community.klipsch.com/forums/p/13385/100764.aspx#100764 http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/103886.aspx