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JohnA

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Posts posted by JohnA

  1. Actually, Y'all have it backward. The power amps should be turned on last (and off first) to keep turn-on (and turn-off) thumps from the pre-amp from damaging your speakers. In the 70s and 80s the gear demanded it. My ACT-3 is well behaved and doesn't need to be treated that way. This does not apply the receivers and integrated amps because the speaker protection circuits wait until the thumps are gone before connecting the speakers.

    The preamp section of my old Yamaha CA-800 integrated was terrible. When using 125 watt power amps and my La Scalas, the windows would rattle.

    John

  2. Putting the second one 3' out of the corner will not hurt. Having the subs in different placed tends to cancel room nodes and WILL prevent both of them from reinforcing the nodes your room already has. With 2 subs in different places you will have fewer peaks and troughs in the bass response. I have mine behind the mains and in the corners. However one corner is 90 deg. and the other one is 100 deg.

    John

  3. Crutchfield has the highest prices going. Sometimes they are above MSRP. I will buy car audio from them, especially if it is on sale, because their techs are knowledgeable and that carry a great set of harness adapters so you don't have to cut up your factory wiring harness.

    I don't care if they carry Klipsch because it'll be priced too high.

    John

  4. Your dealer is yanking your chain. Klipsch will surely rebuild your tweeter for less than $200, probably less than $100. Technology has not changed so much that KG4s cannot be the bassis for a great HT system, if you want them to be.

    John

  5. Klipsch can recone the drivers for about $75. I don't know if Orange County speaker Repair can do it. Give tham a call.

    As to your crossovers, Klipsch used different suppliers over the years. I'm sure the values are the same in each Type AA. The parts Klipsch used are very durable, so, unless you are hearing a problem, you don't have any bad components. Unless you are redesigning the crossovers, you should replace the caps and inductors with ones of equal value.

    John

  6. Q-man,

    I've got 125 wpc amps and I'm concerned about that wattage, too. Maybe for different reasons, though. twenty years ago it was a common occurance that high power amps were dirty and noisy at low output. Soundcraftsman and the GAS Ampzilla were perfect examples. I don't know if modern amps exhibit the same traits, but I suspect they do, at least a little. try to listen to the Cinepro with the provision you can return it if you're not satisfied.

    Try to listen to Aragon amps. Though powerful, I believe all of them operate in Class A up to 10% or better of their rating and then Class AB up to their rated capacity. You should be able to buy Aragon for the price of McIntosh. I've listened to them on other speakers, but not my own.

    John

  7. There could also be something in the chamber between the woofer cone and the slot that opens into the bass horn. Sometimes I will hear a chestyness or extra bassiness to male vocals (listen to either od Seal's CDs). That is a resonance in the bass horn. You can feel the sides vibrating at that same frequency. Other than that, I get no unusual sounds from my La Scalas.

    John

  8. The Klipschorn, Belle and La Scala are currently out of production. Klipsch is looking for new squawker drivers and maybe new tweeters. You might find a new pair in a warehouse somewhere or by dealer transfer. Ebay is also a pretty good place to look for used ones. I'd drive to where ever to pick them up if I bought a used pair. They're too valuable to risk in shipping. Now that Tweeter has opened in Hamilton Place, you could try to see if they can find you a new set. They are pretty big Klipsch customers. I want to get over there myself.

    If I bought used, I'd be looking for the late 70s/early 80s models. They have the solder terminal K-55-V squawker and the ceramic magnet tweeter. This is my favorite configuration. The latest models with the K-55-M MAY be smoother in the midrange, and my La Scalas with those squawkers don't sound much different from the ones with the -Vs, but for some reason I prefer the -Vs. If you buy a set with Type AK networks in them, plan on replacing the Type AK. The Type AK/AB/AL network was the first one used with the K-55-M begining in 1982. It is essentially the same as the Type AL and should sound just as awful. ALK networks or Klipsch Type AK-3 would be a good upgrade. I have a pair of the ALKs and love them.

    When was the last time you heard the Klipsch Heritage series?

    John

  9. The K-43 woofer is what you want. It is designed to be used with the back air chamber volume and the slot size in the throat of the horn. It is sometimes said to have 2 or 3 dB more output than the K-33.

    John

    This message has been edited by John Albright on 12-07-2001 at 01:34 PM

  10. Start off by using the original crossover slopes. I don't know which squawker you have, but for the K-55-V and Type AA network, the bass is rolled off at 6 dB/octave above 400 Hz, the squawker is rolled in at 6 dB/octave above 400, has no upper roll off and the tweeter is rolled in at about 18 dB/octave above 6000 Hz. I say about because the high pass filter on the tweeter is not an ideal Butterworth. It has a "bump" in the response of a dB or so at 6k. I believe this is an attemp to EQ the system and make up for the K-55-V's falling response at 6K.

    The K-55-M doesn't fall off at 6k like the -V does so I believe the networks for that driver roll off at 12 dB/octave above 6k.

    John

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