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JohnA

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Posts posted by JohnA

  1. Well, I got the joke!

    Your friend's La Scalas probably have a K-55-V squawker (midrange) driver. It should be grey and about softball-sized. That is the squawker driver I prefer.

    Since they won't fit in his entertainment center, he really need Doug's help. I know Doug and he will give them a good home. Smile.gif

    John

  2. Well, Max, You've spoken well and have described my experience with K-horns perfectly. I have La Scalas and 2 subwoofers in an attempt to achieve the same thing in a room not designed for "The Horns." I get close. The experience of hearing the music in the room, without speakers, is the reason Klipsch speakers exist.

    John

  3. I've purchased several items off of ebay. I've never been burned, but I used iescrow.com for all big ticket items I didn't pickup myself. My last pair of La Scalas were $446 through ebay (plus a $50 stupid tax speeding through Columbia, SC).

    If you know what you want and what it is worth, don't be afraid. Use a service like iescrow.com and don't get bidding fever and you'll make out.

    John

  4. I believe these will meet your needs. Some of them are even "Klipsch" Products. I'm certain the Aragon will meet any sonic standard you'd want at $1200. The Acurus preamps can often be bought at a small discount.

    http://www.klipsch.com/index.asp?path=/products/mondialdetail.asp?frame=y&id=305&line=&1

    http://www.klipsch.com/index.asp?path=/products/mondialdetail.asp?frame=y&id=304&line=&1

    http://www.klipsch.com/index.asp?path=/products/mondialdetail.asp?frame=y&id=318&line=mondial&1

    http://www.parasound.com/products/preamps/pld1100.html

    http://www.bkcomp.com/preamp.html

    I couldn't get a price on the B&K, but I suspect it is about $1k or less.

    These are all 2-channel. You're not going to get much HT Pre/Pro for <$1500 new. A used Pre/Pro would be in your range.

    John

  5. Generally speaking, a vaulted ceiling is a good thing. It breaks up standing waves (resonance). I like the double sheetrock walls, can't be much more expensive and will greatly stiffen the wall, plus reduce sound transfer into and out of the room. Multiple block bridges between the studs would be a good idea, too. The "blocks" are usually made from scrap lumber. Stop adding blocks when the cost is noticible. Just one is a satisfying improvement. I'd say 3 or more, all around the room, is overkill. jmon's corners were a special case.

    John

  6. Hi, Bev!

    The first thing is to change the room size. 20 x 20 will be great to set up a resonance (standing waves) in the bass that is equal to the 20 foot length; about 55 Hz. You want to avoid any dimension that is an integer multiple of another dimension; like 8 x 16 x 24 (1:2:3). If you will make one wall out of square, you will just about garauntee no resonance. Try a room that's 18 x 20 x 22 x 20.4 feet, for instance, that's one non-parallel side wall. Two non-parallel side walls looks even cooler, like an auditorium and works better. The triangles made by the angled walls become closets.

    Insist all 4 walls of this room, plus the ceiling and floor have at least one row of "block bridging" per 8' of stud or joist. Block bridging is a 2-by whatever brace nailed between the stud or joist about in the middle of the 8' span. It stiffens the wall a lot without costing much money. Don't accept steel straps, they don't work much. Make sure the 2 x 4 studs get covered on both sides with sheetrock or some sort of paneling (normal) to further ensure their stiffness and insulate all of the walls, ceiling and floor of this room with fiberglass (only abnormal in the interior wall(s)).

    You want to make the room as non-resonant as reasonably possible and use carpet and wall treatments (curtains, acoustic panels or Persian rugs) to control reflections. IMHO, more than this, like diffusers, is getting obsessive/compulsive, but can improve the sound of your room.

    John

  7. I would think flexible walls and floors would make the bass muddy by setting up resonance at some frequencies and not others. Placement in the room and its dimensions will cause peaks and nulls in the bass, so that some places have too much and others have none.

