fabulousfrankie

---------------- On 11/15/2003 7:18:01 AM rmgvs wrote: I am a long-term owner of the SF-1 and just recently bought the RF3II. I am not yet convinced that the RF3 is superior to the SF-1. It has only 50 hours of playing and will be bettered, I guess, after more burning in. For now I find the bass of the RF3 more boxy and the highs more recessed, less airy. Because there is more mid-bass, the RF-3 sounds more heavy, somewhat more syrupy. Has somebody looked at the schematics of the cross-over of the RF-3? Would it be possible to give the tweeter 1 dB more output (in most cases this can be done by changing 2 resistors). Any help or comments or suggestions? Would be welcome. ---------------- I did find a little break in was useful but it only very slightly changed the character of the speakers and toned down the brightness a tiny bit. It difference was so small it could have just been my ears getting used to new speakers. What I'm trying to get at is break in will not solve your problem. I'm very familiar with the SF-1's and the RF-3's and you should notice a great improvement in sound. Maybe you should try and flip the phase on one of them in case you accidentally wired them out of phase.

Did Dan give you his ideas as to why it was bottoming?

I use an some extra RG-6 cable I had laying around and just bought some f-type to rca adapter from Radio Shack. It's 75 ohms and very well shielded so it does the job well(and cheaply).

---------------- On 12/5/2003 2:26:10 PM audionuttt wrote: I just modeled that driver and enclosure for you. Since Adire didn't post BL I derived it based on the TSP's. (13.7 Newton amps, wired in paralell to arrive at their TSPs). With a 54L enclosure, unstuffed, Fb of the box (IE impedance peak of the driver, the driver/box combo's most resonant frequency) is 32hz. Stuffing will bring this down a little, but not by much. If you don't find anything else, this is likely the reason the driver bottoms at 30hz. ---------------- But no matter what as frequency decreases the excursion increases, so it doesn't make sense that it's bottoming at 30Hz and not at lower frequencies.

How about a 54L sealed DPL12...makes sense to me. You can't run the two subs off the same amp unless you wire them for an 8 ohm load, then the total output will be ~180 watts which means each woofer is getting 90W. I highly suggest getting a second amp. Check out the 250W MCM plate amp, I got it for ~$100 shipped. I don't know how long the free shipping is going to last though.

You can try store pick up, nothing was in stock at local stores using my zip though. I know of an HTF member that recently picked one up at his local CompUSA so some do have them. ---------------- On 12/4/2003 12:02:12 PM pinipig523 wrote: frankie, are we saying that the stf-2 will be able to pound 25hz with authority? do u think that this sub is a worthy performer and i should forget about getting the svs 25-31pci (tuned to 22hz)? ---------------- If it does what Hsu claims(and they're usually honest about their claims) it should be able to do 25hz with good authority. Both subs are designed for a flat response but the SVS will still be capable of more clean output. It should come as no surprise though...more internal volume, high excursion 12"(vs the 10" in the VTF2 and STF2), bigger ports, and more power.

What's the details of the enclosure? Is it vented on the bottom or is it sealed? TheEar, The Easy Pour logo's will be gone soon...I just got the fabric to cover the beautiful logos.

---------------- On 12/3/2003 5:30:58 PM Colin wrote: At 20Hz, IF the Hsu SFT-2 is really capable of 93dB, this corresponds to Brian Weatherhead’s shake value of 3.3. Dividing the Hsu STF-2 price by this shake value gives you a wonderful price/performance ratio of 106 – which would be incredibly fantastic, compared to the other subs reviewed in the article. Therefore, I doubt the lowly STF-2 is much like the mighty VTF-2. ---------------- I think the info that the two will perform very similarly came straight from Sasha(employee of Hsu).

---------------- On 12/4/2003 11:17:50 AM DrWho wrote: Btw, were you testing the location of the sub in the very middle of the cubby? What if you tried it off to the side, tucked into one of the corners? ---------------- DrWho has a good point about the sides of the cubby hole, just moving it a little bit can make a big difference.

