Jump to content

JohnA

Heritage Members
  • Posts

    5915
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by JohnA

  1. I like the SS-1s; I say buy them and be happy.

    Having matching speakers in your system helps create the illusion that you are seated in the middle of the action. It is not precisely required. I get very good performance from 4 La Scalas and a KLF-C7 for a center. With most people, money doesn't grow on trees and they must buy theor gear in stages. If you like the KG 3.5, keep them and add the SS-1s. If, later on, you find the KGs don't mesh well with the rest, replace them with SF-1s, but try it first. There's no reason the throw away good speakers.

    BTW, Don't forget a sub. I tried to get by without them for a while, but HT demands at least one. There is lots of bass energy you will miss without a specialized speaker just for it.

  2. The only difference between a Type AA and a Type A is the tweeter circuit. Specifically the Type A has only one capacitor and no KLiP protection.

    There sbould be NO DIFFERENCE in the bass and mids switching between the AA and A. The forgoing statement is void if the Type A is built with superior components like the one pictured above that Guy built. The Solen inductor alone should be a great improvement to the bass. My Type AAs were noticably improved by the Hovland caps in the tweeter circuit.

  3. LSBB is La Scala Birch Black. The r means 1977 and the first 9 and 10, is some sort of notation for the time of year. The last digits are the production sequence number. There is no worry about non-consecutive serial numbers; they are both alike. Perhaps in 1982, the year of the squawker change to K-55-M, non-consecutive numbers may indicate a mismatch. It would be obvious, though.

    The t means 1979.

  4. Pland,

    Don't modify anything until you have listened to them for about 6 months.

    I'm asuming from the year that those have a Type AK crossover. It should be nearly identical to the Type AL I've had and dislike. If you want to stay with Klipsch, parts, call and order the Type AK-3. It's the latest for your driver set and is said to sound VERY good. If you want to roll your own, or want to try the ALK crossovers, search the forum archives. Don't use a Type A (or derivations of it) with a high powered amp; say over 40 watts. I like the Type AA, especially if the caps are changed to Hovland Musicaps. I have a pair of ALKs for my La Scalas and they are superb, sound well integrated and clear. They will be a great match for your K-horns.

    Another hot mod is to damp the squawker and tweeter horns. You can use rope caulk from Home Depot for both, or use Dynamat on the squawker horn as I did. The consensus here is that either works as well as the other.

    I stuffed the top of my La Scalas with polyester fiberfil. It reduces the hollow knock it has and perhaps some cabinet resonances.

    For a K-horn, you need to ensure the cabinet fits tight into the corner and seals and that the walls are plenty stiff. A stiff corner may be a multi-day winter project, but the seal to the walls is easliy accomplished with some weather stripping on the tailboard. Make sure your baseboards and shoe molding doesn't hold the cabinet away from the wall.

    Work to make your electronics as good as the speaker. It is notorious for showing all flaws on the system.

  5. circumspect (s�r�kem-sp�kt�) adjective

    Heedful of circumstances and potential consequences; prudent.

    - circumspectly adverb

    The American Heritage� Dictionary of the English Language, Third Edition copyright � 1992 by Houghton Mifflin Company. Electronic version licensed from InfoSoft International, Inc. All rights reserved.

  6. I had IEsux completely removed from this machine until I installed Turbo Tax. Then, I just gave up. I don't use it, I use Mozilla, do I still need the patch? I don't trust MS and their patches.

    I don't have XP either, precisely because we have it at work and it is awful! We still get blue screens as often as with 95/98. Mine crashed 3 times in the first 2 hours I had it! It had been a rock steady PC under 98SE.

  7. Rudy,

    50 watts into a pair of Belles results in 124 dB, if you're 1 meter from both of them! Loudness increases 3 dB for each doubling of power and 10 dB for 10 times the power. 100 watts is +20 dB. 105 dB is LOUD!!! I listen to my La Scalas at 80 to 85 dB most of the time, or at 1/100th of a watt. Belles are rated the same as La Scalas or 104 dB at 1 watt at 1 meter. 30 to 70 watts into Belles would be a comfortable listening level in a football stadium!

    John

  8. Look at the graph of the power vs distortion curve on the Marantz. Your Belles will be operating entirely in the vertical portion of the curve along the left axis. The distortion is quite high there. A 250 watt amp will probably be even worse. It would be a complete waste with Belles. I'd look for a 30 to 50 watt Class A power amp like the Monarchy(?).

    John

  9. Dale,

    I work in Fossil Engineering for all 11 of our coal-fired and 5 combustion turbine sites. I have even been to Operator School to "run" the simulator of one the 200 MWe units. The school puts on a class every so often for engineers. A few years ago, they started sending all of us to the real Operator school, because Management feared a strike. It was cool. I only got half way through before the conflict was settled. I have a HUGE fascination for machines, from small ones like handguns and clocks to 1300 MWe turbines and 3500 psi boiler feed pumps. It's so bad, I took a tour of a coal-fired plant in Australia while I was there on holiday. I shouldn't have told that when I got home.

    Besides learning all I can about the plant, my job is civil engineering for the yard operations at the sites.

  10. It's hard to imagine dirty AC power causing hum. It can easily cause pops and clicks and if your gear's power supply is poor, I can see increased distortion since thee will be an AC ripple on the, supposedly DC only PS busses to the amps.

    Several years ago I was standing in my house looking out and saw a flash in the woods. Never thought twice about it. A few days or weeks later, weird things started happening to the lights and appliances in the house (flickering, dim/bright cycling, hard starts). I started checking my house voltage. Things on one side of the breaker box had higher voltage than the other. The reason turned out to be a broken neutral back at the distribution pole (the flash). A broken neutral (ground) or a corroded connection for the Neutral/ground could easily cause a hum in one house and not another. The break could be in the house or at the pole.

    I can't remember anymore if I had hum in my audio gear.

    (I can't resist Ray :) ) I work for the country's largest electric power producer.

×
×
  • Create New...