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Posts posted by JohnA

  1. You are correct on the way the ACT-3 works and your subwoofer placement. I assume you are using the crossovers in the subs to divide the signal between the subs and mains. Per Dolby Spec, the LFE channel has no extra information, so you are not losing anything in DD 5.1 mode. However, I believe the LFE channel in dts is a seperate track and you may be losing it with no sub. With the Bass Management Upgrade to the ACT-3, you can drive the subs from the LFE outputs and accomplish the same thing you have now, plus get control of the sub level from the remote and be assured of getting the LFE from dts.

  2. You need to listen to the horns unmodified for a while before you jump off into the pit of tweaks. I'd say 6 months.

    That said, you should be looking for K-55-V squawker drivers with solder terminals; they have more and smoother output from 4k to 6k Hz. Next would be flush mounting the tweeters with Klipsch "Z" brackets from the late 90s K-horns and Belles. Besides the brackets you'll have to enlarge the tweeter opening in the upper cabinet. After that I'd be looking at damping the squawker and tweeter horns. I cannot hear any difference due to damping the tweeter, but some can. Finally, you might try replacing the tweeter caps and woofer inductor with premium parts like Solen or Hovland. I replaced the 13 uF squawker cap in my Type AAs with Hovland Musicaps and couldn't hear any difference for my $120. I like the ALK crossovers I have. They're made with all the best stuff and designed for a nearly flat impedance curve. The ALK xover changes the voicing somewhat, but the results are surprising clarity. In my opinion, they're worth every dime.


  3. I once had a pair of Marantz speakers that had an oiled walnut finish. Once a year I would oil them up about twice with lemon oil (which was labeled petroleum distillates!) from Formby's, I think. My sister has them and they still look great, and work! They must be 25 years old by now. I'm sure this just throws oil on the fire, but I believe that's all a good finish needs. I may have only been giving them a mild cleaning, but I liked the results. I also NEVER put Endust or any other similar product on them. Dust with a dry cloth only.


  4. Dean,

    For $1200 you could buy a pair of cornwalls and mod them quite a bit. If I was going to build something, I wouldn't duplicate a Cornwall. The squawker horn would be too hard to find and you should be able to get more/better output from a different woofer, made for bass reflex, and a smaller box. I don't know the specifics of the drivers mentioned, but Tom is leading you down a path that is going in the right direction. A Radian 850 looks like a good candidate for an 800 Hz crossover point in a 2-way system.



  5. The woofers' voice coils can be burned out by overpowering them, especially with equalization and big amps. Heresies will sound like they don't have enough bass if they are not placed properly, inviting a bass boost. Those woofers can be reconed fairly cheaply. Call 1-800-KLIPSCH. Their 15" brother the K-33-E is about $100 new or $75 for a recone at Klipsch. Surely your K-22s will not be more. Layne Audio in Nashville has had an after market woofer for Heresies. You could try one of those. I don't think I'd believe his claims for increased performance, there is only so much you can do with that size box. Last time I looked there was at least one pair of K-22s for sale on ebay, too.

    The Heresy will just get down to 50 Hz. I'd say the bass roll-off starts around 70 Hz and then only if you have then against a wall. I suggest putting them against the wall and ceiling in your bar, woofer up. Then, use gentle bass boost (no more than 5 dB) if the sound is not well balanced in your room. Make sure your amp is big enough to handle the boost without clipping; 5 dB is 3.6 times as much power as no boost. If you want to rock the house, get a pro subwoofer and eliminate the EQ on the Heresies.

    An easy, safe way to test drivers is to *rub* the leads on the terminals of a 1.5 volt battery. Don't use a 9V. Finally, the crossover points for a Heresy are 700 and 6000 Hz.


  6. So far, I've replace all of the caps with Hovland Musicaps and disconnected the tweeter diodes. I have a pair of 12 ga. inductors for the woofers, but have not installed them. I didn't like the change with the tweeter inductor screw removed. I was given a graph that showed removing it exaggerated the 6k hump in the tweeters response. I heard more brightness and didn't like it.


  7. Yes! I replaced the caps in my Type AAs and really enjoy the results. The tweeter cap change was quite noticible, but changing the squawker cap was inaudible to me. Upgrading the parts quality will improve the speaker's clarity while maintaining to original "voicing". I would NOT do this to a Type AL, as it is too complex and has inherent problems. Convert your AL to an AA or an AL-3 using high grade parts.


  8. If new cables brought out a hum, you have a ground loop caused by the cables or poorly shielded cables, regardless of price. Cables cannot be too sensitive, just poorly designed.

    Replace cables one at a time until you eliminate the hum.

    Cable burn-in is B.S.! Which electrons are bad electrons? What physical change can 2 volts max. (and virtually no current) make? What it you accidently moved the cable? Is the sound now shot for 2 more weeks? No real engineer would tell you such things.


  9. You need to check the continuity of the woofer's voice coil. You can use a volt meter to check resistance. It should be about 3.2 ohms. Alternately, you can remove the leads to the woofer from the ctossover and rub the connectors across the ends of a 1.5 volt battery. if you get noise, the woofers are O.K. and the crossover is bad. If not the woofer is bad, or the wiring to it is. The woofer can be reconed at Klipsch for about $75 each.


  10. The Type AL is a second order crossover from woofer to squawker at a nominal 400 Hz with what looks like some EQ built into the woofer section. The squawker bandpass section has a second order roll-off at about 6000 Hz. The squawker circuit includes a resistor intended to prevent ringing, but it is insufficient. The tweeter is initially a 3rd order high-pass but has additional elements that, after a small shelf steepen the response to, I'm guessing, about 30 dB/octave (5th order). The Type AL also includes the pair of zener diodes.

    I have schematics available.

    The voicing of the 2 networks are similar, but detectably different. The Type AL sounds thicker and caused low brass (French Horns, etc.) to blend into a cacophony of howls. At high levels, the Type ALs tend to screech. The Type AA has some of the screech, mostly traceable to the diodes, chopping off the highs to save the tweeter. I am no fan of the AL.

    I have a hotrodded pair of Type AAs, a pair of ALKs, and a stock pair of AAs. I vacillate between the hotrodded AAs and ALKs as the best. The ALKs measured quite flat in an anechoic chamber, but do not quite have the voicing I fell for 25 years ago. All 3 have the Type ALs beat in the clarity and natural sound arena.


  11. DSI77,

    May I suggest a Parasound preamp and power amp. Here are web links:



    The pieces are small and should be high quality. I use Parasound power amps with my La Scalas and like the pairing (pas de deux?). I hope they are available in France.

    A McIntosh MA-6100/6200 would be a good choice, too. Pictures here:


    Or a Mac Receiver: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1391678925

    Have a look at this Creek: http://www.audioadvisor.com/store/productdetail.asp?sku=CR5350SE&product_name=%22Special%20Edition%22%2085-Watt%205350SE%20Integrated%20Amp%20with%20Remote

    Don't forget to look at NAD. They should be readily available in Europe. Many of their products are recommended.

    I, too, am a fan of Diana Krall. I'm afraid she is too popular, now, to come to my small city.


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