I put all the data on the list in a much more orgainzed format. I hope you find it easier to read...it took a long time so you better appreciate it. Instead of going back to the original post here's a link to see what it looks like. If you want to compare the looks to the old list I moved it to here. I'm not done putting in everything I want to but it has everything the old list has.

I once won a pair of KLF-30's for $790 shipped from ubid.com...I was so excited because I basically stole them. When they arrived they were so beaten up the cabinets were cracked and motor assembly's were rolling around inside the cabinet. I contacted them about it and they said they could only issue me a refund but not exchange them because they're in auction site and they don't keep regular stock(even though they had new auctions for KLF30's daily). After my begging and pleading to just exchange them I had no luck and I had took my refund but I never saw them anywhere close to that price again, I was soooo pissed.

I definitely would not use the cubby hole, that dip at 63Hz is pretty severe(~20dB down from 56Hz). You would notice a very dramatic drop in impact and even though your low bass would still be there it would lack the punch the RSW subs are known for. There is a bunch of content in the range of your dip so I don't think it's a wise idea. BTW, I've had a sub in another room with a similar sized dip centered at 63Hz as well, so I talk from experience about the dramatic drop in impact.

At the most unlikely of places I found a great deal on a subwoofer at CompUSA. Believe it or not they are selling Hsu Research subwoofers, as if that wasn't shocking enough they have it $50 cheaper than Hsu's factory direct price, this makes it $350(CompUSA is also offering free shipping on all orders over $150). This is a new subwoofer from Hsu and it is suppossed to be essentially the same as the popular VTF-2 in it's maximum extension mode(tuned to 25hz). If I was looking for a sub in this price range it would be a no brainer. To give you an idea of the STF-2's performance, you can reference the Nousaine list for the VTF-2 since those numbers were taken in the max extension mode. If the numbers are even remotely close like Hsu says they should be it makes for a great price/performance ratio. http://www.compusa.com/products/product_info.asp?sid=3FCD278050B8E17F&product_code=305934&pfp=BROWSE

Are those the raw spl numbers or corrected? It's much easier to see what's going on as a graph. Email me the excel files and I'll post the graphs. fabulousfrankie@hotmail.com

FYI, flip flopping the speaker wire going to the driver does the same thing as changing the position of the phase switch. All you need to do is keep it in the position that is the loudest response at the listening position.

I had excellent results running a sealed AV15 with a Qtc of .707. I had 750W running to it and it was wonderful for music and home theater even though it started to roll off ~30hz in my 1500ft^3(could have gone lower if it was corner loaded). One thing to keep in mind is that the rolloff of a sealed sub is not as steep as a vented/PR sub. Even though the sealed AV15 started to rolloff ~30hz I still had lots of useable output and I was only ~5-6dB down at 20hz.

The boundary cancellation effect has nothing special to do with elevating the subwoofer specifically, it happens all the time with subs placed on the floor. There's no need to move furniture out of the room. Just keep everything like it will be when you normally listen to music or watch a movie, including your main speakers playing because they will have a big impact on the low end frequency response as well.

---------------- On 12/1/2003 3:55:38 PM Diss wrote: I was hoping it would boost the bass some, but wont the measurements be diffrent since the the bass would be coming from inside a cubby hole vs from a flat wall? ---------------- What I was saying is if you put the sub where you normally sit and place the meter where the sub is going to go, the graph you get will be close to what it would be if the two were flip flopped around. Does that help?

---------------- On 12/1/2003 1:57:27 PM Orange Peel wrote: I live in Queen Creek, AZ, not sure where you are located, probably in Prescott if I were to guess Doug Drake lives in Scottsdale, a little closer than me to you, but you are more than welcome to listen to mine. I have 3 20-39's, 1 20-39 PC+ and Dual 20-39 CS's with the Samson S1000 amp. I don't think you will be dissapointed with any SVS, you can return it if you want up to 45 days, so no worries ---------------- Geez...you're like an SVS dealer. You can also try www.audioenvy.com to see if there's someone near you.

