Bubo
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Posts posted by Bubo
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Keep the c80, no brainer
Buy a Yamaha MX 600 or MX 800 and re-cap the unit. World class amps
You will have great sound compared to anything no matter the price
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Where are you located ?
I would look at Quality used totl 70-120W AVRs in the 10-20 year old range
Most of these are high quality AB Amps with huge power reserves for dynamic response.
No matter how good they sound, they don't sell for much.
Turn off all of the surround stuff and run it as a stereo in direct mode
If you get them cheap enough buy 3 or 4 as they come up and see which one you like best
Nice toys if nothing else
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Specs on it are OK CXA60
Integral DAC, would expect better SN
Maybe everyone measures a little differently
If the price is right, drive it for six months
and if you don't like it, sell it
I've picked up 5 AVRs that are great performers for around $60 total
The reality is that 15 year old AVRs have little resale value, no matter how good they sound. I would check CL and local resale shops too
Even a Little basic 1995 SONY D565 I picked up is in the ball park spec wise $14
Even has a great tuner section. Phono input, no DAC
Basic tone controls and bass boost button
I did pay $20 for a stock remote, Sony has their own multi unit remotes too new. I bought it for my daughter who I'm trying to ween off of earbuds, using it in my basement for now.
I blow them out with a compressor, check the solder joints and caps for leaks, and spray cleaner into the dials and buttons, miracles frequently occur
https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/sony/str-d565.shtml
CXA60
Detailed Specifications
Power output
60W RMS into 8 Ohms
90W RMS into 4 Ohms
DAC Wolfson WM8740
Frequency Response <5Hz – 60kHz +/-1dB
THD (unweighted)
<0.002% 1kHz at 80% of rated power
<0.02% 20Hz – 20kHz at 80% of rated power
Max power consumption 600W
Standby power consumption <0.5W
Analogue audio inputs 4 x RCA, 1 x 3.5mm MP3 input (front panel)
Digital audio inputs 1 x S/PDIF coaxial, 2 x TOSLINK optical, Bluetooth via BT100 (not supplied)
Compatibility
TOSLINK optical: 16-24 bit, 32-192kHz (using high quality TOSLINK optical cable)
S/PDIF coaxial: Linear PCM 16-24 bit, 32-192kHz
BT100 Bluetooth receiver: A2DP plus aptX
Outputs Speakers A+B, 3.5mm Headphone, Preamp Output, Subwoofer Output
Headphone output
THD: 0.002% (1kHz signal, 1V input, volume set to 1V HP output, 80kHz bandwidth,
into 32Ohm load)
S/N: dependent on volume pot position. Typically better than 95dBr
Frequency response @ +/- 1dB: <10Hz to >90kHz
Dimensions (H x W x D) 115 x 430 x 341mm (4.5 x 16.9 x 13.4”)
Weight 8.3kg (18.3lbs) -
http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/Altri marchi/Pioneer - Tuning Fork No.2 (~1980).pdf
http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/Altri marchi/Pioneer - Tuning Fork No.2 (supplement) (~1980).pdf
http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/Altri marchi/Pioneer - Tuning Fork No.3 (~1980).pdf
http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/Altri marchi/Pioneer - Tuning Fork No.4 (~1980).pdf
http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/Altri marchi/Pioneer - Tuning Fork No.5 (~1980).pdf
http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/Altri marchi/Pioneer - Tuning Fork No.6 (~1980).pdf
http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/Altri marchi/Pioneer - Tuning Fork No.7 (~1980).pdf
http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/Altri marchi/Pioneer - Tuning Fork No.8 (~1980).pdf
http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/Altri marchi/Pioneer - Tuning Fork No.9 (~1980).pdf
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If you wont fry yourself
A box of totl outlets and switches isn't a lot of money
same for a basic outlet circuit tester polarity and gfi
For a few bucks more, you can get an EMI detector at the HW store
You can go around and change them all out
inc adding GFI outlets next to water
Totl are like $1 more than junk outlets in builder packs
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The Dope From Pioneer Digital Supplement
great primer
http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/Altri marchi/Pioneer - Tuning Fork - Digital - Supplement (~1980).pdf
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Analog 101 at the peak of Analog Tech
1980s Pioneer Service Quarterly
It assumes Zero base knowledge
I will attempt to post all of these
Suggest downloading
If someone knows how to download all of them and pin to Tech it would be great
The guy who scanned them didn't know how to make them small PDF
If someone can fix and upload all to be pinned ?
http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/Altri marchi/Pioneer - Tuning Fork No.1 (~1980).pdf
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Chris A,
Just tripped over this web site, lots of cool scanned docs
Your boy Toole has some docs here from his early days
Lots of good stuff here to talk about
Do you want to copy these over to your Toole Thread ?
