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JohnA

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Posts posted by JohnA

  1. Klipsch designed the Z-bracket to flush mount the tweeter in a Belle and K-horn. They require a larger hole for the tweeter so it can fit through to the front. The the Z is used to screw the tweeter to the back of the motorboard while holding it forward flush with the front of the motorboard. It will also work on La Scalas. I con't recommend them for Cornwalls or Heresies due to the cabinet seal that's required.

    John

  2. Ross,

    Yes, I did it to my front La Scalas to the squawker opening. I went to Home Depot and bought their heaviest self adhesive felt and cut it into 3/4" strips. I stuck that to the edges of the plywood where the squawker horn "looks" through. I disassembled my tweeters to front mount them; don't do it, get Z-brackets!

    It's been so long I can't remember how it affected the sound. I don't think I did that much for the squawker.

    John

  3. You cannot adjust the impedance of an amplifier after it has been built. If you could it would likely not change the way your speakers sound.

    Not getting too technical, your amp is rated to put out some number of watts into an 8 ohm speaker. It does not have an 8 ohm impedance itself (more like 0.05 ohms output impedance). As the speaker's impedance gets lower the amp puts out more power until the thermal limits of the transistors are reached or the power limit of the power supply is met. Then the amp clips or the thermal protection circuits operate and probably shut the amp off. More than likely the minimum speaker impedance for your amp is 4 ohms, so you are in good shape unless you try to run 2 pair of speakers. The impedance would be half of the impedance one pair would be. Even then, the amp will not be damaged unless you insist on pushing it hard and making it get too hot.

    John

  4. I doubt the bass driver from the KSW-10 was relabeled and put into the RP-3. They may look alike, especially since Klipsch makes most of its own drivers now days, but thee is surely a difference that justifies the new number.

    That said, a bass driver can be placed in any box design if the volume is adjusted for its new role. The K-33-E in the Cornwall is a ready example. The Cornwall is ported abd the K-horn, Belle, and La Scala are horn-loaded acoustic suspension designs.

    John

  5. Rope caulk cannot hurt the horns and it is removable. You'll have to try it to see it it will work. Use at least 2 layers mashed on firmly.

    Your cabinets were not designed to have "insulation". Adding it will change the tuning and will likely make the bass softer, with peaks and valleys in the response. I cannot predict where or how bad the peaks and valleys will be. Try it and see if you like it. The "insulation" will not affect the horns.

    John

  6. If you have the round (AlNiCo) magnet tweeters you can swap them for the rectangular magnet T-35/K-77-Ms and get smoother more extended highs. If your squawker drivers have spring-clip K-55-Vs, you can change them to the solder terminal K-55-Vs and get smoother response between 4k and 6k Hz. I can't hear the difference, myself.

    I'd wrap the squawker horn and tweeter horn in several layers of rope caulk to damp the horns and I got an audible improvement in my La Scalas by replacing the capacitors with Hovland Musicaps from madisound.com. You might consider changing the woofer inductor to a Solen "Perfect-lay".

    Other than that, you already have a great speaker.

    John

  7. Speakers and amps DO NOT need a break-in. Turning the treble on your preamp all the way up could have easily overpowered the tweeter. In addition, turning the bass all the way up could have easily caused the bass notes to clip, even with a 220 watt amp. Clipping generates HUGE amounts of high frequency energy that kills tweeters. Go to Rat Shack and get a sound level meter and use it to keep from clipping your amp. 220 watts is 23 dB louder that 1 watt. the loudest you should be able to get the system, on peaks, is 123 dB at 1 meter from a speaker. BTW, that's insanely loud. If you stop turning it up at 113 dB on the meter at 1 meter away (with no bass or treble boost) you will be relatively safe. Stop at 103 dB, or so with the boost on.

    John

  8. It sounds like you're turning up the volume too loud and activating the tweeter protection. One side of the amp may be a bit louder than the other, or one tweeter protector may be more sensitive than the other. I'd say what you're doing is bordering on abuse and you should not turn the volume up that loud any more.

    John

  9. There HAS been a recent degradation in the demeanor of the BBS lately, but it has come from a very few people and I don't think it has gotten serious, yet.

    I still see the "Old Timers" posting and I visit at least once a day, so I think most of the core of the BBS is still active. My posts have become less frequent in the last few months because I see fewer questions that I have answers for. It seems I am learning about other Klipsch speakers other than the Heritage Series I have.

    John

  10. http://www.alkeng.com/klipsch.html

    Go here for a great replacement crossover network.

    I don't know which network came in "84 K-horns (Type AK?), so I can't provide a schematic. If yours have Type AKs and they are essentially the same as Type ALs, you should replace them soon.

    There are construction plans available from Speakerlab and the easiest place to get them is from Ebay.com. You can find specifications on this web site.

    John

  11. The diaphragm for the K-77/K-77-M/E-V T-35/E-V T-350 can be bought in the U.S. for about $23. Many here have replaced them themselves. I have not, but it's not supposed to be hard. Go to a Pro Audio shop and ask about getting the diaphragm in a T-35 replaced and see what it'll cost. $100 is too high in the U.S.

    Klipsch will do it for $77.

    Blowing a tweeter in a La Scala with it's tweeter protection circuits in place indicates the speaker has been pushed too hard (or the attached amp has). Unless some other part has failed, I wouldn't worry about damage. Replacing the other diaphragms or reconing the woofer is relatively inexpensive, if one of those parts turn out to be damaged. The squawker diaphragm is about $55 and reconing the woofer in the U.S. is about $75.

    John

    This message has been edited by John Albright on 09-30-2001 at 12:50 PM

  12. Neither the LSI, nor the standard La Scala is in production at this time. You'll have to buy either used.

    Technically, there is no such thing as a "Home" La Scala. La Scalas were made for pro use either in clubs and theaters (what you call the home version) or for touring, the LSI. There were at least 2 configurations of the LSI, one and 2 piece. All of the LSIs I've seen pictured had handles. All were black with corner and edge protectors. I use 2 pair of La Scalas in my home theater, but they take up a lot of room and the rear pair is purely overkill. I *could* be persuaded to sell those.

    Your CE2000 is generally too powerful for one pair of La Scalas. Maybe if used to power 2 or 3 pair, it will be about right. If you use it, you will have to be very careful with your gain controls and prevent clicks, pops and squeals from feedback to keep from smoking some of the drivers.

    John

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