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SemperFiAg08

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Posts posted by SemperFiAg08

  1. I bought this a few years ago for the MQA capabilities and audio clarity. I've since replaced it with a streaming kit for the whole house and don't us it anymore. The Node 1 has most of the same capabilities of the modern Nodes, except you can't pair it with a remote. The audio quality is the same, from what I understand, and you use the app to stream from most audio programs, or even from a networked harddrive, if you have it. I pretty much used it for Tidal and Pandora.

    Selling it for what I paid for it (lower than ebay). Comes with the power cable and I'm happy to walk you through setting up the app. I prefer to meet locally (Houston, TX area), but am willing to ship at your cost. Let me know if you have any questions.

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  2. SOLD - Last year I updated my tweeters to titanium diaphragms, and I kept these in case I didn't like the sound. I don't have any history on these, other than they worked when I pulled them. Only one of them isn't in perfect condition (second picture, right diaphragm), but I don't remember any of them sounding bad before removal.

     

    I'm only asking $5 each, plus the cost of shipping. I'm located on the North side of Houston, so if you're semi-local, I'm sure we can work something out.

    I'm not sure what information to list with these, but message me with any questions.

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  3. Don't stain. Stain is intended for cheaper woods to male them look nicer. I built most of my furniture with black walnut (darker than regular), and even built a subwoofer with walnut ply.

    I'd say use a semi gloss or satin finish. I haven't been very pleased with oil based compared to some of the newer water based products (I think I used sparathane from home depot).

    If you're wanting it just a little darker, go with an oiled finish that had a slight color to it. You can add as many coats as you like until it's the color you want they also make it without a tint, and it's not a bad way to finish it, either.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  4. I've kept these for a while, but don't have a need for them anymore. I built some insulated crates for some Forte 2s for my last move, and I still have the original shipping box for my Heresy 2.

     

    I'm offering them for free (Houston area), or shipping at your cost if interested. Can provide pictures if needed, but they look like shipping crates insulated with 1/2 inch polystyrene.

     

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

     

     

    • Like 3
  5. I have found that the 3e Audio TPA3255 boards really like low impedance (4Ω or even less) loads, and therefore benefit from power supplies that can deliver high current.
    I noticed that. They've got lots of juice for 2-4 ohm, but it's cut significantly at 8 (1/4 advertised power).

    I don't need a ton of power, just don't feel like paying gobs of money for TI, and these appear to be the middle ground.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  6. [mention=57014]SemperFiAg08[/mention] which 3255 boards are you using? not the TI eval board?
    I am finally getting going on a 2 channel amp using the eval board. I will be using a Meanwell switcher. I got the 600W one. I do not suffer from the anti digital crossover or anti switching P.S. meme. My ears are too old to hear any difference. Bummer about the P.S. I chose is the fan is on all the time, so this amp will be remoted to the utility closet.
    I haven't made my mind up about the boards yet. I planned on using the 3e audio boards, but they're out of stock, currently.

    I've got a TI eval board in my other amp, and love it. There's some Chinese clones of those boards (same layout, and appears to use similar parts), so I'm considering those.

    I like the 3e boards because they have 3 channel TPA3251s, which I could use for the fronts, with a 2 channel for the rears, just need to wait for them to restock.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  7. I'll be building a multi-channel amp in the coming weeks, and this question has been on my mind...linear vs switching. @twk123, which one did you go with, and would you go that route again? I already put together a TPA3255 with a linear supply and it sounds phenominal, but if I can go lighter on the PS, that wouldn't be bad.

    I'll be putting together a 5 channel receiver with TPA3255s or 51s, with individual level adjustments per channel, and a master volume control. After reading all of the recommendations, I'm leaning towards a switching PS, just wanted to see how happy you were with the results.

  8. I've decided to look for another sub amp, and I'm listing this one for sale. I recently sent my Dayton SPA500 in for service and they sent me a brand new unit, so it's still in the box. This amp has more than enough power for any sub you throw at it, but it's way too much for my living room. I can also include the walnut housing if you're interested.

     

    Link to specs:

    https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-spa500-500w-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-807

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  9. 1 hour ago, Thaddeus Smith said:

     

    That's a key thing to remember with these subs as well - I successfully ran mine off an emotiva 50 wpc amp for a while when my first plate amp died. They don't need tons and tons of power to move air.

