Arash

there might be a hump in the frequency response due to wrong driver choice which will make the whole sound bloat. try to measure the frequency response you may notice something need to be notched or EQed there is another possibility that the room adds some gain to a certain frequency range you probably can decrease it by placing the speaker in different location hopefully far from corners or rear walls

thanks for the tip if I can find a website that can ship the horns (K402) to UAE- Dubai it would be great. I don't need K69 or the mounting tray. I just need the horns. I'll use BMS 4592 Coax or TAD 4001 I wish those who have K402-based speakers could put some videos on Youtube. I'm eager to see some K402 playing

you mean 600USD/pair?! who? where?

I have to buy a pair of K402 for me before I die

nice speaker they are not so big in comparison to early horns like GE and RCA horns

any idea about HF140 and HF146? HF140 seems to have a hump at ~15khz which may add some exaggerated sparkle to the top end and will probably make the listener feel it sounds better than HF146. has anyone any experience about it?

go for a 1st or 2nd order crossover. calculate how many db attenuation hf needs and wind an auto-transformer. try to measure the response to see if you need to notch something use the Excel spreadsheet I attached to calculate automatically Autotransformer calculator.zip

interesting:

I do prefer HF144 and HF146 over HF140. you know Titanium compression driver sound like they have more jump factor (wow factor or whatever you call it) but will make me wanting to turn the music off and leave but the non-Titanium drivers (like DE250) are easier to ear thanks for the idea. I wish you could come up with a picture I like to see your speaker

I'm still eager to hear your opinions about HF144 and HF146 with Ketone polymer diaphragm I wish there was a 2" elliptical horn so I could use HF200 while I know it's actually 1.4" driver with a 2" exit. is there any other horn except Elliptrac? I can build something similar to Elliptrac I've done it before but the cost...

thanks Okan for the idea actually I've worked with many horns from Seos12, Seos18, QSC, H290, JMLC, Stereolab tractrix,... most of which have high cf. I think elliptical LTH142 or 18sound XT1464 are better choice many folk are missing here. good horizontal to vertical dispersion angle. lower cf. at 700SD/each that couldn't be an option in this project. Faitalpro driver are really top-notch imo

thanks for the tips. I think Econowave is a great speaker for a little money I have QSC horn in my personal treasure I bought from PE but that's not an option as I can't buy them for dealer price. all these effort is because we have access to European brands for dealer's price

Hi, for sure. actually we are running the only speaker manufacturing group in Iran. our main activity is to build loudspeakers for various of applications. for cinemas, theaters, religious places sound enforcement, sport clubs, wedding ceremonies, you name it. we also build horn speakers as a hobby. actually we do make money from our main activity. we don't need to build hi-fi speakers and sell for money unless some guy with a big pocket comes to us and asks to build him something probably no one else in Iran is not qualified. so we do it. but intention for this project is not money. you know people here usually spend ~2-3k on speakers like Focal, Elac, Dynaudio, etc... the total cost of parts of 15"/1.4" speaker I listed above considering BB plywood from Finland would be something around 2K normally. a pair 15PR400 : $518 a pair HF140 : $620 a pair LTH142 : $120 crossover parts : $200 BB plywood cabinet, CNC machined : ~$400 screws, damping, painting, binding post, wiring,... : $100 total: ~1950USD not mentioning the time I'm putting in cutting and building the cabinet and measurement this speaker should cots something around 2K for a guy in Iran. needless to say if one wants to buy all part from US it would cost him at least twice. I intent to let a pair of this speaker (assembled and tested) go for 1K it still costs half of a Focal 826 here so that's why I think everyone can afford it. the other model with 12" woofer will be around 500 bucks or even less. I have DNA-360 here but I think elliptical horns are superior to Seos12. I can build a two way horn speaker for less than 500USD but I just don't want to build something that will keep the owner busy for a long time. Arash,

thanks Bruce for the input actually I've read about Econowave AFAIK it uses a DSP and active Xover and is bi-amped. I've worked with Econowave horn (Dayton replica) it's a nice-sounding horn. I like Seos12 a little bit more. I think elliptical tractrix horns are overall better and could be used some hundred hz lower.

another issue itching mind mind is that non-Ti CDs sound smoother to my ear so I tend more toward polymers diaphragms. HF140 (Titanium) response: HF 144 (Ketone polymer): HF 146 (Ketone polymer): the low end of all three drivers look like the same. HF144 seems more linear. HF140 have a little bit better top end but there is also a deep/hump around 15Khz. I don't see a point why wouldn't I use HF144 over HF140. any idea?

