4tay

Heritage speakers in good condition will *never* depreciate by 35%....

Disregard

When I run sub/sat I let the satellite run it's full range and cross over the sub at a point where they will blend. For the heresy's a crossover point would be between 40-60hz, depending on the slope of the subs cutoff. Of course the other school of thought is to cut the sats off completely below 80hz and let the sub do the work down there. 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other I suppose. Just make sure you get a REAL sub that isn't just a home theater boom box designed to thump between 40 and 80hz, with little in the 1st octave.

Oooh.... I forgot about those! Good call!

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There he was again trying to be the life of the party after one too many. "I'm gonna open thish schpeaker up and see what makesh all that noise..."

Aww c'mon...gimme more credit than that....I planned it that way... [8-|]

Season 1 of HBO's "Tales from the crypt" episode where the executioner becomes unemployed... a scene in his apartment shows what appears to be a pushpull EL-34 tube amp.

I'd use a speaker that has a similar tweeter diaphragm material. In this case: phenolic. Do you have space for a KG3 or 3.2?

I have a nice Denon with the audyssey system, and it's top notch. I like running my speakers (mains) large, and not artifically limiting them. The sub blends perfectly crossed at 30hz.

$500 for pristine HII's just doesn't happen within a 300 mile radius of me. I just saw some in "very good" condition for $775. While the floor mount works, stands are fine. I know it sounds like heresy blasphemy, but I usually mate them up with a good sub.

Already found some. Just overhauled xovers with sonicaps/cardas solder. I am awaiting titanium tweeter diaphragms from Mr. Crites.

Geeze, if I had the cash, I'd help you clear the table off of a couple of those Carver amps...just so that they don't bother anyone..

I started using the 2% silver when I worked on 3 phase motor controllers, not because of the high current/heat, but mostly for theclean connection. There are times I use plain 60/40, but I really like the 2% silver as well.I have been using the same roll of solder for what seemes like forever. Bruce Between this place and Bob Crites, I have completed my 12-step program to purge myself from the logical poisoning of audiophile mythology. I am fully converted to real-world practical application and measurements. That is... not going to extremes with caps, components solder or other "magic bullets" that make no sense on paper. Mention using plain 60/40 or 63/37 on some audio forums and watch the fireworks begin... "What???? You mean it's not 99/100ths pure melted silver blessed by a Tibetan Monk and cryogenically treated on cable elevators??? Did you at least place a phosphorescent drink coaster heated to 102.7 degrees on top of the speakers to focus the imaging?"

Maybe it's guys posting their buying intentions and posting their sales prices here, combined with novices that are using Google to pick up on the buying trends (you know: "supply and demand"). It also seems to be a bit more correlated to where you live. Khorns, Belles, La Scalas and CWs are expensive to ship out-of-area, so where you live is at least as important. I'd bet that used Heritage speakers may a a bit cheaper in economically depressed areas, hence the comments about "road trips". Chris I am sick of that kind of thing...road trips. I intend to move in the near future near an area that isn't audio-challenged.

What a deal!!! But right now, $15K would go into home improvements, not speakers... I have to agree on the population density. In more rural areas (hi-fi hell) you either get parts, beat up speakers or overpriced stuff. Before I went too berserk, I'd BUILD a set of cornscalas before I'd pay overinflated prices.

Disregarded []

I seem to remember finding the (non rare) Cornwalls for $800- $1,100. I have seen more than a few ads recently for $1,500-$1,600. La Scalas for $750 (black) seem to be $900-$1100 now. Forte's seem to have hiked from $350-$475 to as much as $800. Heresey's in good condition seemed to have hiked as well. Is it the economy, a bunch of one-off greedy ads, or have the heritage leaped in value this year?

Yes, I know these are budget speakers meant for budget surround. BUT.... I built a 12" dayton titanic III sub with 500w plate amp some time ago and wanted to put it to use. Stock, the speakers do have stridency in the treble, not what I would call smooth by any means. This is a bedroom system btw. Holly Cole should not be quite this "glary". The only way I'd consider these speakers "Done" by Klipsch rules, is that they meet specs for the price point. No way do they have caps that will bring out the potential. The stock crossover has a 24uf/100v Np electrolytic, and a 6 uf 100v electrolytic NP. Replacements: Two 6uF Sonicaps and Two 24uF NP caps. The sonicaps will be the most crucial since they are the link to the tweeter where the NP just blocks for the woofer. I figured for $2.00 I might as well install a better NP than the factory used. I have some cardas stranded OFC I may slap in there.It's one of those "While I'm in there. I might as well..." And oh yeah, I removed the asinine Bristol head screws that hold in the binding post/xover plate and installed standard Phillips. If the tweeter diaphragm or drive can be upgraded reasonably, I am open to suggestions- especially if anyone has modded these before.

I shall do that. BTW: I remember when Church street in Burlington (and areas about) used to sell Klipsch. Plattsburgh (Frank at the sound room) had them as well, for a bit less.

The charts I found by JBL (1983), refer to professional models , not for in home use. They indicate changes in polar response, beamwidth (matching tweeter to woofer) and directivity. Imaging is stated to improve as a result. The don't mention the effect on quasi-anechoic (or any other) FR measurements. They do say there are fewer colorations/reduced beaming with the lens. I ran out of time to research particulars tonight, but logically, frequencies are blocked/diverted and therefore may sound warmer by omission of information, not simply omitting distortion. I guess I am trying to say: if it sounds good...use it!

Ok...they look like a concept that has been used for decades. My reservation is that any solid surface will diffract/deflect/bounce/block higher frequencies. Looks like it causes a directivity/venetian blind effect. Not sure why the sound would be "warmer" unless some high end is blocked-which also begs the question about "accurate". I was demonstrated some klipsch heresy's with new paper in oil (PIO) caps and they sounded rolled off...but the owner insisted "warmer." I recall some manufacturers using small horizontal grills over tweeters for something similar. (Celestion used to). I think the bottom line is, I'd like to see audio spectrum analysis of the speaker with and without the lenses.

The melt temp of my solder ranges from 380-425. Wouldn't going to 700 be overkill/possibly damage xover parts from heat transfer? I take precautions and use heat sinks, but I got good flow with Cardas quad eutectic at 400.

Could you post a photo of the lens? Thanks.

I wish I could remember if it was an issue of Audio or stereo review (whichever magazine back in the day). They featured mods for the KLF speakers. IIRC, one of the issue they had was that the horn was narrow and square, and tended to resonate, unlike the wide throat horns on the heritage line. They applied some manner of damping (automotive putty?) on the side of the horn. (Outside surface/inside the cabinet).