moray james
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Posts posted by moray james
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4 minutes ago, Marvel said:
Then it won't be a Klipsch product, just like it really won't be a Corvette.
are you a member of some secret Klipsch society which avails to educate those who might want to modify a Klipsch product which they own that they are somehow unknowingly destroying forever a Klipsch loudspeaker? If you have no assistance to offer by way of information or help then leave the guy to it. How many warning do there need to be, is there a set number he can at least look forward to when the warnings stop?
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you need brace work n matter what you build the only tine you don't is when you are making a very small cabinet and you use thick rigid wall material. Brace material should be rectangular a good ratio is 1:1.5 always fix the brace on the narrow edge so if you were using 1: thick material you would cut it 1.5" wide.
I told you what I did with my Quartet re the woofers. As for ports you have no room on the front for ports with a Quartet and ports on the back are much more problematic than are passive radiators.If you want to you can re tune your Quartet passives by adding 2 - 2.5 ounces of dead weight to the inside centre (cone apex) of the passive used large flat washers to keep the centre of gravity low and centre the weights to keep the passive stable. Hope this helps.
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On 3/15/2021 at 10:01 AM, Little Wolf said:
I got to listen to Forte II's: great speakers!
I really like their richness on high frequences and the reality on mid.
I was only a bit disappointed about low range: they lack bass! How is that possible?
They should have more bass than my KLF30's (they start from 32hz vs 36hz KLF's)
Maybe they was placed too far from rear wall? (about 3,2 ft)
The tweeter and the mid in a Forte 2 is the same as used in a Chorus 2 only the crossover of the Chorus differs as the mid is used to play down a little lower. Chorus can generate chest pounding bass but it is worth remembering this is in the 120 -140Hz range. KLF30 does not play quite a s low as either Forte but it pushes a lot more air so it has greater impact than a single 12" Forte.
The tweeter in a KLF20 or KLF30 is the same tweeter used in both the Forte and Chorus model lines. While the mid drivers used in Forte Chorus and KLF are also the same the mid horn of the KLF is a newer and wider band design than that used in the Forte 2 or the Chorus 2 (both use the same mid horn). Hope this helps and is of interest.
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this is how I braced mine. Would make some changes if I did this again but nothing radical.
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The bass was so much improved that I am thinking of using only one woofer in my KLF20 rather than a pair as I now know that a single KLF20 ten inch woofer can be enough for me. Deeper extension than any other Klipsch I have had as well. Shows you what a good stiff box can do for you!
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RIP Marvin, you are one of the great Boxers of all time. Boxing will miss you.
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On 3/9/2021 at 8:40 AM, sparton175 said:
I'll be picking up my very first pair of Klipsch Heritage speakers this afternoon, a pair of Quartets. Are there any recommended mods/upgrades that people do to these models? I saw something about a weight on the passive radiator and some talk of tweeter upgrades. I don't want to spend an arm and a leg upgrading them but some basic recommendations would be very much appreciated.
I dropped a set of KLF20 woofers into my Quartet added weight to the passive and added some damping to the cabinet in the form of high density fiberglass on the struts only and put them on four post stands which placed the centre of the mid horn at my seated ear level around 40" up off the floor. Best Bass I have achieved from any Klipsch I have owned and modified. see brace work below.
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6 hours ago, SWL said:
Key words = well functioning.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Issues with KLF series to know about #1) loose baffles (front and back) due to defective hot melt adhesive on the melamine. Remove the melamine at the joint reassemble with white wood glue will be much better than new and last forever. #2) Black poly tweeter diaphragms the worst Klipsch ever used replace them. 3) Woofer dust caps coming loose easy to repair. 4) Upgrade crossover caps. 5) Brace work. That's all the big stuff there are lots of mods folks can do to take them further if they want to. Excellent speakers.
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8 hours ago, Jvitti1970 said:
Which one and why. ?
i am a 2 channel listener.
