arco

maxg, Try SVETLANA before plunging into the NOS market... You can find them (in Greece) by visiting: www.energiaki.gr Aristidis www.aca.gr/pop_coumpas.htm

leok, May I suggest those 300B/2A3 monoblocs? I have built a pair myself, just to discover that they work wonders with Klipsch speakers, as they combine a hefty power supply (slam) with a simple Loftin-White circuit (utter refinement). Finally, they are low gain (a rarity nowadays...) and - as a result - completely noise free... You can have a look at those by visiting: www.diyparadiso.com Merry Christmas, Aristidis www.aca.gr/pop_coumpas.htm

Lynnm, If you set it too low, then no harm can be done. If the bias is set way too high, then there is the possibility that the output tubes will not be able to dissipate the extra heat, the plates will start to glow, the tube will do a major meltdown and there is a possibility of power transformer and or output transformer failure. The latter, if the failing tubes short plate to cathode. My idea is that you should try values between 90-120mA, to find your amplifier's "sweet spot". You just pay attention to the output tubes, when using the higher values: If you observe any signs of stress, turn the amp off immediately. This limit could - of course - have to do with the particular brand (or quality level...) of the EL34's you are currently using. Still, keep in mind that the more you stress a tube, the more you shorten its operating life... Hope the above helps, Aristidis www.aca.gr/pop_coumpas.htm

I think MH said it all... And, yes, you can do the mod on a CAV-50 which is nothing else than a passive version of the PV10A preamp, combined with the MV-55, in the same chassis. To be exact, you get 45W/ch and 22W/ch in pentode and triode modes, respectively (CJ specs.). Cheers, Aristidis www.aca.gr/pop_coumpas.htm

leok, In the CJ MV55-CAV50 the only thing you have to do (to wire for triode mode...) is to move - by resoldering - two jumpers and remove two small capacitors. After this simple operation, the amplifier works a treat, without any problems whatsoever... Aristidis www.aca.gr/pop_coumpas.htm

Good buy! I also owned an MV-55 (before I acquired KH's, though...) and I have been quite amazed with the sound of the amp, especially after a comparison with the big transistor CJ MF-2300... The real reason for my post is that I wanted to stress out the fact that, if you connect your EL34 pentodes in "pseudo triode" mode, you get - as MH says - even better results. Please note that the mod is CJ approved and very easy to perform, either with the help of a dealer, or by asking CJ for the relevant schematic. Aristidis www.aca.gr/pop_coumpas.htm This message has been edited by arco on 12-10-2001 at 03:00 AM

William, I think that your problem may well be solved by a good antenna contractor. What you need is a multi-element motorized directional FM antenna.

Well, lets just put things into perspective: 1) You dont really need fidelity for car crashes, thats a fact. Another fact is that when we watch a movie our full attention might be centered more to the movie, than in the accompanying soundtrack. But if we try to use an HT system for music listening, then any matching problems between system and sub(s) will tend to come out, usually blurring things. Hence the statement that you would better turn off the sub, when listening to music. 2) Now, in the case of music listening, a full range system will invariably sound better, than a restricted LF one (of similar quality...). On such a system, not only you can hear the low notes of e.g. an organ, but you also benefit of a better soundstage and fuller instrument timbre (probably because of the better management of harmonics...). Even if there is not much music content below 35Hz, a full range system will reproduce better the 35-250Hz range, that's for sure! 3) Coming to our actual problem, KH's cannot go really down because of their technology. If a basshorn is to go down to 20Hz, well it has to be enormous! No way... On the other hand, proper subwoofer matching still seems problematic to me. So, what is left is the "cheating the physics" solution. Fortunately it costs almost nothing to try and is easily reversible! Ah, you cant have everything in life, can you?

Jmon, Coming back to our main subject, I had a very interesting discussion (in another topic: see "two channel audio" then "TS OTL's & Klipsch") with Randy Bey. He said that filling half the cavity behind the woofer with fiberglass insulation, solved the problem for him.He has no need for a sub or subs anymore, as his KH basshorns go really down, now. I have heard about this mod before, but Randy is the first person coming out with such positive results. I think I will try it the day I will be in the mood to tackle all those screws again...

