philly0116

Not that I'm aware but maybe Philly will take some pics and document the process. I've pretty much given him everything he needs to know to do the mod. Taking the crossover out takes longer than the mod itself. I'll take some pictures and post them. It does look pretty straight forward. I ordered the resistors, they should be here in a few days.

I will and yes, I got the pictures! Thanks, again!!

Correct. It's an amazing little mod that I can take absolutely no credit for. The information was provided to me by Dean, he credited someone else for trying several different resistors until they came up with the correct value. I don't recall who he said did the leg work though. Thanks! Got them ordered and I'm gonna give it a shot!

OK! Lol. That's why I posted a pic!!

So hot glue the resistor to the board where the finger is pointing, then wrap leads underneath and solder to where the existing resistor is already soldered....that seems easy enough.

What were you trying to accomplish with the silicone? Gotcha. So it will help reduce the brightness and shrillness of the horn.

Pardon my ignorance but I would need to buy another resistor? The only bad question is the one you don't ask. You'll need one of THESE per speaker. I have always liked good sound and have never dabbled in the technical aspect of the hobby....what exactly will these resistors do for the speaker?

Pardon my ignorance but I would need to buy another resistor?

That sounds scary! Resistor mod!? I will have to do some homework.

A friend was going to toss this so I took it. The model # is on there but I cant find any info on this driver. Posting here in the off chance someone is familiar with it. Mainly curious the wattage of it and maybe what it came out of. It does not have the typical foam surround I am familiar with on CV speakers.

+1. I had a rattle on the front board of my RF-7 very recently. I clamped the speaker best I could, used the wood strips with TiteBond 2 glue and let it sit for about 18 hrs. No more rattle. Very common problem. Hot melt is what they used when they abandoned screws and it breaks down over time. If your rear board is loose all over you might have to pull it off gently and re-glue the whole thing.

No affiliation. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/ele/4489775276.html

I would buy it.

I put a Carver M1.5t, which is 350wpc, on my RF-7's and it has changed my life and the sound of the speaker. Previously I had them on a B&K ST202 at 150wpc. The Carver has plenty of power and I will never exhaust the headroom. 350wpc seems like overkill on speakers that 102db efficiency but the extra power just makes them come alive.

That's the first thing I thought of I just wasn't sure how it compared to this Bitumex that I keep reading about. That and I was not sure how important thickness of the material was.

I cant help but notice all the stuff about people applying sound deadener material to the RF-7. I watched a video on youtube as well about it. The guy on youtube used 4mm Bitumex which for the life of me I cant find in the U.S. I guess my question is how much does this improve performance and what could I use in place of that Bitumex? I thought about some spray on stuff but getting the same thickness on all sides could be difficult. Thanks!

I really appreciate the input and I agree with what your saying but but if I damage that motorboard Im up a creek!

I just talked to Mr. Wyatt. He told me the way they fixed that problem at the factory, and the way that I should fix it. Remove the drivers, get 2 x 2 pieces of wood, cut them into sections, apply glue to two sides and attach them to the front board and side board. He said that should eliminate the rattle. I will try that tonight, test the speaker tomorrow after the glue has had time to cure and then I will update the thread with whether or not it worked!!

A pair of speakers of this caliber made in 2005 should not be having this problem. Hot Melt Sucks! What ever happen to "Put the Screws To It"? I have no idea what to do. I risk damaging the entire motorboard by pulling it off. Most of it seems to be adhered well still.

Anyone have any suggestions as to how to fix a rattling front board on the RF-7? Just one side is loose but it rattles like crazy. Can I put a screw or two through the front or do I have to peel off the whole thing and glue it back?

Found! Thanks!

I recently acquired a PF15 subwoofer. Its my 2nd one and unlike my original, this cabinet is in very bad shape. Everything works but the cabinet is shot. I am going to build a new cabinet for it but Im looking for some direction. Should I build the box its original size or could I get better results if I built it bigger? It's currently 17.25" x 17.25" x 17.25". The driver is 15" and the current box is not ported. Main questions....should the current box be bigger and be ported or just build it the same as it was? Thanks for the input!

Subject says it all. If you have one laying around I need one. Will pay for it and shipping! Thanks!

Thanks for the responses. I bought these speakers from a man in Mayflower, Arkansas. The cabinets were beat up pretty good, beyond repair, in the recent tornadoes there. The components all survived somehow. I had new cabinets built out of 3/4" birch, as you can see in the photos. They have triangle braces in each corner, a brace in the middle, one in the top and one in the bottom. The cabinets were built to the same dimensions as the factory ones. I was just curious as I am putting these back together if there may have been another driver, as in the horn driver, that may have been better than the current factory one. I know selenium makes a good horn driver, just didn't know if they sounded any better than the current factory horn and driver, that's all. I was not clear that I meant the horn driver, not the woofers.