System is used primarily for Music
I have owned three sets of KLF20 and a set of CF3 and two sets of Forte2 and one pair of Forte but I have not owned the Chorus but I do own a set of JBL L200b which now have installed in them a pair of JBL 2226 woofers (these are 15" based two way speakers not so different from the Chorus). I think the only way for you to know which will suit you best is to listen to a pair of well functioning KLF20 and also a pair of Chorus ll. The thing is that both do great stuff but you will have have to make this call.
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Happy birthday PWK and thank you.
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53 minutes ago, Chris A said:
It's a 4-way that's 17.4 inches wide and 45 inches tall, weighing 195 pounds(!), and is an active loudspeaker that loses directivity at 400-500 Hz (the 8 inch "woofers"). Dual 15" subwoofers are built into the base to extend the frequency response down to (a claimed) 14 Hz. It has a lot of amplifier power capability (400w to the tweeter and midrange, 750w to the woofers, and 1500w to the dual 15" subwoofers).
It clearly uses DSP and FIR filtering to achieve this kind of SPL and phase response:
It's not my cup of tea, but it is interesting. I bet the price will reflect all of the above.
I wouldn't call it a multiple entry horn (MEH) design, per se, but one that makes use of a MEH top end. It has all the disadvantages of a direct radiating loudspeaker and few if any advantages that a full-range MEH has: efficiency and full-range controlled directivity. The only thing it really has is flat phase and SPL response due to the extensive use of FIR filtering.
Chris
wow would love to hear a pair of those. thanks for posting.
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On 1/21/2016 at 10:22 PM, marems said:
Here's one of the completed recapped xover.
Fremont wow you are almost close enough to visit.I could walk across the boarder (from Calgary) and claim asylum then come visit you and hear your newly re capped CF networks.
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1 hour ago, BigStewMan said:
why would they want to kill me ... I'm not that important.
my cousin is afraid that they'll plant a microchip in her. again I say, why do they need to track her? besides they already know her whereabouts from her cell phone ... and probably smart tv.
you are not important but you are taking up space and resources, you are a huge liability and that's a good enough reason. gotta cull the herd.
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push pull EL34 will supply between 30 - 35 watts no problem.
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The symbol for a PPTC (AKA Resettable Fuse) is:
This poly switch is there to protect the tweeter from heavy hands on the volume control by partially deaf people. The parallel resistor insures that there is always 100 ohms in series with the tweeter (I think, for those who design xovers feel free to correct me, thanks). -
2 hours ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
personally i notice no difference on my recaps from the first 5 minutes to an hour to a month or longer...
well we are going to have to disagree on this one and I don't just base my findings on my own experience. I also find there can be a wide range of difference with brands and types of caps. I disagreed with Bob also regarding this, rest his soul. Lots of folks don't hear or notice lots of things, happens all the time.
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I cannot recall if the C7 used the one inch ti tweeter diaphragm if it does then yes I would change it to titanium. The only way you will know if you will like this is to try and listen for yourself as only your decision matters to you.
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phenolic diaphragms are warm rich/smooth and creamy sounding, titanium diaphragms are more detailed smoother in overall response a little more extended in the top end they are more dynamic resolution is better. you should really listen to both and make your own decision, though few are disappointed all the new Klipsch use ti diaphragms. No one can tell you what you will like. If you like any new Klipsch then you will like the ti tweeters and mids in your KLF30 especially the ti mid diaphragms available only from Simply speakers these are original factory parts. Hope this helps.
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16 hours ago, JohnW said:
Does anyone know the specs for the RB-5 II crossovers?
can't find it the RB5 will be very similar. There are only three caps in this crossover the bass section uses a 20 uF cap the tweeter uses two small Mylar caps should not be hard to read the values if you have the unit to look at.See RB-5 below. nothing to write home about parts wise but decent.
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just curious to know if you tried the speakers with the tweeter horns to the inside as opposed to the outside position and if so what did you notice? You are very close to the side walls and first bounce will have an impact. moving the CD rack forward toward the loudspeaker will let it provide some first bounce diffraction.
