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Posts posted by JohnA

  1. My front channels are run by an HCA-1203A. Last night I swapped it back in, replacing the AV-8s. I like it better. The AV-8s have a haze to the sound. At first, I was thrilled with them, but as I listened, I heard things the shouldn't be there. I believe they are having trouble with my La Scalas' impedance curve (4.5 ohms at 55 Hz and 42 ohms at 2200 Hz). There is only one impedance tap and it's 8 ohms. Not knowing any better, I might have bad tubes. One amp is more distorted than the other and that leads me to question the tubes. As I learn more about tube amps, I may modify them. Initially, I wanted a kit anyway.

    I really wanted them to have "magic", but my conclusion is my 1203A sounds cleaner and sweeter.


  2. As of right now, DVD audio does not come out of a DVD-A player as digital, so an optical input on your preamp cannot be used for DVD-A.

    If you connect the DVD-A outputs of a player directly to a power amp you will have no volume control and the system will only operate at maximum volume; not good.

    To hear DVD-A you MUST have analog inputs on a preamp (or preamp section of a receiver). You may choose to use stereo analog inputs for DVD-A in stereo a I have. If you want to hear DVD-A in 5.1 mode, you MUST have a preamp with 6 analog inputs (and 6 analog outputs to go to the power amp) or a receiver with 6 analog inputs.


  3. I got a pair of the Wave Av-8s in last night and plugged them into the system. They do sound good; no hum or hiss. There are subtle differences in the emphasis of certain sounds over my Parasound amp. Are they better? I don't know. They are enjoyable and MAY be less fatigueing, or maybe not. All of the differences are subtle and would not be noticed in casual listening. I think the mystique of tubes is more thrilling than the actual sound.

    But, I do like them and would recommend anyone buy a set. I may end up with 5 in the end, depending on how well they perform playing AC/DC. They did yeoman's work playing Loreena McKennitt last night.

    The schematic above labeled WaveDT matches the schematic supplied with my amps (I did not check the component values, but the diagram matches as do the voltages). My version is faint, so I may not be able to scan it for upload.


    This message has been edited by John Albright on 03-08-2002 at 05:07 PM

  4. Ratings aside, I don't believe ANY amp is so linear that it would double its power at clipping when the impedance is halved. There are plenty of amps that are *rated* at 250/500/1000, but they will typivally clip at something along the lines of 350/520/1000. My old B&K M-200 was a good example.


  5. You can parallel a resistor with the Quintets and the amp will indeed put out more power into the now 4 ohm load. However, only half of the power (77.5 watts) will go to the speaker and the other half will go to the resistor and be wasted as heat. Sound quality will not likely change. As you can see, you'll send more power to a speaker by using it without a resistor.

    I don't see how a Quintet can absorb 90 watts for long without damage. Be careful.


  6. Duval,

    There are 2 possible fixes for your ringing. The K-77-M's voice coils might be damaged and might be rubbing. That is fixed by replacing the diaphragms. A repair shop can test that with a signal generator using pure tones (you'll hear the rubbung as a ring). The other fix might be to damp the horns with a soft, non-hardening putty placed on the back side of the horn. We call that "rope caulk" in the U.S. and it is used to seal the glass in windows to the wooden frame.

    Which speaker and netwoek do you have? The Type AA has a pair of diodes in parallal to the tweeter that cause nasty sounds when more than about 2 watts is sent to the tweeters. They protect the tweeters, but chop off the top of the signal and the result is harsh. Klipsch has used better tweeter protection in newer networks.

    AlNiCo K-77s are rare indeed, now. The only place I've seen them for sale is on ebay.com.


  7. Ebay is about the only place I've seen heresy components for sale. Last night there was a sungle K-700 horn and K-55-V for sale. The guy didn't know what they came from and the price was right.

    Pay clost attention to driver efficiency. The woofer are not nearly as efficient as the horns.


  8. Neither Cornwall nor KLF-30 has "Subs". A sub, or properly, a subwoofer is a seperate, specialized speaker that handles very low frequencies, say below 60 Hz. The Cornwall and KLF-30 have "woofers". In both cases the woofers cover the range from about 30 Hz to about 700 Hz.

    The KLF-30s have 2 woofers for increased efficiency in a smaller cabinet than the Cornwall. The Cornwall has a 15" woofer in a large cabinet to achieve essentially the same efficiency, 99 dB/watt/meter.


  9. Optical outputs will be good IF the optical transducers in the CD player and preamp are good. Digital RCA outputs often sound better than digital optical because of the conversion from electrical signals to light and back.


  10. Now Ray,..... Wink.gif

    I write a bid spec every so often. Everything cannot be precisely specified and still put it on one sheet of paper. IOW, anybody wanting to scam the public can.

    There does seem to be a standard for pro gear power handling. That or something like it could easily be adopted by the home audio industry. It would probably preclude most power absorption ratings above 100 watts.

  11. The Marketing section always wants to show a big number to impress the ignorant.

    The best ratings for a speaker would be Long Term Continuous Power (max power the speaker could absorb for 1 hour without damage) and instantaneous peak power (max power a speaker could absorb for a brief interval like 10 milliseconds without damage). Most driver OEMs spec their drivers that way. For instance, those ratings for the K-77-M seem to be 2 watts continuous and 10 watts instantaneous.


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