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Posts posted by JohnA

  1. Since you're increasing the impedance of the speakers by 33%, you decreasing the amp's outpot by 33%, or down to 97.5 watts. What speakers will you be using? It Klipsch, you COULD operate on 1/10th of that power. I'd suggest looking at a 50 to 60 watt Yamaha, Sony, or the like.


  2. You may have to chase the wires to the woofer to confirm what may be out of phase. Check everything carefully. Each of the drivers have a red spot on the + terminal. The Type AA is a fairly simple network with no phasing tricks. + from the input terminals is plus through to each driver, even though the squawker runs through the autoformer.

    Here is a copy of the schematic.



    This message has been edited by John Albright on 08-19-2002 at 09:47 PM

  3. Even the mods to "improve" tube amps fall into the category of a hobby. Most people wouldn't want to pay a professional electronics tech the $$ he'd want to do it for them. The same thing would apply to SS gear. Still, many of the same things can be done to SS amps. Parasound unofficially told me I could "sweeten" the sound of my 1203A and 1000A by biasing it deeper into Class A (raising the power level where it transitions into Class AB). Different signal caps, bigger PS caps, bigger heat sinks (fan?), could all improve a SS amp's performance.

    You really need to know what you're doing before modifying an amp.


  4. Hey Ray,

    have you seen the Avantgarde trios? Those are "an interesting architectural statement". I'd love to hear a pair.


    I believe BobG once stated that Klipsch had measured some difference in sub drivers after some use. I believe woofers might have a "new shoe" syndrome and "break-in" with some use, since they move relatively slowly. Gil's testing would seem to put the lie to that theory, though.


  5. You're correct. It's generally not worth the bother to swap to the solder terminal K-55-Vs. I can't hear the difference in mine. Others can. How high the -V can go depends on the horn and how forgiving you are; the response is falling after about 3k. I'm sure you noticed. The horn can trade dispersion at high frequencies to get on-axis gain at those frequencies. Klipsch' K-400 does that.


  6. Speakers don't break-im, your ears do! You slowly get used to the new sound. The insulation of the wires does NOT charge. The signals are AC and change from positive to negative several time a second; any "charging" that might have been done is instantly undone! Tha capicitors do not need "forming". This is urban ledgend (I checked the search engines). If an AlO layer was required for a capacitor to work, and the layer "disolved", at any place, the capacitor would instantly short and fail. The liquid Ray described is, in fact, the dielectric. The popular foil and paper in oil capacitors, whether the aluminum motor-start caps Klipsch used to use or the mythic Jensen Copper foil types, use oil-soaked paper as the dielectric and the oil further serves as a cooling media. These caps certainly do not use AlO for their dielectric, yet are still said, in legend, to need "forming".



  7. Well, If I had anywhere to put them and any way to get them here, I'd have already bid. I hate the thought of shipping them common carrier and a Road trip from Tennessee to NH doesn't sound so good either.


  8. Concrete floors and walls will be best. There won't be any resonance in the floor or walls. Concrete walls will prevent sound from "leaking" and disturbing neighbors, too. Of course, you'll have to fover any wall system with something to control high frequency reflections.


  9. You can use the Belles and La Scalas together, but you'll likely need another amp. The K-33 is a 4 ohm driver. Putting it in a basshorn raises the effective impedance to between 6 and 8 ohms. However, below the cut-off frequency of the bass horn, it is effectively 4 ohms again, Two in parallel presents a 2 ohm load to a single amp from 60 Hz, or so and below.


  10. In my own experience, Woofers are blown by overpower and tweeters are blown by clipping.

    Ray, Your K-33s can be rebuilt by Klipsch for about $75 each. Since they are bad, take them out and test them again to be sure. If they are still bad, but the cone out of one and see if the glue holding the voice coul onto the former softened and let the coils of wire slip out of place (or melt in two).


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