Or start a new thread ?
Lots of nice citations of Stds Groups Docs
http://www.cieri.net/altri_marchi.html
Toole White Paper on speaker design March 2000
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1 hour ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
with zero technical data, measurements, .
Since you asked
820C
produced in 1956
30 HZ - 22 KHZ
16 Ohm
30W RMS
230 lbs
1956 Price $ 525 / $35 Oz gold = 15 OZ
2021 Price is $1900 x 15 = $28,500
http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/Cataloghi/Altri marchi/Altec - Catalog 1964.pdf
Driver specs on brochure
Curves for the drivers are easy to find with a search
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On 1/12/2021 at 12:49 AM, ClaudeJ1 said:
This may be true, but don't those belong on a Lansing/JBL forum? Drifting a little away from the OP Involving LaScalas and their components, room placement, etc. is one thing, but don't you think it's not cool to show so many photos of non-Klipsch product where they don't belong on top of being irrelevant to all the points made before?
Claude
Are you the same guy that has an entire thread on a product you designed and built ?
Your horn is certainly not a Klipsch product.
If you delete your horn thread and all of the comments
I will delete the photos of the non Klipsch speakers you don't like
Let me know when you have finished deleting your thread
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3 hours ago, tidmack said:
When I had La Scalas without subwoofers, I often demo'd them with Sarah McLachlan, Fleetwood Mac, or anything with acoustic guitar. The punch of a La Scala is spectacular and they're a BIG soundstage kind of speaker that shines with vocal-heavy songs. Toss on some jazz, something with upright bass, or let's say '80s-'90s rap, and they're awful. If I hadn't owned 5 pair over the years, I would probably think there was something wrong with the speaker. Their bass response trails off pretty darn quickly. As years went on, I picked up a pair of Klipsch THX subs and ended up with speakers that would rival, or even possibly exceed my Klipschorns. The difference in a La Scala when paired with a capable sub is night and day to me.
As far as speakers in that size range to compare with La Scalas...Within the Klipsch line, the Klipschorn, even when poorly placed, equals the sound of the La Scala, AND has a smaller footprint. Please keep in mind, I am only talking about the original La Scala, not the La Scala II, which I think is a far improved design. Outside the Klipsch line, I immediately think about the JBL C38 or Altec 19, both of which I owned. I felt like the JBLs and Altecs "sounded like they should" consider the large size of their cabinets. Deep bass, detailed, and big, big volume when needed. The lack of bass with the La Scala has always been its downfall to my ears. It has big sound, but always sounded like it was missing an entire octave. But again, I don't think the criticism is necessarily fair, because the speaker was never really designed to shine outside of the punchy rock, or vocal-heavy acoustic realm.
Mostly what I like are the vocals and acoustic, don't know if its because of the LaScalas or the reverse ?
I did pair it up with a Klipsch RW12 front firing sub, and definitely more bass at the lower range. Mostly leave it off for what I listen to.
Both JBL and Altec made some great products. Haven't heard the ones you mentioned.
A lot of the Guys in the Mac forum AK were worked up over the 4350s, some managed to score some
Altec 820C was very impressive when I auditioned a pair, if I had room I would have the cabinets made and install some drivers. 811 horns. I thought they were a little shrill, might have been the amp, but was unable to swap amps. Great tight bass.
820C fully horn loaded, drivers aligned. 2x15 all Alnico magnets.
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31 minutes ago, tidmack said:
the driver upgrade topic has been here since my first day. It's no secret that PWK incorporated diminishing returns economics into his speaker drivers; after all, it's a business. If it didn't make sense to spend 2x on a particular driver for a minimal measured improvement, the existing driver was used.
