JohnA
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Posts posted by JohnA
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Socks are fine and there will be no damage to the speaker. One of my previous speaker systems (Marantz) even suggested stuffing the port to control the bass in problem rooms and they provided a response curve with the port stuffed. I have done it to other ported speakers as well.
John
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T-man,
Tell your dad, I'm doing just as you suggest. I run from the sub out of my pre-amp/processor to the line in of a seperate power amp and then to 2 huge passive subs. It works so well I routinely vibrate knick-knacks off of the furniture upstairs.
John
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There is really no such thing as a high-end cable company that doesn't overcharge for their products. The really high-end cables have much more mark-up and therefore less value than Monster products. Klipsch chose Monster because that have been using Monster wire for several years in the Heritage Line.
John
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Steve,
Just have somebody OH that -V. You shouldn't need a new driver at all.
John
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Connect the LFE out to the Sub. LFE is not the same as low bass in the main channels. My Pre/Pro can send the LFE signal to the mains if I want it to, but I'm not sure all receivers can. To get the best "impact" from DVDs you need that LFE connection.
John
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First, I'd center everything on the TV screen, so sounds in the center sound like they are coming from the TV. As for surrounds, I liked the SS-1s I heard and they would not be too big to replace your current rears. Due to space, I'd look at the smaller WDST surrounds for your room.
John
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I pretty sure "S" means 1977.
John
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My experience with speaker cables, including Monster and hand braided CAT-5, is that above 14 guage, for 10 or 15 foot runs, there is no difference. I believe Monster Cable is 12 ga.
OTOH, I have been able to hear an improvement between good and very good interconnects, but the difference was small. I define good at about $20 a pair vs. very good at about $80 a pair (I have only 1 pair at $80). The small difference may even be due to the interaction between my preamp and power amp and might not be audible on your equipment.
My recommendation is to buy the best interconnects and cables you're willing to afford and later try some better ones if you just can't stand not knowing if there is a difference.
John
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You're looking at a Heritage speaker with a letter code for the date. If I'm not in error, S = 1977. That should be a good year for Heresies.
John
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Time for me to chime in, it seems.
I have 2 of the older Larger Subwoofers in the vertical cabinet. Due to a past session with my air guitar,
they now have a set of Mega woofers in them. Mine are powered by an Acurus A-250, capable of about 450 watts per channel into each sub (@ 4 ohms). That's not too much power. Scott, you'll eventually want to get lots more power, for the time being, it will work.I'd also recommend getting a pair of 40 of 50 Hz low-pass F-mods from Harrison Labs to use as your "electronic" crossovers and bypassing the internal crossovers. F-mods plug into the amp's inputs and the interconnect plugs into them; they're neat. 90 Hz is too high for the Chorus so you'll have a big bass hump where the two overlap.
"Mr. Scott, I need more power!" Start saving for a gorilla amp, like that 555.
John
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The dome is a dust cap and will not affect the sound of the passive radiator. If it bothers you try pulling it out with a piece of duct tape or a straight pin (use both gently, of course).
John
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Olaf,
A+B powering 2 pair of speakers MIGHT cause problems for SOME amps. Bi-wiring using A+B will be exactly like bi-wiring with A alone. Properly done (no shorts), bi-wiring will not change the power the amp produces, the impedance it sees, or cause any harm at all.
John
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Doug,
It is my understanding that teenagers are High impedance, High inertia devices. For this reason, your need a seperate and powerful motivator to get them working!
John
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Does your Onkyo have "A" and "B" speaker outs for the speakers you want to bi-wire? If so, put one wire in each and set the selector to "A+B"
John
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Gil and Ray did a great job! I'd like to add that the 2.83 volts is a further standardization, because no speaker is a uniform 8 ohm load. Using 2.83V RMS is an easily measured, precise calibration point.
The common statement is "104 dB @ 1 watt @ 1 meter". However, the Heritabe Klipsch typically vary from 4 ohms in the bass to 32 ohms in the midrange. Since power is volts x volts/resistance, if the resistance changes, the power input changes. Measuring only voltage (rather than power that really has 2 components, volts & resistance) is a simple, reliable calibration standard.
John
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I'd tried something like that on Yahoo!, but didn't find what i needed. I am pretty ignorant of musical scales and need more obvious information. I tried your google search and MAY have seen what I was looking for if I understood the meaning of the scale/octave numbers. Apparently, a piano can hit 25 Hz.
Thanks!
John
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That would make the bass tuned three octaves lower than a guitar. Does that sound right?
John
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Shock-Late,
You seem to be rapidly heading for McIntosh (used?). In the meanwhile I'd try some MOSFET amps like the Parasound HCA-1500 (and higher model numbers), or B&K. Next would be Aragon, even their old 4004.
Are these available in Belgium?
John
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I'd like to be able to afford fair!
Have you considered false corners? They worked very well in Mr. Paul's house.
John
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Hi Doug,
I saw that! It's sort of demented isn't it?
John
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Klipsch uses autoformers to (generally) lower the output of the squawker to match the rest of the system. The higher impedance caused by this is an undesireable side-effect that usually has no effect on system performance with SS amps, but MAY cause amplitude response errors with some types of tube gear.
Al Klappenberger has "discovered" a somewhat better performing autoformer than Klipsch uses, for a nominal price. Exotic autoformers could always be used, but I have no idea if the results would be audible. Al's replacement networks are quite good.
John
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I know the standard guitar tuning (E A D G B E) is tuned to A = 440 Hz. What is the fundamental of the others? What about an electric bass (E A D G)? Is there a good source of this information? Online?
John
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Well, Jo-Jo,
You need to be a little more specific about your interests. There are a bunch of engineers here that will tell you how a clock is made before telling you the time.
John
This message has been edited by John Albright on 06-25-2001 at 11:51 AM
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I like it. Very clean and neat!
John
they now have a set of Mega woofers in them. Mine are powered by an Acurus A-250, capable of about 450 watts per channel into each sub (@ 4 ohms). That's not too much power. Scott, you'll eventually want to get lots more power, for the time being, it will work.
Pros and Cons of Plastic-Framed Speakers
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Well, I hope the plastic IS cheaper.
A basic tenent of engineering is that the geometry of an object (length, width, & thickness) controls its stiffness. If the material is the same, this is easy to see: a 2x4 is stiffer than a yardstick.
The glass reinforced plastic frames may well be stiffer and maintain better alignment than a equal stamped steel frame. As with the floors of your house, strength is not an issue, stiffness is. You don't want your floor to feel like a trampoline and you want the stiffest woofer basket you can afford.
Good engineering is the CHEAPEST full performance solution.
John
This message has been edited by John Albright on 07-14-2001 at 02:59 PM