JohnA
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Posts posted by JohnA
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Dr Bill,
You should hear my brother whine about the Forums! That wasn't harsh.
I think your point is valid to a "point". The walls and floor do not continue expanding at an exponential rate (or at conical rates that approximates an exponential rate like the K-horn bass unit does) and so may not provide the needed loading to get below 40 Hz or so. Mr. Paul's design for false corners were only 4 feet from the apex of the corner to the outer edge. By saying this was enough, he implied that only the first 4 feet or so was effective.
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A longer, bigger bass horn will go lower, ala The Patrician. A bigger driver may not be needed since the horn itself controls lower frequencies more than the driver. The longer passages in the larger horn may limit the upper frequencies.
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Also check ebay for Yamaha CR-X00 or CR-X20 series receivers. I'd say a CR-400 would be perfect and was very good quality stuff.
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The easiest to retrieve:
"A serious response.
I tested the "break in" theory with a new pair of Pyramid 15 inch drivers. Tests were done with a Lineax X LMS system, which is pretty much a standard.
I tested them out of the box and after 12 hours being driven fairly hard. There was no measureable difference in the TS parameters. One fellow quipped that this just shows they weren't broken in enough. But I'm pretty confident of the results.
One thing which I've never seen proposed is that if you break a speaker in one way or another, there will be good or bad results in the long run."
William F. Gil McDermott, 11/3/99
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Ear, Malcolm,
Please provide provide test data to support your contention. I allowed the suspension of woofers could soften with movement like a pair of shoes until confronted with test data before and after a period of operation. I don't anymore.
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*If* you have a properly designed power supply, anything that goes on before the PS cannot affect you component or its sound. If you don't have a good PS, a power cable cannot make any difference. Ask the power cable seller/manufacturer how it does what they claim it does. Listen for B.S., it'll be there.
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Since speakers don't break in and there's no logic behind the break in hypothesis, the break in CDs you asked about cannot be effective.
You often need to "break in" your ears by learning to accept the sound of your new speakers. For that I recommend any CD that you enjoy.
Or Not, it's your money. Believe and spend as you see fit.
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The only odd thing is the "single" written in longhand. It was clearly special ordered, but most Heritage Klipsch were.
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1983.
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Though devolving, this thread has not quite fallen apart. It HAS become quite humorous at times.
It seems the overwhelming choice this time has become Indy. Now, who's going to write the letters?
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I'd suggest a modification to your plan. My brother, sisters, out-laws and parents have gone to the beach and rented condos for a week or so. It was a big hit, our experience much like Gil's. The evenings when everybody is settling down to eat and end the day would have been more enjoyable with a respectable audio system.
My suggestion: build your condos/flats and in a few (20%?) install a moderate to good quality audio system that is nearly bullet-proof (receiver, CD player, Heresies). Supply a few different brands of speakers, for choice. Charge extra. Allow/encourage visitors to bring their own media and TTs if desired. In a very few, install HT systems or in one large auditorium install the HT system and show movies on high occupancy nights. You might not be able to charge admission without paying royalties. I like the live band idea.
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The designation K-1000/6/5000 is odd and I've never seen that except maybe on ebay recently. It did NOT come from a Klipschorn. The Klipschorn's crossover points have been 500 and 5000 or 400 and 6000 until this year when they became 400 and 4500. The 1957 K-horn crossover should have been a K-Ortho K-500/5000. I'll bet the one you have came from a Shorthorn or Rebel.
The impedance of all of the drivers were most likely 16 ohms for the crossover to carry a 16 ohm label.
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Have a look at VMPS Subs, particularly the Larger Subwoofer. Two of them in 2 corners with the high power drivers keep pace with my 4 La Scalas easily on about 450 watts/channel. They are $699 each assembled and $579 as a kit unassembled. An Acurus A250, A200, Rotel 555, Parasound HCA-3500 or similar amp will drive each sub very well.
http://www.ctaz.com/~moonlite/subvmp.html
or
http://www.vmpsaudio.com/sub1.htm
You should be able to stay under your $ limit with these. As long as I didn't expect the system to hit 114 dB at 2 meters, one Larger Subwoofer was enough.
BTW, a good sub is good for both music and HT. If one is not good for music or if another is not good for HT, neither is a good sub. The VMPS Larger Subwoofer will not disappoint you, unless you think the subs at Circuit City sound "good".
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Half of new is a fair price. I believe a euro and a $US are similar in value, so $US3500, would likely be a new price for 2003 models over here. Find out what crosover they have. At 5 years old, they should Type AL-3s from the factory, with K-55-M squawkers (black magnet cover) and K-77-M tweeters (rectangular magnet).
The impedance curve of a Heresy is more radical than a K-horn. It goes up to about 70 ohms in the midrange.
La Scalas require so little power that your power amp will not be stressed, even though it will have to drive a 6 ohm bass system that dips to 4.5 ohms. By the time you are challenging the thermal or current limits of the amp, your ears will be hurting a lot!
John
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TTT
I believe Mr. Paul was pleased and honored to meet us. I certainly was to meet him. We will miss you in Indy!
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"Snort! Paw."
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Happy Thanksgiving to you, Tony! May you have no more earthquakes for a while, too!
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Well THAT'S pretty cool. You need to hook up with the moderators and see if the bbs has a chat function that can be activated for the night. I vote for December 20-something. We'll all be home on Holiday. I wonder how many times I've read that article.
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I have heard some and owned a little of the stuff on the list. I'm stunned at some of what made the list, too; A Crown DC300A?! and an Ampzilla?!?! Get out!
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clu/les,
LOL! You're price-less!
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This is about it. Buy the most expensive one of these you can stand. At your price range you cannot buy branded components.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00005R19V/ref%3De%5Fbr%5Fslwth%5F3/104-9620905-5815145
http://www.kmart.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=821347&cp=784867.784873
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It sounds like over enthusiasm, rather than ignorance. Because I was part of the Klipsch Fans Tour of Hope, I sometimes hear things that others don't. The new Heritage drivers are practically identical copies of previous drivers. It is just an odd quirk that the mods that made them smoother, may have made them less efficient, but by a barely audible bit. Being into crossover design as much as my Civil Engineering mind can comprehend made me ask about the crossover. That's the only way I knew. I'll bet few outside of this BBS know either.
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Maybe one day I can learn French. It would help reading about Le Tour.
It sounds like you may want to build a set of La Scala cabinets yourself. Beware of the German plans, they have some wrong dimensions.
We all have our prefered combinations. Mine is K-33-E, K-55-V (AlNiCo) on K-400, and K-77-M used with a Type AA crossover. This was the typical configuration from about 1965 or so to 1981 (at least for the K-55-V). The K-77-M was standard from sometime in the late 70s to 2000.
Q-man prefers K-33-E, K-55-M (ferrite "Mud") and K-77-M with a Type AL-3 crossover. This was the configuration for 1982 to 2000 with a change to the K-401 around 1990(?).
The 2002 configuration is K-33-E, K-55-X (modern K-55-V) on K-401, and K-77-F (modern K-77-M). The K-55-X and K-77-F have about 1.5 dB less output than the older versions and require a different crossover. Klipsch is the only source for the newest drivers and I doubt that Klipsch will sell them since they are all needed for current production.
Look at this ebay search for the parts you want.
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Don't do it!
The newest crossover is redesigned to accomodate the new drivers that have about 1.5 dB less outout. Your La Scalas will become too bright if you go to the Type AL-4.
what are these?
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
Looks like a Jubilee bass bin to me with a K-horn top. I didn't know it was 10 years old, though.