Nice system for your garden party! Problem is if the weather gets nasty, you must also have something similar (but much more refined...) for the living room... To discover it go to www.kharma.com, click "history" and, finally, click "grand enigma". Dream on!

Just a piece of advise, Randy! What kind of fiberglass insulation did you use? Trying to acquire some of it, I have been told that there are many different kinds, according to the final use. That is that the sound proofing insulation is different than the thermal one etc. What I have at home is the normal polyfill used to damp speaker cabinets. I was about to using it in the KH's, but then I thought to proceed directly with your "lucky solution"! So, if you can remember why you had this F.I. stock at home...

O.K. let's say its subjective, but I believe that speed=dynamics (in a speaker...) is a commonly accepted thing. I love horns exactly for the same reasons as Jmon and so I can understand the meaning of his words. Objectivists had tried in the past to spread ideas like "If a turntable turns at exactly 33,33rpm, then it sounds automatically good" or "Two amplifiers used within specs, sound the same", but reality has proved them (very...) wrong. Maybe we dont know how to correctly measure certain things or we measure the wrong things, altogether. And please do not think I'm against measurements. I still use them alot myself, when I build things. But afterwards, i.e. during the listening sessions, the proof - as they say - is in the pudding!

Forresthump, I tend to agree fully with Jmon. To tell you the truth, I dont have any scientific explanation on hand but I know from experience that different kinds of speaker designs, produce different kinds of bass. For exemple an B&W has a distinctly different bass compared to, say, a Magnepan. And horns have a bass of their own (I very much like, by the way...). It's not quantitative, its qualitative and has to do with speed, harmonic content and - eventually - other things. Fact is that the final result is easily heard and recognized, I believe.

Hi Randy, Yes, I have read about this mod (i.e. that the woofer sees a "bigger horn" that way, thus going deeper). Somehow, I've got the impression that those who tried it had rather mixed impressions. You know, the eternal story of "playing with physics" thing! As you are so positive about it, I believe I will finally try it. But please tell me: Are there any things I should know regarding the successful implementation of the mod? i.e. density of the fill, any hints on positioning etc... Thanks again

Thanks for the input Randy, I know exactly what your friend's problem was! I had exactly the same with my SUN 300B and 2A3 amps. But I have solved it by building 300B/2A3 monoblocs with very beefy power supplies and low gain (for silence of operation...), simple Loftin-White circuits. You can have a look of those by visiting: www.aca.gr/pop_coumpas.htm I have already heard KH's with the smaller 30WPC Atma Sphere and they sounded really good. A very distinctive, neutral sound that ressembles neither to tubes or transistors...And the oomph was there, all right. If I inquire on the TS OTL's is because they seem interesting technically and much cheaper also!

Hi everybody, If anyone has experience on Transcendent Sound OTL amps driving Klipsch speakers, please share... Aristidis

quote: Originally posted by James D McCall: arco, There is a lot to be said for "rolling your own", if you are talking about a very high performance sub, able to keep up with klipschorns at high levels. I would thoroughly check out this option. In the US, there are some good vendors of kits, plans and raw drivers for subs. Is that an option for you? Hi James, Well, the answer is a big yes! I quite like rolling my own and thus I have found that DECWARE provides plans for an interesting horn sub. Problem is I am hesitant to proceed with that one, as I am not really confident about their after sales support (I know, I am already a client of theirs...). If you have any other propositions, I would be really grateful to you, for letting me know. This message has been edited by arco on 11-19-2001 at 06:40 AM

quote: Originally posted by TheEAR: In europe you can buy REL subs for less,I would look at REL.Great sibwoofers and you can use a pair to get the job done.I am thinking about the new REL Q400E,it uses a very long throw driver in a sealed 16" cube cabinet.The amp is a 400W MOSFET type,the bass is tight and has plenty of punch.I think two would be plenty. The REL Q400E output is just under the Sunfire Signature,two would give you the SPL needed to keep up with the large Klipsches(when the subs cant keep up your ears will hurt from SPL). Since you have a very High-End system you should have the funds to look at the REL Studio III,even more output and bass to below 16Hz.Here too two should take care of any bass need.And I think one unit would take care of any sub bass problem. TheEAR(s) Now theears TheEAR(s) Now theears Thanks for your input THE EAR, I was also thinking of REL as my main "candidate" and then - surfing the web - I discovered that Vandersteen has a very interesting subwoofer (Model 2Wq) which could also do the job nicely and at a very good price. Any idea about this one? Finally, I am still perplexed on the issue of integrating bass coming out of two different "philosophy" enclosures...

