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Posts posted by JohnA

  1. I got a pair of the Wave Av-8s in last night and plugged them into the system. They do sound good; no hum or hiss. There are subtle differences in the emphasis of certain sounds over my Parasound amp. Are they better? I don't know. They are enjoyable and MAY be less fatigueing, or maybe not. All of the differences are subtle and would not be noticed in casual listening. I think the mystique of tubes is more thrilling than the actual sound.

    But, I do like them and would recommend anyone buy a set. I may end up with 5 in the end, depending on how well they perform playing AC/DC. They did yeoman's work playing Loreena McKennitt last night.

    The schematic above labeled WaveDT matches the schematic supplied with my amps (I did not check the component values, but the diagram matches as do the voltages). My version is faint, so I may not be able to scan it for upload.


    This message has been edited by John Albright on 03-08-2002 at 05:07 PM

  2. Ratings aside, I don't believe ANY amp is so linear that it would double its power at clipping when the impedance is halved. There are plenty of amps that are *rated* at 250/500/1000, but they will typivally clip at something along the lines of 350/520/1000. My old B&K M-200 was a good example.


  3. You can parallel a resistor with the Quintets and the amp will indeed put out more power into the now 4 ohm load. However, only half of the power (77.5 watts) will go to the speaker and the other half will go to the resistor and be wasted as heat. Sound quality will not likely change. As you can see, you'll send more power to a speaker by using it without a resistor.

    I don't see how a Quintet can absorb 90 watts for long without damage. Be careful.


  4. Duval,

    There are 2 possible fixes for your ringing. The K-77-M's voice coils might be damaged and might be rubbing. That is fixed by replacing the diaphragms. A repair shop can test that with a signal generator using pure tones (you'll hear the rubbung as a ring). The other fix might be to damp the horns with a soft, non-hardening putty placed on the back side of the horn. We call that "rope caulk" in the U.S. and it is used to seal the glass in windows to the wooden frame.

    Which speaker and netwoek do you have? The Type AA has a pair of diodes in parallal to the tweeter that cause nasty sounds when more than about 2 watts is sent to the tweeters. They protect the tweeters, but chop off the top of the signal and the result is harsh. Klipsch has used better tweeter protection in newer networks.

    AlNiCo K-77s are rare indeed, now. The only place I've seen them for sale is on ebay.com.


  5. Ebay is about the only place I've seen heresy components for sale. Last night there was a sungle K-700 horn and K-55-V for sale. The guy didn't know what they came from and the price was right.

    Pay clost attention to driver efficiency. The woofer are not nearly as efficient as the horns.


  6. Neither Cornwall nor KLF-30 has "Subs". A sub, or properly, a subwoofer is a seperate, specialized speaker that handles very low frequencies, say below 60 Hz. The Cornwall and KLF-30 have "woofers". In both cases the woofers cover the range from about 30 Hz to about 700 Hz.

    The KLF-30s have 2 woofers for increased efficiency in a smaller cabinet than the Cornwall. The Cornwall has a 15" woofer in a large cabinet to achieve essentially the same efficiency, 99 dB/watt/meter.


  7. Optical outputs will be good IF the optical transducers in the CD player and preamp are good. Digital RCA outputs often sound better than digital optical because of the conversion from electrical signals to light and back.


  8. Now Ray,..... Wink.gif

    I write a bid spec every so often. Everything cannot be precisely specified and still put it on one sheet of paper. IOW, anybody wanting to scam the public can.

    There does seem to be a standard for pro gear power handling. That or something like it could easily be adopted by the home audio industry. It would probably preclude most power absorption ratings above 100 watts.

  9. The Marketing section always wants to show a big number to impress the ignorant.

    The best ratings for a speaker would be Long Term Continuous Power (max power the speaker could absorb for 1 hour without damage) and instantaneous peak power (max power a speaker could absorb for a brief interval like 10 milliseconds without damage). Most driver OEMs spec their drivers that way. For instance, those ratings for the K-77-M seem to be 2 watts continuous and 10 watts instantaneous.


  10. The K-77-M, Al's crossovers and damping your metal horns are about all of the "upgrades" that you might need. Beyond those, changing the squawker horn and driver is considered radical surgery, but possible.

    The K-77-M is a newer T-35A with a rectangular ceramic magnet and smoother, more extended highs (above 12,000 Hz). It can truely be considered an upgrade. I almost forgot! Klipsch has produced "Z" brackets to flush mount the tweeter with the front of the cabinet. They're cheap and not too hard to install.

    Which woofer do you have? There is a possibility the newest K-33-E might be an improvement, but you'll have to contact Klipsch to confirm that. E-mail Trey Cannon at trey.cannon@klipsch.com.


    This message has been edited by John Albright on 02-25-2002 at 09:39 PM

  11. Mdeneen,

    Great! What good is a triode and a pentode in one tube? Why would I want such a thing? Do you think it's configured so it could be run in either pentode or triode mode? Doesn't pentode give more power? Each amp has 2 PCL82s. How would you use 2 of them; push-pull? Is push-pull traditionally Class B, or AB?


  12. If you have the "other" dimensions, you can't help but build the correct back chamber volume in a La Scala. The "compression chamber" volume is the volume of the cone pluss the thickness of the gasket; can't change that. The opening from the compression chamber to the throat of the horn is 3' x 13" in my La Scalas. I believe they're all that size.


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