I ask because I've found that if you place the subwoofer in the listening position and you measure the frequency response at the potential subwoofer location the frequency response when the two(subwoofer and SPL meter) are switched back, the two frequency response curves mimic each other closely. If all you need are tones, then download this Excel document which will graph your frequeny response. I imagine it's easier to put the sub in your main listening position rather than above the tv, so just do that and place the SPL meter in the location you want to place your sub(set the meter to slow & c-weighted). All you need to do is download the appropriate tones from here that match the freq's on the chart. Then just play the tone and enter the number into the "RAW SPL" column and the Excel doc will automatically compensate for the meter's imprecision and creat the graph. You can see whether this would be an acceptable location without the hassle of putting the sub there first. That's what I would do before I did something permanent. If you do this I'd be interested in seeing what the graph looks like. BTW, I've had experience putting a sub in a similarly sized cubby hole in my fiancee's room and it helped boosted the low end quite a bit when compared to it's previous location which was close to midway on the front wall. I'm not sure whether it was the cubby or just because the cubby was in the corner(could have been both) but I think the boost in the low end was more dramatic than it should have been with just normal corner placement so it could be beneficial. LMK, if you have any questions on the graphing process.

---------------- On 12/1/2003 10:43:11 AM Diss wrote: I could probably place my sub in front of the tv an try that, but there no way I could place it as high as I want the new subs by my self. I dont even think I have a table around that I could try setting it on. Does elevation hurt it, if not then maybe I could take the Tv out of thehole and place my sub in there and try that? Thanks ---------------- Elevation does nothing to a sub but only experiemtation will let you know whether it works well. Do you have an SPL meter, MS Excel, and a disc with test tones or at least access to a CD burner so you can burn your own tones?

---------------- On 12/1/2003 2:23:14 AM formica wrote: The only way I'll beat you is if we consider a sub finished only once the finish has dried... in which case Fabulous Frank would have to join the club (welll.... unless the easypour monoliths are part of an advertising campaign for concrete tubes... ) what do you say?... Rob ---------------- Haha...I actually took a visit to the fabric store this morning and purchased the material to cover the tube. The lady who cut the fabric for me asked what I was buying so much fabric for, when I said to cover a speaker you should have seen the look on her face.

---------------- On 11/28/2003 9:46:19 PM fire pinch wrote: CH... de TAB... de ROUTER A M**DE!! Talk about a DOLLORAMA ROUTER!!! I Just missed one brace because of it!!! Since the beginning, I knew it wasnt so trustfull but I kept using it. Just for cuting 3/4" of thickness with that **** router, I must go by FIVE PASSES for an entire circle because the cutter is so burned LOL!!!! Can some DIYers tell me if they are able to cut one 3/4" thick hole in ONE pass with their router? I'd feel better with a new one for sure! AHHH!! I guess that for now, I'll have to live with that glitche and I'll have to continue my work with that VERY NICE and uglyfull router! Even if I cant see that 1/8" scratch (on a circle) from the outside, Im still really angry of whats happened! ---------------- I usually do 2 passes on 3/4" MDF with my $100 Craftsmen router and a Whitesid 1/4" spiral upcut bit from Woodcraft.

The Harman Kardon AVR325 is under $450 at www.onecall.com. They're an authorized dealer and very reliable.

---------------- On 11/27/2003 12:07:50 AM slowjoe24 wrote: Typo...............I mean the RW-12. The one with the new "Corner Port". Also, what is an expected price of the RW-12? ---------------- Any of the SVS would be a better performer than the RW12, but that shouldn't come as any surpise. More port area, way more internal volume, and probably a driver with more linear throw. Also add in the fact that you get more value due to the fact SVS sells internet direct and it makes it a no brainer. Like I said above, if you can tolerate the size then go with SVS.