Welcome aboard Fretshop, Just one thing that I wanted to tell you, is that you surely seem to know how this life should be lived. Being a guitar and analog Hi-Fi buff myself, I almost envy the way you spend your days... God bless you!

Hi everybody, Truth is that, before posting, I have read all posts in this topic. Nevertheless, I consider myself still in the dark...Maybe because my concern is to (try to...) integrate one or two subs in a music only system (you can see my set-up by visiting www.aca.gr/pop_coumpas.htm, noting that - with adjoining spaces the listening area is almost 900 sq feet). So, here are my questions: 1) I can see that there is a number of subs that can do music and HT, equally well. Allright, but how can these non-horn designs integrate, both tonally and speedwise, with the bass coming out of cornerhorns? It goes without saying that my wife will rather loose her temper - to say the least - if I ever try to install something like 500lt Onken-type subs... Contradicting the above, might be the fact that Ray Garrison is using LaScalas with a REL sub. 2) SVS and HSU subs you guys mostly recommend can eventually become rather expensive, if one considers the freight cost to Athens, Greece where I live. And, then, there is the after sales service problem. But I can surely find Velodyne, M&K, Paradigm, REL, Aerial and most other brands that are not of the "Direct from factory" kind. Thaks in advance for your documented opinions, Aristidis This message has been edited by arco on 11-17-2001 at 10:33 AM

quote: Originally posted by TheEAR: Aristidis, Superb system you have there!I can hear the angels sing,the Hovland preamp is a thing of beauty.WOW WOW and WOW.Now looking at your system I have nothing but great respect,a true audiophile dream. Its clear the synergy must be near perfect.And the K-Horns must impress visitors. Again thanks for the link,great system.Make that superb system. TheEAR(s) Now theears Many thanks for your kind words, THE EAR! I truly believe that achieving synergy is all there is for good Hi-Fi and - in this respect - Klipsch's Heritage line of speakers is a true DIYer's dream. I have already spent almost two years tweaking the horns and their accompanying gear and I can surely tell you that, after each and every (successful...) move, my musical pleasure reached new heights. Could I ever do this with, for eg, B&W 801's powered by...6 Krell monoblocs? Well, I rather might not! Have a good day.

Hi Colin, 1) Although I own an older Muse sub, my experience mating it with the horns was not very conclusive. Any ideas on matching the right sub(s)-i.e for music, not HT- with the KH's, will be more than wellcome. 2) Most equipement sits on black granite with 0,5cm thick cork underneath it. This combination gave me the best results overall. 3) I do prefer 2A3's! In fact, my DIY monoblocs work equally well with this tube (at the flick of a switch)and I also own a SUN SV2A3 amp. Problem is I have a rather big room and the 300B - with double the power - is my usual allround solution. Still, with music that demands it, I sometimes use a PP 6L6 amp (30W/ch) or the Plinius. 4)This is the main power transformer. There is also another, smaller one, under the chassis and dedicated to the rectifier tube (a Mullard GZ33).

Thanks Ray! Original entry has been edited accordingly...

Thanks for your kind words, both of you... Well, I can surely say I am very happy with the end result which - by the way - took me almost two years and a lot of help from this forum, to achieve.

Hi everybody, You are cordially invited to visit my Klipschorn-based system at: http://www.aca.gr/pop_coumpas.htm By also visiting the site of my audiophile club at: http://www.aca.gr/ you will be able to see another Klipschorn system as well as a host of other systems, from all over the world. Bye for now, Aristidis This message has been edited by arco on 11-13-2001 at 12:24 PM