babadono
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Posts posted by babadono
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Are these the ones with the adapters so they go straight onto a K 402. No muss, no fuss? I would think that would be a selling point.
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WMcD,
I was trying to be funny. The schematic shows both ends of these caps attached to ground. Now either the schematic was drawn in error or these caps do nothing.
babadono
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If it is the amplifier it will be as described above (cap fix).
djk,
I loooked at the schematics on line for this and you are correct. My hat's off to you. BTW what are the .01 caps C235,C236 at the input that are tied from ground to ground doing?
RickTate,
Are you up to digging into this and fixing it?
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So what would you do if you didn't have test equipment?
Ah.......take it to someone who does? I dunno that's just a guess.
Is there anyone close to RickTate that can help him out?
RickTate,
Can you get any suppoort from MacIntosh?
babadono
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If the loudness function is not the issue, all the small electrolytics should be replaced in the McIntosh
djk and ricktate,
Wow really? I would want to put a signal generator and oscilloscope on that Mac before I started replacing parts in a Mac. Hey but that's just me. I am an electronic engineer.
babadono
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RickTate,
I don't even see any subwoofer output on the unit Dave linked the data sheet of. If this is your unit then definitely the main pre outs should have the full range signal. Do you know what the input impedance of the Mac is? It should be high compared to the output impedance of the AVR pre outs but perhaps the output coupling capacitors are too small in value or they have degraded with age. This is all speculation on my part. Do the pre outs sound OK when coupled into the internal amp of the AVR?
babadono
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RickTate,
I could be way off here but I think Carl meant the bass is being redirected to the SUBWOOFER output and taken out of the main pre outputs if the mains are set to small.
babadono
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Hey! Look around. This whole place is made out of rock.
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BentMike,
So when you are using the battery powered player there is no AC to get coupled/induced/ground looped into the powered speakers. When you are using the player is it with the same cable? From your earlier posts I think it is a different cable. Turn off the speakers. Take the cable that you are using with the computer and unplug it from the computer. Leave the speaker end hooked up. With the speakers off, short what you think is the ground contact to the two signal contacts on the plug that normally goes into the computer. Turn the speakers on. Is there no hum when you do this? If there is no hum when you do this but as soon as you plug it into the computer you get hum you will need one of those gizmos that DJK suggested. Sometimes that is the only thing that will fix this.
babadono
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BentMike,
Just FYI. Those caps may not physically be there. It could be parasitic capacitance of the transformer or other parts of the circuit. Much good information about these types of issues can be found at the Jensen Transformer website. Checkout their app. notes and white papers.
babadono
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Dr Who,
Where did the OP go? Did we scare him off?
Bent Mike,
Is your problem fixed?
babadono
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BentMike,
OK good so you are using the unbalanced inputs. Do you have a 1/4 phone plug that you can short the tip to the sleeve on? Plug this into the input of each speaker, this effectively makes the input to the speaker it own ground(No signal). Is the hum gone?(Or at an acceptable level?) On both speakers? If yes both speakers are good. If one of the speakers is quiet but the other is not the problem is in that speaker(or amp or power supply since this is a self powered unit). This is the first step. You must determine if the two speakers are good. Just curious does the IEC power input connector have 2 or 3 contacts? If 3 does the ground contact tie to the 1/4 phone jack sleeve?
babadono
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BentMike,
Duh, nevermind about if you have a meter, I re read your post. I am trying to gain a little info about the speakers. What model are they? Looks like some have seperate balanced and unbalanced inputs and on others they tried to do both with the same input jack.
babadono
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BentMike,
Hmmm..... Do you have a volt/ohm meter to go along with your scope? When you say 1/4in jack you mean a phone jack correct? Is the input to the speaker a 1/4 jack? And you are plugging in a 1/4 plug correct? Is the speaker input jack tip/sleeve or tip/ring/sleeve?
babadono
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Cool! I will PM you. BTW awesome job on the HT. Enjoy!
babadono
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Hammer,
Where'd you get the Klipsch placard? The one in the last pix.
babadono
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Thanks to DBT and ABX testing, we now know the following:
1) All amplifiers sound the same.
2) All CD players sound the same.
3) A coat hanger sounds the same as an expensive interconnect.
4) MP3 sounds the same as CD.
5) CD sounds the same as SACD.
6) High resolution PCM sounds the same as DSD.
Dean,
you forgot:
7) All crossovers sound the same.
8) All speakers sound the same.
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Hmmmm.... If the quieter parts have been boosted so they can be recorded and played louder they must be downward expanded and played softer upon playback, No? Or I'm I missing something? And the louder parts that have been compressed to fit onto the given recording medium must be expanded upwards. Now if the louder parts were just allowed to overmodulate or 'clip' the recording medium all bets are off.
babadono
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Where do I vote?
We are just asking everyone to raise their hand if they are in favor.
Oh in that case if this is the place I vote heck ya! Especially if they will offer it in cherry veneer to match my RF 7IIs
babadono
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Where do I vote?
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bracurrie,
If I'm understanding the info at the manufacturers website this is a downward expander or an upward expander but not both. Can you use two in series? One to downward expand the signal below the threshold and then a second to upward expand signals above the threshold. Now that I am thinking about this maybe they would have to be in parallel not series and then you would have to sum the results back together (4 needed for stereo). Would be fun to experiment with. This is the way the old dbx technology (1bx, 3bx etc..) worked albeit in the analog domain. To retrieve dynamics that have been squashed you have to make the quiet parts quieter and the loud parts louder.
babadono
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I went with the eliptrac from Dave at Fastlane Audio. Its made for 2" drivers but he's got an adapter to go down to 1" so you don't have to upgrade your driver if you don't want/can't afford to. But don't rush. I listened to mine stock for 20+ years. Dave also will make the frame so it drops right into the tophat. At least I think he will but I really should not speak for him.
babadono
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absolve2525,
I agree with JBryan, take some time to listen to your KHorns. And do some listening at concert level. If you find yourself getting listener's fatigue or headaches you may want to try a new midrange (squawker) horn/driver. Best improvement I ever made to my circa '80s KHorns.
babadono
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rmlowz,
Just FYI the volume control on the XDA-1 is not like an analog control on a preamp or amp. It actually truncates the number of bits used in the D to A conversion to turn down the volume.
babadono
what multimeter to get to test drivers?
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
tswei,
The meter will be used to test if the voice coil is intact. Set the meter to the lowest resistance (ohms) scale. I don't know the exact reading you should get but probably betweeen 4 and 8 ohms. The speaker needs to be disconnected from the crossover to make this measurement. If the voice coil reads open circuit the speaker is 'blown' as they say. This is not the only thing that can be wrong with cone speakers. The cone can be torn or seperated from the metal surround hence as you may have heard of a speaker being 'reconed'. I hope this helps. I also have a pair of circa mid 70's LaScalas and my woofers are still alive and well.
babadono