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JohnA

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Posts posted by JohnA

  1. In my own experience, Woofers are blown by overpower and tweeters are blown by clipping.

    Ray, Your K-33s can be rebuilt by Klipsch for about $75 each. Since they are bad, take them out and test them again to be sure. If they are still bad, but the cone out of one and see if the glue holding the voice coul onto the former softened and let the coils of wire slip out of place (or melt in two).

    John

  2. There's a good dozen causes for buzz. You need to tell us how they're connected now and if a particular component causes the buzz. Start by having the speakers on and connected to only the receiver by the speaker wires. Have nothing connected to the receiver. Does it buzz? If so, disconnect the speaker wires from the speaker and check for buzz. If you have it, you have a speaker defect. If not it is in the receiver. If you have no buzz at the first configuration, plug in one thing at a time (turned on) until you find the cause. It could be a ground loop. Those are often tough to eliminate.

    John

  3. You have a variation in the crossovers that I have never seen before. The 1RB is completely new to me. Have you drawn the circuit to see if they are at all similar? I once had Klipsch custom make me a "new" Type AA network, but the parts yours are made from are surely no longer available. Having one custom made to match is probably out. I've seen K-500-5000s on ebay.

    John

  4. I have just such an experiment in the works. I have a pair of 511Bs and am looking for a pair of 802 or 806 drivers for not too much cash. I really need to get the La Scala bass horn tested to see how high it goes. There's a guy at work that has the gear, I just haven't gotten over there to do it. Based on what I can find out, the 802 on a 511B will be 108 dB @ 1 Watt, a Type AA network, slightly modified should work great. I think the 80X/511B combo will be weak above 10,000 Hz and a tweeter may still be required (the response starts down at 10k and is 15 or 20 dB down at 20k, the chart's at work).

    John

  5. I know, I know.....

    My mother-in-law loves Big Band. She seems to specially like it on my Klipsch. I would love to pick up a Shorthorn and a NAD L40 and somehow rig it to play in mono in her house. Big Band was so ofetn played in mono and the Shorthorn has the look of the era. Sadly, she has no available corners, so It'll have to be an early Heresy (H-700). She is widowed and hasn't the room, nor patience to put up with big speakers and complexity. Loud is not in the equation.

    The trick is to get an electronics package that is stone simple and can handle mono operation. Tube powered would be cool and fits the period. What is out there that I can use to build this system? I could still pick-up the L40 and an H-700, if it is switchable to mono.

    What say ye?

    John

  6. There are better amps out there than the Sampsons. Specifically, I look for a Parasound HCA-3500A (350w x 2 at 8 500 x 2 @ 4 from 20 to 20k) and an Acurus A-250 (250 x 2 @ 8, 350 @ 4, 440 x 2 @ 4 ohms @ 1k Hz) plus marbe an Adcom 555. These will sound better and meet theis ratings from 20 to 20k, not just at 1k Hz. I use an A-250 to power 2 4 ohm VMPS Larger subs. It can kick.

    John

  7. Tony,

    Since you are where you are, I'd remove the woofer, unsolder the braided leads to the cone, drill out the rivet the held on the masonite, and replace it with something similar from an electronics house. Reattach it with a pop-rivet. I don't think this is a job for glue or silicone, too weak.

    You are in a big enough city that you might find a speaker repair shop, too. They should be able to fix it, since all cone drivers use just about the same thing.

    Your damage it too small to justify $110 + shipping and duties.

    John

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