JohnA
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Posts posted by JohnA
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Speakers don't break-im, your ears do! You slowly get used to the new sound. The insulation of the wires does NOT charge. The signals are AC and change from positive to negative several time a second; any "charging" that might have been done is instantly undone! Tha capicitors do not need "forming". This is urban ledgend (I checked the search engines). If an AlO layer was required for a capacitor to work, and the layer "disolved", at any place, the capacitor would instantly short and fail. The liquid Ray described is, in fact, the dielectric. The popular foil and paper in oil capacitors, whether the aluminum motor-start caps Klipsch used to use or the mythic Jensen Copper foil types, use oil-soaked paper as the dielectric and the oil further serves as a cooling media. These caps certainly do not use AlO for their dielectric, yet are still said, in legend, to need "forming".
Bullsh**!!
John
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Well, If I had anywhere to put them and any way to get them here, I'd have already bid. I hate the thought of shipping them common carrier and a Road trip from Tennessee to NH doesn't sound so good either.
John
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Thanks!
O.K.
I've seen the TV model in pictures, but thought they still had the rear slot. What might they be worth?
John
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1372111382
Are these normal Shorthorns? They are not what I expected. Where's the rear slot?
John
This message has been edited by John Albright on 08-08-2002 at 09:44 PM
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Doug, LOL!
It ain't legal to write it, but it's said all 'the time!
John
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I think you need to go tell your story to a Dr. You might have bruised a kidney or the like. Fainting is pretty serious. What do your parents say?
John
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A fast acting fuse will be fine for a temporary cure. A fast acting fuse blows the second its current rating is reached. A slow acting fuse can tolerate rated curent for a few seconds to get you past a musical peak before it blows.
John
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Concrete floors and walls will be best. There won't be any resonance in the floor or walls. Concrete walls will prevent sound from "leaking" and disturbing neighbors, too. Of course, you'll have to fover any wall system with something to control high frequency reflections.
John
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The magnet doesn't affect the power absorption rating. Yours are small because they are very powerful, but also expensive, so you don't see them often. AlNiCo magnets are also small amd expensive.
John
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The crossover point of of the woofer moves one octave from where it's supposed to be; down I believe.
John
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You can use the Belles and La Scalas together, but you'll likely need another amp. The K-33 is a 4 ohm driver. Putting it in a basshorn raises the effective impedance to between 6 and 8 ohms. However, below the cut-off frequency of the bass horn, it is effectively 4 ohms again, Two in parallel presents a 2 ohm load to a single amp from 60 Hz, or so and below.
John
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ROTRLMAO!
John
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In my own experience, Woofers are blown by overpower and tweeters are blown by clipping.
Ray, Your K-33s can be rebuilt by Klipsch for about $75 each. Since they are bad, take them out and test them again to be sure. If they are still bad, but the cone out of one and see if the glue holding the voice coul onto the former softened and let the coils of wire slip out of place (or melt in two).
John
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Yes.
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Lightly brown buns are the best kind! LOL!
Burr-Brown? Their DACs are said to be the best.
John
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The bottom plate of a "normal" La Scala is the woofer access panel. Remove 12 screws and gently pry off. The gasket sticks, go easy.
John
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Surely obtained from Audio Systems, once around the corner from the Exit/In. That was a great audio store.
John
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You need to pull off the front plate and see what's inside. They are Pro versions and I bet thay have a split xover like the K-horn. I want to see it.
John
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There's a good dozen causes for buzz. You need to tell us how they're connected now and if a particular component causes the buzz. Start by having the speakers on and connected to only the receiver by the speaker wires. Have nothing connected to the receiver. Does it buzz? If so, disconnect the speaker wires from the speaker and check for buzz. If you have it, you have a speaker defect. If not it is in the receiver. If you have no buzz at the first configuration, plug in one thing at a time (turned on) until you find the cause. It could be a ground loop. Those are often tough to eliminate.
John
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You have a variation in the crossovers that I have never seen before. The 1RB is completely new to me. Have you drawn the circuit to see if they are at all similar? I once had Klipsch custom make me a "new" Type AA network, but the parts yours are made from are surely no longer available. Having one custom made to match is probably out. I've seen K-500-5000s on ebay.
John
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You should get a pair of Klipsch AL-3s or modify the Type ALK to include the tweeter protection from the AL-3.
John
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I have just such an experiment in the works. I have a pair of 511Bs and am looking for a pair of 802 or 806 drivers for not too much cash. I really need to get the La Scala bass horn tested to see how high it goes. There's a guy at work that has the gear, I just haven't gotten over there to do it. Based on what I can find out, the 802 on a 511B will be 108 dB @ 1 Watt, a Type AA network, slightly modified should work great. I think the 80X/511B combo will be weak above 10,000 Hz and a tweeter may still be required (the response starts down at 10k and is 15 or 20 dB down at 20k, the chart's at work).
John
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For about $400 I bought an A-T OC9 MC and I'm very happy with it. It's the first A-T cartridge I've liked.
John
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Try raising the crossover point to 60 Hz. I'll bet you'll find the results much smoother. I run my subs at 70 Hz.
John
simple question about tweeters...
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
It sounds like you're describing a phase plug. It reduces cancellation and smoothes frequency response.
John