    That's why I'm looking for less than 500W. Barely had the gain up 1/3 the way. Currently, I've got the sub plugged into the spare channel on my Rotel amp (100WPC), and it's enough, but I'd like a little headroom to drive it a bit. 200-300W should be more than enough for me.

  10. 10 hours ago, Thaddeus Smith said:

    I'm now using three of these for my system, one of which is dedicated to two tapped horn subs. It's only been a couple of weeks, so I can't give long term feedback but so far they've been really solid and sound good on my subs, LF, and HF drivers. Auto-on/off circuitry, class D, quiet, energy efficient and a small footprint.

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lab-Gruppen-E-Series-4-2-400-Watt-2-Channel-Amplifier-2x200-Watt-Free-Shipping/254518048622?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

     

    They've got some sort of dynamic power load balancing between the channels, so with one sub you'd be able to utilize the full 400W of power in the amp, which is more than plenty. I purchased from this specific seller and they shipped securely, fast, and included all of the phoenix connectors as described.

    I'll take a look at these this evening. Thanks for the rec. I'd love to do dual F20, but somehow I don't think the wife would approve...lol.

  11. On 1/23/2020 at 3:34 AM, carlthess40 said:

    Hello guys

    would the Dayton Audio TS400D-4 15" Titanic Mk 4 Subwoofer 4 Ohm work in the F20 cab?

    or a have a Dayton 12” HO  Drivers as well, well two of them lol

    Also id like to know if any of these would work the larger box  

    I'm going off of the advice of someone with way more experience in building subs....if the plans call for something, use that. If not, you'll have a bad time (they're designed for that particular driver).

  12. I built a Walnut-veneered F20 about two years ago, and while I LOVE the way the sub sounds, I've been really letdown with the amp I chose. I've been using a Dayton SPA-500 plate amp to drive it, and I've had to send it in for repairs because the amp will thump pretty regularly after the amp has warmed up (even without the source connected). I'm already not a fan of the fact that there's no way to defeat the "auto-on" and it has kicked off during movies and shows, and as soon as it comes back from repairs, it'll be listed (in case anyone is interested). I'm looking for a replacement for it, and I'd like something that's a stand alone (to appease the wife), preferably class D, 200-300W, and ideally with a 12V trigger.

    I've looked at a few options, but there's no solid reviews on anything, so here's what I've already considered, but please weigh in on these or anything else I should consider:

     

    -TPA3116 mono amplifier (ebay)

    -Monoprice SWA-200/400

    -OSD Audio SMP 200/300

    -Paradigm X-300 (used)

    I've read about Crown and similar amps, but I'm looking for something that's not overkill. 200-300W meets what I need with a sub this large. I've searched the forum, so if there's already a post, I must have not searched the right terms.

     

  13. 5 minutes ago, oldred said:

    To all,

    First let say to Jimbo ...I apologize for not following protocol . The last person I would want to offend or piss off is you. I have enormous respect for you. And have always listened to what you have to say. When I met you years ago.... at a get together.... you came in with a tube amp a Dragonfly DAC and a cell phone...and it blew me away. Before that day I had no interest in anything 2 channel...In a way I have you to thank for me spending all that money and starting my collection.

    There comes a time in every ones life when none of this really matters anymore or takes a back priority. A week or so ago I had the pleasure of meeting someone from this community and selling him (what I and my friends refer to as my children) (2 wonderful pairs)...something that I put a lot of time and effort in bringing back to beautiful condition.

    If you guys think I want to sell these things..... think again.... I am doing it now because my life has taken a major change.

    I have known you guys for 10 years....it's been a great pleasure....I am not going anywhere

     

    The only 2 things left are the:

    PSA V-1800 sub    $ 600.00

    Sunfire TGA 7201 $ 800.00

     

    Turntables are off the table....got other offers

    The Anthem ...I think is going to go to SemperFiAG08 if he is still interested ...and yes it is as good as new

     

    Later

     

     

    I am most definitely still interested in the Anthem, I was just waiting for a response via PM and we can work out the details. This will likely be my last audio purchase for a while (baby on the way this summer).

    • Like 1
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