    John

  8. Use C weighting and slow response. Sit in your favorite spot and activate the pink noise generator. With the meter pointed at the TV and slightly up, set the output of all channels to the same level. Since you are not using the LFE outs, set the sub by playing music and adjusting the sub so its output is the same as the main speaker's woofer. Hold the meter close to the drivers to get a reading. Then tweak by ear.

    John

  9. I bought "Tricycle" used through Amazon.com after hearing the clips. It is recorded well and has HUGE dynamic range. It caused Cathy to jump, startled, in the first cut. However, the performance is weak and there are several mistakes left on the release. The whole CD sounds like there was no rehearsal done beforehand.

    It's still a neat demo disc.

    John

  10. The ACT-3 has about a dozen available crossover frequencies. The crossover can be applied to the sub only or to the sub and the other speakers. There is no "Large" and "small" setting for theother speakers. You just select the crossover frequency you want, or none at all (the equivalent of "large").

    John

  11. TTK,

    Yes, I am quite happy with my ACT-3. It is a Class A preamp that sounds very good. I've heard some magical stuff come out of it. It has one flaw; noise. All signal processing, like volume control, is done in the digital domain. In addition, the analog gain is very high in order to meet some DD standard. The result is noise that would go unnoticed on lesser speakers. Mondial has been eager to modify my unit to cure the noise, but I'm not willing to do without it. I have done the same thing they would do by turning down the input gains to my power amps. The noise is not inaudible unless my ears are almost touching the grilles.

    I use a Parasound HCA-1203A for the front channels and a Parasound HCA-1000A for the rears. I use an Acurus A-250 for my sub amp. The A-250 was bought used and is several years old. The ACT-3 seems to be made as well as the A-250. It has been perfect.

    I wish it had tone controls, just simple ones at +/- 6 dB would be fine. There are too many poor recordings and difficult rooms to be without them.

    John

  12. I did emphasize output exclusively, but I did it because it is an easy concept to explain. Low distortion comes from lack of strain (engineering definition) while reproducing a particular sound. A system capable of La Scala output should not be under much strain at typical levels.

    Since the highs are filtered out of subwoofers, I'm not convinced "quick" even applies to a sub. A waveform with a steep rise and fall has lots of high frequencies in it to create that steep (quick) slope. A sub will never receive the highs that make the sound seem "quick". Distortion is another matter. I chose my subs because they looked capable of the required efficiency and low distortion. If the Manufacturer's specs are to be believed, and he's not hiding anything in them, they do the trick, at least in the distortion department.

    John

  13. The T2A is an autoformer (transformer) that is used to reduce the output of the squawker and tweeter in a Heresy. The tweeter's efficiency is 104 to 105 dB@ 1 watt and the K-55-V squawker is 107 dB@ 1 watt. The autoformer drops the voltage at the driver's terminals to make their output match the woofer's. A side effect is the squawker and tweeter appear to the amplifier to have very high impedance.

    John

  14. I still don't understand, Ed. If you want low bass coming from 5 directions, that's what DD & DTS do now. If you have a room with standing waves, treat the room. My Acurus Pre/Pro seems to be able to direct low bass and LFE to a sub or 2 (or more?) that *could* be optimally placed in any room. It seems everything you want is here, except main speakers that can actually operate from 5 Hz to 20 kHz.

    I run my 4 La Scalas full range, cross the center to the subs at 60 Hz and have the LFE channel set to SUB & LFE with a 60 Hz low pass. As I understand it, all 5 channels are blended into the SUB signal below 60 Hz and that plus the LFE goes to both subs. In addition, the center has a 60 Hz high pass filter on it.

    Is this not what you are asking for?

    John

  15. There are lots of good subs out there. The coming Klipsch RSW-15 has an MSRP of $1700 and I believe it will do the job. I spent an afternoon listening to it play The Matrix and it can ROCK. HSU makes a pretty good linr of subs that are similar in design to SVS. I've heard HSUs and they are nice at normal listening levels. The Earthquake sub may be enough, be sure to check max. output levels on whatever sub you buy. All decent subs can play with La Scalas up to a point. when they max out you'll have to turn them down if you keep turning the La Scalas up.

    John

    John

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