Hello everybody, I'm submitting this thread hoping to hear your idea about what we're gonna do. long story short I've been asked for affordable good-sounding speakers for countless of times here in Iran so I thought maybe I can donate something to music lovers here. I was originally born in a family of low income and I know what it's like to live in a freaking third world country with a average salary of 200USD/month and looking enviously to commercial speakers that cost an arm an a leg I thought I can use our equipments and connections to build something that is worth the money. the plan is built to speakers both two ways. one with 12" woofer and 1" CD and horn and the other with 15" woofer and 1.4" CD and horn. I can buy CW1526C and CW1228 from Bob but buying things from US will make the cost double or triple! instead I'm gonna use Faitalpro stuff. I really like them. I've worked with all these driver particularly and I know many of you are using other combinations I may not have been heard yet so please lemme know what you think 1 Faitalpro 12PR300 12" woofer + Selenium D220ti + Faital Pro LTH102 Elliptical Tractrix Horn it's pretty the same of Bob's CS-1T but the woofer differs. 12PR300 will go down to 50hz -3d ported. 2 Faitalpro 15PR400 15" woofer + Faitalpro HF140 + Faitalpro LTH142 Elliptical Tractrix horn or 18sound XT1464 15PR400 is a low fs and low mms driver capable of delivering real articulated bass. I really like this woofer. it seems Alura speaker uses this woofer. could be used down to f3 38hz in a ~190l ported cabinet. this speaker sure reminisces Bob's Style D Cornscala. I like XT1464 more than LTH142. I also would like to place the horn on top of bassbin not into it. something like this: any idea is much appreciated

nice! I hope you have full version of Dirac Live. it's an expensive tool I use myself. if not you can still use IK Multimedia ARC2 room correction software it uses MultEQ XT32 algorithms. the correction filter cold be run on Foobar2000 player VST runner plugin or directly from JRiver plugin center. I don't know if it's available in the US but i found downloadable version on the internet it just works perfect with ECM8000 calibrated mic (not working with USB mics)

BR Box? bass reflex

Faital Pro 15PR400 in a BR box with a B&C DE250 behind a Seos12 or H290 horn. everything form PE I think will be under 600USD I'm checking with my wholesale account. just my $0.02

I would vote for K402 for better dispersion and lower cf. K402 could be crossed before many folded horns woofer would get nasty. I intent to use BMS 4592-Coax on K402 crossed @ ~300hz and put it on top of Jamboree. only if I can buy a pair of K402s...

does anybody know a vendor or dealer of Klipsch in US that can ship a pair of K69/K402 for me to Turkey or UAE?

we have Clio fw-11, Clio Pocket and another measurement system with ECM8000 and UMM6 working with ARTA and REW. I don't know if the Clio could be used for time-alignment. another issue that has dominated my mind now days is how to find the acoustic center of a driver? I know the acoustic centre of a driver is not where the coil ends or is glued to the diaphragm. I'm looking for an effective way to determine the precise sound fountain. I have no idea how this is possible using the equipments we got here

I totally agree about time-alignment. mis-aligned drivers will ruin the music intervals and the result will be a bunch chaotic frequencies not getting along together. but that's what happens in most speakers. I've tested countless of times the tweeter alignment in Klipsch speaker (LS,Khorns) I can detect the right tweeter in a blind test immediately. Anahita speakers (also Vittoras) and many many other commercial and non-commercial speakers out there also suffer from mis-alignment of components. could you explain a bit how you use impulse response to find correct timing? I think I can manage to build a angle-adjustable top hat for the Jamboree. Jamboree is much much easier to build than Anahita or Khorns you name it. CNC come handy here. the bottom and top plates chould be engraved as all other side walls and internal parts could be easily stick in the exact position. that will probably make the most precise Jamboree geometrically

I think non-titanium drivers are easier to ear. at least to my ear polymer diaphragms sound smoother and more relaxed. for example I have B&C DE250 (Polyimide) and DE500 (Titanium). both measure pretty the same with flat response. DE500 has a little bit better top end and it's almost twice the price of DE250. I prefer the sound of DE250 over DE500. DE250: DE500:

it's not all about the frequency response. in music we don't play sweeps! a driver should be fast enough to be able to pronounce different frequencies without hesitation in intervals to get to equilibrium position. this is where the weight of moving mass of diaphragm is important and that's one of the reasons TADs with Beryllium diaphragms sound superb. I would give them a long listening and decide which one will sound better to my ear