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2 hours ago, DizRotus said:
What is the material from which the horns are made? Are they metal, resin, or something else? Are the cobra’s teeth solid? If you grind them away will there be holes?
Thanks for the photos and the detailed analysis.
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8 hours ago, Ray_pierrewit said:
So I spent the better part of the evening getting acquainted with the stock Sentrys. Having enjoyed my LaScalas, both modified and stock, for over 12 years I feel well placed to compare the two, though to be fair, the placement of the Sentrys isn't helping the low end as they aren't tucked into the corners. They're about 3' from the back wall and a couple of feet from the sides. I had tried the LaScalas in a similar placement a couple of back so I'll have to count on my auditory memory to compare.
Unsurprisingly, both sets are lean in this position and I have no sub-woofers to lend a hand. I've been treated to the QPies tucked into the corners for the past six months and can now fully appreciate the QPie design and execution, full bass horn down to 50hz with room gain. Of course, what bass is there has real chest impact but needs higher volumes to be satisfactory. Which leads me to what has been a real revelation. The LaScalas when driven to these levels are fatiguing to me. Is it the K400, the room, the placement? Who knows. The Sentrys could be dangerous, because the volume seems to get louder and louder without them feeling as aggressive. I hear no distortion on both models at these levels and beyond with my 2A3 SET amp.
The SM-120A sectoral horn is, I believe, a real gem. I don't know what to think of the 1823M driver just yet, would like to try the A55Gs to compare the two. The ST 350A sectoral tweeter is likewise very pleasant, good enough extension for my ears. It's the first time I listen to tweeters that are mounted below the midhorn, which I seem to remember @moray james advocating. Would love if he could elaborate here.
The Sentry wins inasmuch as the height of the drivers. The bass bin is 41" high, which places the middle of the tweeter at approximately 37 1/2" and the mid horn at 46", corresponding well to my seated position. The LaScalas are currently sitting on the QPies which greatly helped in this regard. At this height, both models excel at imaging. Good coverage is vital for me, because most of my listening during the day is outside of the sweet spot. I need for my music to sound pleasing and balanced everywhere in my studio and both the Sentry and LaScala tick that box. Dynamics and ability to energize the room are also very similar, effortless.
These two are alike in many ways, cousins perhaps. Visually, the LaScala will always have a place in my heart. I find it's design and visual volumes to be just perfect, a feat of engineering and a work of art. The Sentry, well I'm still getting used to the look. The SM 120A is a strange horn to look at, sort of like staring at the gaping mouth of a Cobra.
Very quick question: is there any danger in using the A55G (12ohm) in lieu of the 1823M (8ohm) with the current crossover? I'll include the schematic I found for the Sentry IVB.
I like your home made cylindrical poly fusers. Did you notice much a difference in sound stage and spatial image after you installed them?
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you could grind those tweeter mounts off of the mid horns for a nicer visual and I am sure improved performance. Just a thought, carry on and enjoy them maybe closer to the front wall to pick up some extra room gain after all your Q-pies were corner mounted.
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good luck with your sale, they look very nice indeed.
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Industrial Conversion for Quartets - Brain Storming First
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
ports are obviously a lot cheaper than passive radiators are and with a pro cabinet there is usually room for ports on the back side of the cabinet if the front baffle is taken up with woofers and horns. Pro rigs generally have more available space so vent location is less of an issue unless you are talking small clubs so you will find small pro cabinets with front mounted vents. I like to have vents on the rear of the cabinet where possible but this will depend on the individual room. Rear vents do a better job of hiding upper bass frequencies which may escape via vents and it also covers vent chuffing better than front placement. I had one pair of KLF20 I upgraded for my daughter during her university days living in smaller rental accommodations I placed the vents on the front of the cabinet so placement would be easier and open up more available floor space since the speaker could be placed close to the front wall if necessary. On my other two sets of KLF20 I left the vents on the rear of the cabinet. It all comes down to trade offs and your priorities.