Totally agree Klipsch understood declining marginal returns
It's the reason the company and designs are still around.
1% improvement at double the cost is a business killer
Just out of curiosity
What other large speakers are you referring to
and what types of music
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On 1/8/2021 at 5:54 AM, henry4841 said:
First just who is the guy and what qualifications does he have. Obviously he thinks he has golden ears. I frankly think the site is rubbish. Much like someone saying they can hear a difference in sound of a 1/4" of wire. On the internet you have to take claims with a grain of salt. My good sense tells me no one can tell the difference is sound between that many capacitors. After just 15 minutes it is hard to compare any audio gear being that sound has a very short memory of detail. For an accurate test all the caps would have to be hooked up switches and A/B'd against each other and done multiple times. I am sure PWK would get his button out.
Yeah
One of the big review sites
the editors can hear the difference with fast and slow headphone and speaker cables
Freq sweeps of 16GA Lamp cord and Gold cables, likely are identical
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Directivity
I'll have to take a look for horn geometry and effect on directivity and interference
Not sure how far away you have to be for free air dispersion to become noticable
Certainly it becomes an issue with a vibrating cabinet, or walls etc
At least I have some new video channels to watch for the winter
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Dispersion Demo using a spring
Dispersion on a Black Board, free air calcs are different than solids or liquids
Not sure how far away from a LaScala you have to before dispersion effects the noticeable sound quality. The solids demo could be speaker cabinets that vibrate.
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Dispersion Demo using a spring
Dispersion on a Black Board, free air calcs are different than solids or liquids
Not sure how far away from a LaScala you have to before dispersion effects the noticeable sound quality. The solids demo could be speaker cabinets that vibrate.
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Blue Horseshoe likes Wall Street
Better than expected
Excellent production quality video and sound
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2 hours ago, JMeader said:
what is it about these speakers that make them so easily placed in a room. If there was no other reason to own these speakers this ability is worth the expense
close your eyes and just sit back and enjoy.and it just does not matter anymore.
Welcome to the party
Horn loaded on all three drivers with roughly equal dispersion and phase
Mids are at ear level sitting.
Crossover point was 400hz on the mids which puts almost all voice energy on the mid horns
Atlas was I believe the original Compression driver OEM for the mids, they built a great driver which Klipsch foolishly walked away from in a cost cutting more, when he went back to Atlas they blew him off.
Unless you block them with a bookshelf, they sound great anywhere.
Guessing they were for theaters where sound is everything, turns out they are great in any size room.
Industrial versions were also produced, different industrial finish.
They came in raw birch plywood, veneer was an option; which I ,like most people, skipped for cost reasons.
I purchased mine instead of a car, and have never looked.
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11 minutes ago, Wirrunna said:
Bubo,
I recently set up my NAD amp to turn on a pair of amps in a tri-amp config and I just used a stereo cable, but the controlled amps had stereo plugs.
If you just get a cable with stereo plugs and cut one end off and strip the cable, put the shield to the "-" and the core cables to the "+" it should control them.
The outboard switch has no power of it's own to power the relay switch
I don't know if the AVR trigger socket is intended as a power outlet via the tiny plug
or just a signal device that goes high then low
The required current is 12VDC, 100 milli amps
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After years of staring at the 12VDC connectors on my receivers
I have decided to plug one in to a Niles SPK-1 AB speaker level switch
What do I use for a cable ? Standard 3.5MM headphone cable ?
If the connector is unique, where do I find them ?
or
Do I need a 12VDC power supply plugged into the switched outlet on the back of the Amp?
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25 years is the life of a capacitor
So yes it's time
Crites has caps and replacement crossovers, some with bi-amp option
Others offer similar
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3 minutes ago, Dave A said:
That is what started this whole thread was the question of can an audio analysis of the effect each different type of cap you use be done with a UMike and REW or TrueRTA. I wanted to know if that could be done and I have no idea how to set up and do just that. I was hoping for an answer there but so far no answer.
Once the audio signal hits the crossover, speaker drivers and cabinet, and all of the variables in free air, inc humidity........
Too uncontrolled for any repeatable measurement unless you have a controlled test chamber.
Tea time
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Vinyl - Record Spinning
in Lounge
Posted
ELP ish...